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Prolly the input bearing. Does the noise gradually stop when the clutch is depressed and the shaft comes to a stop?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Yes. Main input bearing looks ok though - I have not yet removed it from the case. The only things spinning in neutral are the input shaft and cluster gear, so it has to be there.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Seems unlikely. There's no unusual wear on the cover fingers or the TO bearing. There was free play in the pedal before I took it apart.
When I got the truck, two of the bell to adapter bolts were loose by about 1/4" and there was a gap on one side. The rubber trans mount is in two pieces. Tightening the bolts did not change the noise. I suspect that misalignment of the input with the crank caused excess wear of the main input bearing and that's what's noisy.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote:Seems unlikely. There's no unusual wear on the cover fingers or the TO bearing. There was free play in the pedal before I took it apart.
When I got the truck, two of the bell to adapter bolts were loose by about 1/4" and there was a gap on one side. The rubber trans mount is in two pieces. Tightening the bolts did not change the noise. I suspect that misalignment of the input with the crank caused excess wear of the main input bearing and that's what's noisy.
I think you're on the right track. When I did mine, the clutch seemed like it was dragging but it was the input shaft being spun by the pilot bushing in the crank. Such a small thing, but such a pain to get to!
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I'd say pocket roller bearings between the input and main shafts. Very common failure on T-18s.
One hint of this is the shifter moving fore and aft when accelerating/decelerating.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
If the rollers are rough/bad, you should feel them grind while pushing the input to the rear and turning while holding the mainshaft. Often the input bearing will get eaten up by the thrust allowing the input to move toward the main shaft causing metal shavings to further eat up the rollers.
Pulling the input is obviously the best way to verify this.
If the rollers are bad but the input bearing surface isn't, Inland Truck Parts has the rollers as part of their rebuild kits.
[EDIT] A trick to saving a beat-up input shaft was to have the inner race turned on a lathe and getting over-sized rollers. I'd have to call my Dad to see if he remembers the application for these.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
So Crown sells the pocket bearing roller by itself, easy-to-remember Jeep PN 912345. http://www.morris4x4center.com/crown-ro ... 12345.html No time to look at this more during the week - I pulled the trans Sunday afternoon and was pooped, so I did not do much more other than remove the adapters and bearing retainer. I guess I'm not a 20 yo anymore I must have gotten up and down from the garage floor 100 times.
Standing by for advice on machining the input shaft, if needed... pending results of inspection.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Ok, so I used my improvised puller to remove the bearings - worked great.
Was cheaper than a commercial puller, but still not free. The threaded rod was about $30 from mcMaster-Carr, and I used the Harbor Freight "Large Bearing Separator."
The front main bearing is the culprit. Maybe you can see the pitting on the inner race.
Hard to get a good shot of this, but if you look at the inner race, there is significant pitting. Clean the oil out of the bearing, and you can feel the roughness.
The input shaft pocket, pocket bearings and output bearing are perfect, so I'm done with disassembly.
Last edited by tgreese on Sat Jun 04, 2016 6:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.