Thank you... it's hell. It's hell on him, it's hell on my sister (she lives about an hour from them) and it's hell on my wife (who has MS and thus needs my assistance).sierrablue wrote: ↑Mon Mar 06, 2023 4:22 pm Sorry to hear about your mom. I can imagine it's hard enough seeing her go, let alone seeing what it's doing to your dad.
If you have the money (and a respirator), I'd recommend the POR-15 chassis coat stuff, which gets brushed on. It's self leveling and holds up pretty well, and it's pretty quick and easy to touch up once you've done it once.
On the steering box, since I see you're a Miata guy, I'd recommend a ZJ Grand Cherokee box. It's valved a lot tighter and has more travel.
As far as the front brakes go, assuming it's stock, it already has 3/4 ton Chevy brakes. Technically you could swap to 8-lug and get a bigger rotor (and wheels), but at that point you should get the Ford 4-piston D44 brakes. Those will stop it on a dime. But really, if you bleed the brakes and put some
braided stainless lines on it, you should be able to lock up all four wheels at 60 mph (I can and mine are the same brakes, only not power). The big advantage to rear discs is that they're lighter and more pleasant to deal with.
I think that's all I have--I don't know about all of the stuff, and it looks like most of it is just a to-do list .
Well I wish you all well, or as well as you can be.ProTouring442 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 06, 2023 6:03 pmThank you... it's hell. It's hell on him, it's hell on my sister (she lives about an hour from them) and it's hell on my wife (who has MS and thus needs my assistance).sierrablue wrote: ↑Mon Mar 06, 2023 4:22 pm Sorry to hear about your mom. I can imagine it's hard enough seeing her go, let alone seeing what it's doing to your dad.
If you have the money (and a respirator), I'd recommend the POR-15 chassis coat stuff, which gets brushed on. It's self leveling and holds up pretty well, and it's pretty quick and easy to touch up once you've done it once.
On the steering box, since I see you're a Miata guy, I'd recommend a ZJ Grand Cherokee box. It's valved a lot tighter and has more travel.
As far as the front brakes go, assuming it's stock, it already has 3/4 ton Chevy brakes. Technically you could swap to 8-lug and get a bigger rotor (and wheels), but at that point you should get the Ford 4-piston D44 brakes. Those will stop it on a dime. But really, if you bleed the brakes and put some
braided stainless lines on it, you should be able to lock up all four wheels at 60 mph (I can and mine are the same brakes, only not power). The big advantage to rear discs is that they're lighter and more pleasant to deal with.
I think that's all I have--I don't know about all of the stuff, and it looks like most of it is just a to-do list .
But, we are a strong family, always looking out for each other.
Front brakes are stock, save for the GM caliper with the larger piston.
Locking all 4 is not a good indication of stopping power. If the tires are locked, the brakes aren't doing any of the stopping.
Stopping a vehicle is, essentially, converting forward momentum into heat, then dissipating that heat into the surrounding air. When you lock the brakes, the rotors are no longer transferring the energy from forward momentum into heat, and instead, the tires are doing it. Tires are very poor transmitters of heat.
What you want is a system capable of slowing the vehicle at the peak of tire grip capability, thus transferring the forward momentum into heat and dissipating it quickly enough the rotor doesn't become saturated (causing brake fade).
I'll have to look into a rear disc kit.
Locking indicates the ability to shock the tire into losing grip. Once it's broken free, it slides much more easily as the contact patch overheats, loosing it's grip.sierrablue wrote: ↑Mon Mar 06, 2023 10:09 pm But if you can lock up all four, sure it won't be stopping, but braking power isn't your problem then. At that point you need more traction aka wider and/or stickier tires. Mine at least have really good control--they unlock as soon as you lift a tiny little bit. Is that right?
No particular issue, but stopping better is a good thing. We were just discussing how brakes work as you had expressed a common misconception (being able to lock the brakes means they are good brakes).sierrablue wrote: ↑Tue Mar 07, 2023 11:09 am I guess it's all about what you're wanting out of your brakes. They're the same as the square body brakes--any of those will bolt on. Are you actually having any brake fade from it? If so, is it possible that something is dragging or worn out? Are they bled well?
If you want to make it stop like the Miata, keep in mind that it has twice as much weight to stop, and a similar width of tire that it's trying to put that energy through. Not saying that it CAN'T be done, just that it's going to be hard to make it stop that well.
Dana 44 uses the outer bearings to locate the axle, and thus should not float.Stoffregen M-sports wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2023 7:58 amRear discs - I would stay away from rear discs. Most rear disc kits use a "flaoting" type caliper which is not designed to "float" in the way that is required for a semi-flaoting rear axle. The problem is the side-side or end play in the axle shaft. Long story short, the result is overheating pads and premature pad/rotor wear. Plus, there are no good rear disc options with a parking brake. Rear brakes do only about 25% of the braking, and drums are more than capable of handling that.
Undercoating - I use SEM tar based undercoating and it works really well. It's not as thick as some others, but I see that as a good thing. Thick undercoating can trap moisture which promotes rust. The key to successful undercoating is in the prep. You'll need a clean surface. I just did the inner rear fenders in my Cherokee and I was able to get the original undercoating off using a needle scaler, then a wire wheel to clean followed by a quick hit with a 3" DA sander and 320 grit paper. SEM etching primer first, then the undercoating. It takes time to cure, and if it's cold out, use heat lamps. The final product is great looking and resilient.
In theory, right, but the single bearing on the outer axle end is nowhere near as stable as a full floating setup with two bearings and a couple of nuts keeping it in place. Yes, I'm splitting hairs a bit. But I like things to be perfect.ProTouring442 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2023 10:19 am
Dana 44 uses the outer bearings to locate the axle, and thus should not float.
I'll check out the SEM stuff. I was thinking some sort of bed liner. Decisions...
Thanks!!
Stoffregen M-sports wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2023 10:30 am In theory, right, but the single bearing on the outer axle end is nowhere near as stable as a full floating setup with two bearings and a couple of nuts keeping it in place. Yes, I'm splitting hairs a bit. But I like things to be perfect.
As I said about bedliner, it never sticks as intended and can create pockets in which moisture can hide. The best bedliner is put on hot so it flows.
SJTD wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2023 10:54 am If you choose to use a bedliner I would avoid Raptor. I've used it in places on my Wag. It has no resilience so it chips. Seems to be urethane paint with some sort of filler like chalk or some such.
I've used Durabak and find it much better. I've got the stuff I peeled out of a roller pan several years ago and can still ball it up in my hand and it will flatten out without cracking.
I think I'd still use a real undercoating, though.