This time while at home I got the Performer intake cleaned up and then opened up the split in the plenum divider a little (1/2"x3"). With that done I taped off the openings and painted the new intake engine color. Some people may not like to paint aluminum parts, but I'm not one of those guys. This intake was used for a while by the PO and was far from looking like showroom quality if I had left it bare after cleaning it up. Sand blasting would have made it more presentable than Iwas able to get it by hand, but my blast cabinet isn't working right now, so...
The PCV baffle was removed from the 2bbl intake and cleaned up so it could be used on the new intake. I didn't have any of the rivets to secure the baffle to the intake so I drilled and tapped the holes for 10-24 button head screws. I installed the screws with star washers and red loctite so they don't fall into the engine during operation.
The brass vacuum pieces on the rear and the temp sensor were then cleaned, polished and swapped over. The other aluminum and steel parts were painted engine color. I used three aluminum 3/8" NPT plugs to close up two unused holes on the intake and one on the back of the T-stat housing. A pipe tap helped me to get all the plugs further in their holes so they ended up flush across the top instead of being left protruding and showing threads.
The PCV valve grommet on the rear of the intake is in bad shape so I had to order a new one to replace it. Until it gets here in the mail, I just reused the old grommet by smearing it liberally with Ultra Black RTV to hold it together.
The oil fill tube was removed from the 2bbl intake and swapped over after being cleaned and painted. I used some Ultra Black around the mating surface to ensure a leak free seal.
The two port brake booster/power valve vacuum nipple near the front of the carb base was removed and cleaned next. Rather than just reinstalling it with a cap on the unneeded power valve port, I cut that nipple off. The remainiong hole was then drilled and tapped to 1/4"-24 and I installed a set screw with red locite. That's one less vacuum cap to keep track of.
The FST carb has wider metering blocks and fuel bowls than a standard Holley 4150 carb so a regular dual feed fuel line won't work on it. I took the dual feed line I had and tweaked the two bowl ends outward at the bends and then tweaked the ends back inward so the threads were inline with and perpendicular to the float bowl threads. It took a couple tries to get the ends to line up correctly, but not too difficult. The bends Imade were mild enough not to kink the hard line or crack the crome. A flexible AN style fuel line would be a lot easier to fit, but I made due with what I had available to me at the time.
The aftermarket air cleaner didn't have a provision to hook up the breather hose going to the oil fill cap, so I made one with a 90* hose barb and a pipe thread adapter. A step drill was used to make the hole in the air cleaner base and the two pieces were assembled using a couple shaped washers and more of the Black RTV to seal it all up.
The new intake was then mounted to the block with a new valley pan gasket and some RTV at the corners of the china walll gaskets. Everything else was attached to the intake and hooked up.
The valve covers were also removed, cleand up, repainted and reinstalled with new gaskets. The covers had a couple different sizes of bolt heads holding them on, so I bought a full set with matching heads from the hardware store to replace them. Iwas alsop missing about a third of the thick cresent shaped washers, so I bought 1&1/4" thick washers and made my own. You have to look pretty hard to be able to tell which are the original washers and which are the remade ones.
I have pics on my phone, but I'm on my tablet right now and about to get back on the road. I'll try to get on my phone later and edit this post to add the pics as soon as I can.
EDIT: added pics