Recovery Gear and Techniques

[Yeller]

I know many here don’t wheel but I wanted to at least see if there was interest in this discussion here, I feel it is important. In the last few years there has been some gear trends that I find useful and in some cases safer for recovery. I have been in the process of updating my recovery gear, which isn’t easy, I’ve been collecting stuff for several decades. So I’ll list the items that have changed over the years, the ones I’m working on and the reasons why. I’d love to hear some of y’all’s input and hopefully evolve into recovery techniques, which I hope it does, can’t count the times I’ve seen things happen and no one have the first clue as to what to do. Let’s start with gear.

Most can agree a winch is almost a must have. In my opinion it must have synthetic rope and not wire cable. Cable is heavy, so it is harder on you and the vehicle carrying it. Cable is also less safe, if it fails, the release of energy is violent, flying objects can maim and kill. Rope is lighter, can be handled without gloves, recommended but not required and doesn’t store near the energy of steel cable.

Winch hooks, putting it in its own category, I’ve stopped using a hook, the thimble in the end of the rope is more than sufficient. A hook is really good for nothing other than just being a bludgeoning device for the person handling the rope to beat themselves with. I’ve been bruised and bloodied by them more times than I can count. The thimble will protect the rope and give a place to insert a steel d ring shackle or a soft shackle.

Soft shackles, I’ll post pics of them. Many do not know what they are, how they work or even how to use them. I have all but replaced all of my steel d ring shackles with these. They are lighter and safer. Can be used to reach around most anything to create a recovery point. They are extremely safe and again if there is a failure it isn’t sending steel shrapnel at your head. I carry at least 3 of these. I only carry 1 steel shackle, if your recovery points are just a hole in a tab, it is still the best connection.

Snatch blocks. I’m moving away from heavy steel contraptions to a simple aluminum ring that works with a soft shackle. The aluminum ring is lighter, seeing a trend? Again less weight if there is a failure less weight equals less energy. It also makes your gear weigh less and easier to store. I carry 2 of these, still need more to complete my fleet but getting there.

Recovery strap, make sure if it is a strap it is nylon and not polyester. Nylon stretches, polyester does not. Nylon is for recovery, polyester is for tree savers. A recovery strap or kinetic energy rope are a must and need to be rated to a minimum of 20,000 pounds. 20,000 pounds! My rig only weighs 5000 why 20,000? It is a kinetic energy device, hit the end of it with momentum and you can usually extricate what is stuck in the mud and develop many times your vehicles weight in pulling power. Hung on rocks is not the place to use that kinetic energy, but stuck in the mud most definitely is.

Tree savers in many areas are required by law anytime a winch or anchor line is attached to a tree. It protects the tree from damage often saving it from dying. They are also great for going around points if rocks or other objects. I carry at least 2. They typically range in length from 6-12 feet.

Post what you carry and we can also work in some techniques. I’ll use a term from my tactical training buddies. “Amateurs talk hardware Professionals talk software.” You can have all the gear in the world but if you don’t have the know how, training, and experience to use it it just weighs you down, slows you down and is in the way.

[devildog80]

Yeller,
Looks like a good topic for discussion, as I come from the old school where you wrap the log chain through an old tire, for snatching someone out of a bad jamb.

Seems much of the modern materials can get costly, real quick, but if you know what to select could save a bunch of money.

And be much safer in the process.

Come on FSJ Team........chime in!

[Yeller]

Tire and a chain work but still not as effective as a good kinetic rope/strap.

It’s not as expensive as you might think.

Here’s some links for you. I’m spoiled with Amazon, shop enough other to make sure I’m getting a fair deal and it arrives in a day or 2.

Soft shackles
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QMMGNMS/?tag=cbama-20

Ring and soft shackle
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B6TZV8Y/?tag=cbama-20

Winch rope
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FLVX23/?tag=cbama-20

All of the above items I have purchased and used.

Kinetic ropes tend to be more expensive but priceless when used appropriately
https://www.amazon.com/Ucreative-Off-Ro ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

Of course I have a rope story:)

I used to have a Rockwell axled, 44” tired, cab truck, it weighed 6800#…. If I got burried, my best wheelin buddy had a 3200# Samurai. We’d throw on a 30’ kinetic rope, he’d back up to my bumper and hit it, he’d be in 3rd gear at the end of the strap, rarely did it take more than 1 pull to get the job done. Somewhere I have a VHS with that action happening LOL.

Have any of you ever buried your spare tire to create a winch anchor? Surely there are stories, share what worked and what didn’t.

Burying the tire worked, was a lot of work but didn’t spend the night and didn’t walk 25 miles to the nearest paved road.

[devildog80]

Yes, have heard of stories like that, and might have forgotten some of my own so many years back.

Heard one similar to yours of a fellow out wheeling one weekend with his family in their CJ, and observed many others doing the same.

One guy and his co-pilot in particular, was an avid mudder, and he was last seen on Saturday.

