Harry Dawg wrote: ↑Wed Dec 29, 2021 5:47 pm
Thanks for your input Tgreese.
NP.
The carb shop near me wanted $900 for a rebuild, which sounded outrageous so I didn't pursue this route any further.
I did see where a rebuild kit was available, but after reading some folks input on that carburetor, I was under the impression that these aren't that desirable. I am not familiar with the hot air choke, and I just have my doubts about this carburetor and it's ability to preform. It most definitely had some bad gas ran through it (rancid rusty gas that got sucked all the way into the fuel filter....pic attatched) so I am wondering if it is compromised.
Yeah, that seems like a lot. Quite likely they don't want your business. There is more than one carb shop. Certainly that $900 puts you well in the range of Sniper EFI. I would go that route, if I had no other reason to stay with a carburetor. Plenty of discussion of this - pro and con - in other threads. There are other sellers that modify Rochester TBI, which makes your system all-GM except for the chip in the ECU.
The performance 2300 doesn't sound like what I need/want. Mainly just threw that one in there because I thought it was the only option for a direct bolt on. As for the Sniper EFI, that isn't exactly what I am wanting just yet, but again, it looked like a direct and easy bolt up.
Basically just thinking that if I can't figure out carb tuning then I can throw that one on there and go.
Yes, that will bolt on. It's another 2300, basically the same as what you have. There is also a 350CFM version which would be more appropriate to this engine IMO. Carburetors use vacuum as both a signal and as a power source to move and meter the fuel. A too-big carburetor cannot control the fuel accurately at low speed, and as a result must be set-up excessively rich to be drivable.
What I really like the idea of is the Motocraft 2100. It is an affordable option for me at this time, and I have heard it has decent offroad performance.
The 2100 is an excellent carburetor, and works well on the trail. However, I would expect any factory carburetor from Jeep to be set up for off-road usage. I have no personal experience with the 2300 on the 327, but I would guess it's fine in that department. The performance 2300 is meant for flat track racing, and does not work well over broken terrain (bounce) or off-angle (side hill).
The 2300 can be modified to work better on the trail. This requires some minor fab and some Holley service parts. Should be something online about this if you search. These mods would apply to your Jeep 2300 too, if something equivalent was not already done by Jeep.
One issue withe the 2100 - it is not as configurable as the Holley. It only has a few settings that are accessible externally. The jets are its own. Supposedly the Quick-Fuel power valves work, but Motorcraft valves are different from the Holley valves. Holley provides many usefule tuning parts and accessories, unlike Motorcrfat which is exclusively OEM. A new Motorcraft will be a repop from overseas.
I also like that it can be converted to a manual choke (The more simple the better for me.)
The 2300 is easier in this department. This should bolt on to your existing 2300 -
https://www.amazon.com/Holley-45-225-Ma ... 5435&psc=1 - indeed I have mixed and matched choke parts between the (Ford) Motorcraft and Holley carbs, and I suspect this kit would work on a Motorcraft too.
Most would use the Dorman kit for a 2100
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-5510 ... B000CO7CK0 - It's not ideal. The cable bracket is really flimsy, and it keeps the stepped fast idle cam of the automatic choke. Thus you need to manipulate throttle while you pull the cable, to make it idle up or down. Not as good as a genuine manual choke.
*Important* - I am under the impression that I can run a return line with this carburetor, which mine does not have.
I am assuming the mechanical fuel pump is FUBAR'd from sucking in rust, as it is plumbed before the fuel filter for some reason (see below fuel filter in photo)
I am planning to run new fuel lines and am thinking I will run an inline electric fuel pump. 4-6 PSI is what I was shooting for, is that a fair flow for a 500 CFM carb?
Mechanical fuel pumps are quite reliable when not plugged with rust. If you think you have rust in the tank, the right solution is to drop it and clean it out, possibly coating it at that time.
A filter before the fuel pump is not usual. Normal location is on top of the engine. There should be a screen (filter sock) on the end of the fuel pickup in the fuel tank that filters out any large particles. Possible that's missing. See JPSU-1 and JPFF-1 here
http://www.mtscompany.com/J-truck.htm
If you want to run a return line, I'd suggest the 3-nipple fuel filter that Jeep uses with the AMC V8s. That goes up by the carburetor, and does not depend on the carburetor type.
The later TSMs have a fuel pressure spec for their carburetors. Look in your TSM. With a carburetor you don't need much pressure - it will run from a can on the cowl, fed by gravity. BTDT.