Well, the saga of the wayward rearview is over.
Yes, it really was 82 in the shop this afternoon.
For those who don't know, I was using a battery charger to power the fuse box since I had made so many working connections, the little 7 amp power unit was overloaded. The issue was that I had power to the mirror, but it wouldn't work. I switched back to the power unit, pulled a bunch of fuses from things I know are working, and sure enough, the powers that be were right, it works.
I'm told that a battery charger is NOT the way to check stuff. So I'm back to writing down what I've checked and pulling fuses so as to not overload the power unit.
Next was something that I've really been putting off. I mean with the body on the frame, and BOTH painted, who wants to cut on the frame, close to the body.
Well, if you are going to use a 3 piece bumper, there is no choice.
Me and a little HF air metal saw worked for close to 2 hours and used 3 blades, but it's done. Now I have to paint the end and it's ready for the bumper when I get more electrical done. BTW, NO SCRATCHES ON THE PAINT!
Now for a new lesson. I got the Serehill tailgate harness. I like the remote for the rear window. So I hooked it up per instructions, except for one little detail. I wanted to use the NOS switch I got from this site.
Well, once I hooked the NOS switch up, the remotes would just make the relays in back click, but nothing else. So I called Rick. We talked and he said you have a ground short. I did have the ground hooked up like the stock switch, so I cut it off at the plug. Still shorted out. So we talked some more. He said he had a switch at home and when he got back he would look into it.
So I got to thinking. I may not be the smartest, but I can be taught. Rick gave me a lesson in grounded switches, so I pulled the switch apart, and sure enough, the ground plug on the back of the switch (the one by itself on top in the phhoto) has a ground bar inside that causes the up and down wires to be grounded to one another in the stock switch.
Once apart, I drilled out the single ground pin and that removed the ground bar inside the switch.
That is the ground on the left and the ground pin on the right. Without the ground, the switch is a positive to the up OR a positive to the down. I used some 5.5MM screws to secure the switch to the metal frame. You can just make them out holding the top of the switch to the metal bracket.
The back window now works with either the dash switch or the remote.
Here is a new one for you. ON the rear window defroster "can" (I don't know what it really does, but the defrost wires go through it) there is a single pin. What is it for?
Mine doesn't look like it was ever hooked up to anything.
I have my Hella headlights and some Superbright leds in now.
Quite pleased with them.
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