Sunday when the fellow with his family was packing up getting ready to leave the campground, here came the mudder out of the woods.

He had broken a bearing on his rear axle, while out in the thick of a trail somewhere, so rear axle drive was non-operative.

As it was several miles to walk out, and even worse to go back out and try to rescue his rig, he cut down a small tree and tied it up to his axle as a drag (like a wagon on the westerns).
He came driving out using front wheels only, a single rear wheel rolling along, with that tree holding up the fourth corner dragging out the back.

Got him out to the road anyway, and saved his day

[letank]

What a good idea.... in my case the snow shovel for winter travel when getting stuck offroad... along with a 0F sleeping bad and a tent... Jack up the jeep put some rocks or wood... wait overnight for the snow to freeze... and in the morning you are good to go...

2001StuckIntheSierraSS.jpg

For the cheap @ss... the come-along is a good tool... 2 are better... sorry, no pict on that one ... too busy to clear the 1 lane roadway...

I forgot new year 2001.... a toyota pick up did the job, 4cyl and carbed

[Dave Jeeper]

I've been wheeling for 32 years in Jeep Cherokee XJ's. I started with a stock vehicle, then got a lift, then a winch and then a rear locker. 4" lift and 31" tires got me all kinds of places on some tough trails. I had to winch alot. Once I got the rear locker, I didn't have to winch very often. These days I have ARB lockers front and rear and I really only use the winch to help others out of a jam. I am not doing the real hard core trails anymore but I do still get out rock crawling here in Colorado.

I still use steel cable for my winch. I have access to synthetic but steel has always worked well for me. Synthetic can degrade from excessive UV exposure and it can be damaged when pulling over exposed rough rock surfaces. Steel is almost indestructable as long as you protect it from rust and kinking/crushing from a bad wind on the winch drum. It is heavier, but my winch is permanently mounted. If I was running a removable hitch mounted winch, then I would use synthetic and the winch would still be too heavy for me to lift and install when I got stuck. Some folks have said that synthetic can get damaged by the drum if it overheats. I don't know enough to tell if that is true or not.

We have a lot of rocky surfaces and sometimes when using a snatch block on a tree to reach a stuck vehicle, the winch line will run over rocks and ledges. Steel can handle that, but I think that synthetic would be severely compromised in that situation. So, for those that prefer synthetic, more power to you. For those like myself that still find use in steel cables, we know that old tech can still work well. By the way, I always wrap a blanket around the winch line when pulling to absorb energy from the line in case of a break and if I am out of the vehicle, I stay away from the line of pull so that I won't get hit by the cable. I have winched probably 100 or more times and never had a broken cable.

Switching gears, I am wondering what people use for jacking up to change a tire. I tried using a Hi-Lift once and by the time I had jacked up the bumper enough to raise the tire, I was so high up that the jack leaned over and the Jeep slide sideways. It was so unsafe that now I only carry a factory bottle jack and a piece of plywood to rest it on now. I never have figured out why people love those farm jacks so much. Perhaps many of them have never used them or maybe I just don't know how to use them effectively.

As mentioned above, I always carry a shovel and also a bow saw for fallen trees. A recovery bag of goodies for the winch includes a tow strap, tree saver, chain, d-rings, snatch block or two, and the winch controller.

One last item for recovery: airing down tires. It will greatly increase traction. All that you need is an air gauge or quick deflators if you want to save time. Probably a good idea to carry a 12v pump for when you are done on the trail. I usually don't have to air down, but if I hit some mud or steep loose surfaces, then it is a good option. Don't air down too much though, or you could pop the tire off the bead of the rim.

Thanks for starting this thread, I'll keep an eye on it.

Dave

[Yeller]

Great stories and input guys!

I'll share my thoughts and inputs about a few questions.

Hi lift jacks are useless without a ratchet strap to hold the axle from drooping out. They can be helpful in the perfect storm in a recovery to help lift a bumper from behind a rock or an axle in the perfect notch preventing the vehicle from being pulled forward or back, other than that they are a hyped up accessory. I do carry one in one of my vehicles but mostly because it is easy in that one to mount and secure out of the way, I do carry ratchet straps to make it effective if I need it. A shovel is a worthy tool and good for all kinds of things. A saw can depend on where you wheel, with all of the beetle kill in CO it can be very worth while, but I usually just winch them out of the way.

I'll second airing down, if nothing else it makes it ride better, but there is no denying the traction benefits. I don't discuss it much because for me its automatic, I just do it. Without beadlocks, 15 pounds is pretty safe with todays radial tires, they stay on the bead better than the old bias ply tires. Even airing back up is not a critical thing unless you're looking at an 100 mile drive, anything under 30 miles I don't even give it a second thought to not air up, drive 55 or less and drive slower like its raining, its fine. Even on my Bronco with 37's and beadlocks I'll put 400 miles on it in a week at Moab and never air up over 12psi.

