Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

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Scotty54
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Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Scotty54 »

I have fabricated a winch mount to fit into a front mounted towing receiver. The receiver mounts to the front crossmember and is supported to the pass side frame. That all looks good and I think will work fine. But I would also like a tow hook or anchor point in case I need to use a snatch block but there are few choices for mounting one. Is there any reason that I cannot include a tow hook on the actual winch mount, about 4 inches from the fairlead, under the winch mounting plate? I know I can install it there, but could this present any problems when winching? This is new territory for me.
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devildog80
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by devildog80 »

Pics of what you have will help a bunch
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Stuka »

Reading your post, it sounds like you don't have a frame tie-in on the driver side? The front cross member is not very strong. Most winch bumpers tie into the frame, and not the cross member. If using the cross member, it needs additional frame tie-ins, and I would probably add material to the front and back of it.

As for a snatch block, after market bumpers tend to have recovery points integrated into them. And as the bumper ties into the frame, the recovery points are also. Its important to remember that a snatch block effectively doubles the pulling power of the winch. So when placing the recovery point, you don't want it attached to the receiver mount that the winch is using. As that would double the load on your receiver mount. I would suggest adding your recovery hooks to the frame. And since the shackle mounts are right under the frame, you would probably need to mount them along the side of the frame. But they would only be accessible if you don't have a bumper mounted up.

If that front cross member is really re-enforced, you could put the hooks on the underside of the crossmember.

But as noted before, picts are worth a thousand words if you can show us what you have going.
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Yeller
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Yeller »

Pictures would help but I think I get what you are saying. I’d weld something like this to the bottom of the passenger frame rail. I have one of these on each side of my hidden winch mount. Lots of options available for equipment.

This will be stronger than your frame
https://www.amazon.com/Indusco-4740140 ... 297&sr=8-3
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The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Scotty54 »

No photos yet because the winch mounting plate is getting powder coated.

Stuka - I hear you on the strength of the front crossmember. The steering box made a driver's side brace more challenging but I would feel much better about more support. I had two welders approve of my setup for "simple" winching, but not buried in 10 inches of mud. With this Cherokee I intend to do nothing more than light wheeling - but sh*t happens. As for the snatch block I was thinking more of "halving" the tension on the rope but you made me realize I am also potentially doubling the capacity of the winch. That point clearly answered my original question.

Yeller - those hooks would work. My problem is anchor points are above the bumper height. But I just need to weld in a bracket to lower the position of the hook. You got me thinking.
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will e
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by will e »

Winching is rare, especially with light wheeling. (A bit of an exception is if you go wheeling alone a lot, something I do not recommend). You might be overthinking this a bit. The snatch blocks are useful when you are really stuck (direct pull) or if you are winching at an angle and need to attach one to a tree or large boulder.
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Yeller »

There is probably enough offset in the hook to clear the bumper, but if not a spacer is easy enough. A snatch block does help spread the load out.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Scotty54 »

will e wrote: Wed Jan 04, 2023 5:37 am Winching is rare, especially with light wheeling. (A bit of an exception is if you go wheeling alone a lot, something I do not recommend). You might be overthinking this a bit. The snatch blocks are useful when you are really stuck (direct pull) or if you are winching at an angle and need to attach one to a tree or large boulder.
I agree. To me it's a little extra insurance. I don't think I will ever need it but a decent winch can last a long time and span several vehicles if it is cared for. Plus, I got a great deal on it so I didn't think it was frivolous spending. But I want to mount it properly and use it correctly.
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Stuka
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Stuka »

Yeller wrote: Wed Jan 04, 2023 6:28 am There is probably enough offset in the hook to clear the bumper, but if not a spacer is easy enough. A snatch block does help spread the load out.
The issue he has is the location of the hook in your photo is right where the front spring mount is. There really isn't any room to have a hook in that area, except along the outside of the frame, but then its behind the bumper.
Scotty54 wrote: Wed Jan 04, 2023 5:23 am No photos yet because the winch mounting plate is getting powder coated.
Scotty54 wrote: Wed Jan 04, 2023 5:23 am Stuka - I hear you on the strength of the front crossmember. The steering box made a driver's side brace more challenging but I would feel much better about more support. I had two welders approve of my setup for "simple" winching, but not buried in 10 inches of mud. With this Cherokee I intend to do nothing more than light wheeling - but sh*t happens. As for the snatch block I was thinking more of "halving" the tension on the rope but you made me realize I am also potentially doubling the capacity of the winch. That point clearly answered my original question.
Most after market bumpers I have had/seen have the braces go along the outside of the frame. They will have a plate that goes from the bumper, along the frame for about a foot or so. Many will use the steering box bolts as another connection point. This acts as the frame tie-in.
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Yeller »