Another driving technique that gets overlooked too often in not using low range. Even rougher dirt roads, if I'm running under 25 I'm running low range, even if it is in 2wd with the hubs unlocked (or those with an atlas or twin stick, rear only). It adds so much control and removes stress off of the drive train. Best way to not have to do a recovery or have a breakdown is managing the stresses on you vehicle, low range is a good way to do that.

[devildog80]

Agreed that most who outfit their rigs with a Hi-lift Jack, do not know how to properly use it, and mostly there as an accessory for the "cool" look.

99% of the time, it is NOT used to change a tire, but properly used & equipped can get your rig out all sorts of tight spots.

Growing up on a farm/ranch-

Stretched more barbed wire with one, than we ever changed flat tires with it.

Used as a come-along.

Rigged right you pulled yourself out from being stuck.

Used with one on each of 4 corners to lift small buildings.

Rigged up to use as engine hoist.

Use to hold welding projects in place.

Use to hold cattle gate closed.

Use to raise roof beams for repair.

Use to jack fence posts out of the ground.

Use as a dirt tamper when placing wood posts.

The list goes on and on what these CAN be used for......properly and safely!

[Yeller]

Agreed that most who outfit their rigs with a Hi-lift Jack, do not know how to properly use it, and mostly there as an accessory for the "cool" look.

99% of the time, it is NOT used to change a tire, but properly used & equipped can get your rig out all sorts of tight spots.

Growing up on a farm/ranch-

Stretched more barbed wire with one, than we ever changed flat tires with it.

Used as a come-along.

Rigged right you pulled yourself out from being stuck.

Used with one on each of 4 corners to lift small buildings.

Rigged up to use as engine hoist.

Use to hold welding projects in place.

Use to hold cattle gate closed.

Use to raise roof beams for repair.

Use to jack fence posts out of the ground.

Use as a dirt tamper when placing wood posts.

The list goes on and on what these CAN be used for......properly and safely!

Had a nice chuckle at this reminding myself of all the things I've used one for that were on the list, most of them LOL. Changed very few tires with one. My favorite go to is remove the handle and use it for a cheater pipe/extension, you can twist off galled up wheel studs, or prybar.

[devildog80]

Agreed that most who outfit their rigs with a Hi-lift Jack, do not know how to properly use it, and mostly there as an accessory for the "cool" look.

99% of the time, it is NOT used to change a tire, but properly used & equipped can get your rig out all sorts of tight spots.

Growing up on a farm/ranch-

Stretched more barbed wire with one, than we ever changed flat tires with it.

Used as a come-along.

Rigged right you pulled yourself out from being stuck.

Used with one on each of 4 corners to lift small buildings.

Rigged up to use as engine hoist.

Use to hold welding projects in place.

Use to hold cattle gate closed.

Use to raise roof beams for repair.

Use to jack fence posts out of the ground.

Use as a dirt tamper when placing wood posts.

The list goes on and on what these CAN be used for......properly and safely!

Had a nice chuckle at this reminding myself of all the things I've used one for that were on the list, most of them LOL. Changed very few tires with one. My favorite go to is remove the handle and use it for a cheater pipe/extension, you can twist off galled up wheel studs, or prybar.

There ya go....adding to the list

[Yeller]

Time to bring this back up to hopefully prevent any of you from having the ultimate unrecoverable accident. This article has some really tragic information along with some very good proper recovery tips.

https://l2sfbc.com/drop-hitch-failure- ... 4-recovery

[will e]

That's here in Arizona. Just a shame. And so very sad.

[devildog80]

Good information, and I will be upgrading my budget for proper recovery gear, when the time comes.

Thanks Yeller for posting

[Stuka]

With information being so readily available these days, these types of things should not happen.

[Yeller]

I’ve got a small update. As has been seen in another thread I have a small wheeling issue lol. My buggy has a short drum “competition” style winch. It was well past due for a new rope. So I bought some of my favorite winch line off of Amazon, a 95’ replacement rope, some tube thimbles, and for me a new tool a fid for weaving the rope. I cut off a 36.5’piece off, installed the thimble and weaved the end back in. I then took the remaining rope and made a winch extension, I’ve only needed one a couple of times and having one would have saved me a few hours of labor so I feel it to be worthy of the effort and adding to my kit. Weaving ends or even splicing sections together is very simple, no one should fear performing themselves. I’ve used a lot of things as a needle or fid to do this in the past, pencils, pens, radio antennas, forceps, even a piece of wire. I’m not going to go into the process, there’s a bunch of YouTube videos that explain it very well from simple to extravagant. I’ve been using the simple for decades, and don’t see a need to change.

To save some too googling, here’s a link to a method that works.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0ytAvyhjUpQ

[Yeller]

Have another update that I thought I posted…..

One of the issues with using a soft shackle and a recovery ring for a snatch block is holding the rope in the groove and running the winch by yourself…. Yeah many of us go alone and that “dirt road” keeps drawing us deeper and deeper

A simple Velcro wire tie does a great job, they are simple, easy and cheap.