I forget about the spring issue since I no longer have leaf springs in the front :P
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Stuka »

Yeller wrote: Wed Jan 04, 2023 11:50 am I forget about the spring issue since I no longer have leaf springs in the front :P
Yeah I figured :P
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Scotty54 »

My problem is not yet completely resolved but this was a good thread - good info to go forward with. I appreciate everyone chiming in.
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by dodgerammit »

Gonna revive this dead thread for a bit. Have been pondering a hidden winch on my wag for several years. Don't want any visible external modifications other than a hawse fairlead on the front bumper, which will be covered by the front plate.

My thoughts would be to notch the front cross member, maybe 1 1/2" upwards and about 18" wide (after moving the brake line out of the way so as to not damage it).

The steering box would prevent a full sized unit unless it was offset. I'm looking at the overpriced 9.0rc from Warn due to compact footprint.

With the cross member notched, a winch plate would be welded to this notch, centered, with equal overhang front and rear.
This would allow the bolts plenty of room to be tightened from above (winch upside down and components clocked as needed for drainage). The winch plate would be strengthened by a lip (probably 1 1/2") on the 4 sides. To further address crossmember strength, there would be gussets from the plate angled downward to the lower frame lip. The gussets would also be welded to the crossmember.

Pictures are worth 1000 words, so a quick paint program drawing:
Image

The rubber air dam would completely hide the winch from sight. I would probably remote mount the control box on a custom bracket that attaches to one of the fog light mounts for simplicity and ease of use.

Thoughts and critiques welcome.
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Yeller »

My concern would be still clearing the radiator, I wanted mine to be that high but the radiator wouldn’t allow it. So I lowered it so the fairlead was just below the bumper. I know your truck is newer with a different bumper, just my insight from having done just what you are proposing. I came close to using a short drum winch since I have one but decided with my habits the full drum was a better option.

Sorry for the dark pic, best I could come up with.
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The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by dodgerammit »

Yeller wrote: Sat Dec 30, 2023 9:46 pm My concern would be still clearing the radiator, I wanted mine to be that high but the radiator wouldn’t allow it. So I lowered it so the fairlead was just below the bumper. I know your truck is newer with a different bumper, just my insight from having done just what you are proposing. I came close to using a short drum winch since I have one but decided with my habits the full drum was a better option.

Sorry for the dark pic, best I could come up with.
The radiator is actually way behind and above this crossmember. It is nowhere close to being in the way.
See here (first image on the page) : https://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 9&start=40
Could be the later FSJs changed something


The only thing that would need to be addressed is a brake line that runs across the rear of the crossmember to the passenger front disc.
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by Yeller »

Makes since, I was under mine this morning. Had I modified the crossmember like you are proposing it moves further ahead and clears the radiator. Mine sits behind the crossmember.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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Re: Winch Snatch Block Anchor Point

Post by dodgerammit »

Yeller wrote: Sun Dec 31, 2023 7:38 am Makes since, I was under mine this morning. Had I modified the crossmember like you are proposing it moves further ahead and clears the radiator. Mine sits behind the crossmember.
Yeah, I've seen the Jeep Cherokee of the guy who runs Bulldog Winches. It was modified very similar to the way you did yours. It has the fairlead just below the bumper in a similar fashion.

I'm thinking those gussets should be strong enough to brace the crossmember for pulling should I need to really do a pull. I could always add another set of gussets at the top of the crossmember as well. It would just be a lot harder to get to with the welder. That paint picture is from the LS swap was happening and the clip was off. The Jeep has been buttoned up for 2 years now. :lol:
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

92 Wrangler Islander 4.0/32RH/231 D30/D35 RHD
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