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As the title states, I misplaced the two bolts that hold my Bell crank bracket to the frame. I tried a 5/16 coarse thread and it didn't quite bite. Bracket was loose. Any idea on size and thread pitch? 3/8 seems too big. Really disliking the idea of modifying the holes today but considering rivnuts or just upgrading to a hydraulic clutch set up. But cheapest option is the correct two bolts.
Merry Christmas and thank you!
Blair
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1976 Cj7
1980 Cherokee S
1981 Scrambler
Did they start using metric hardware by that point? If so try 8mm maybe? If you go hydraulic don't toss that bell crank stuff out! I'll happily take that off your hands if you're just going to junk it!
The parts book gives me a number, G9424824. I'm not sure how this would have been handled in the day. Possible the dealership could order it by number from the warehouse, but I expect that would be the very most expensive option.
Jeep specifies the same number part for all the 10-20-40 models '74-80, so it's not going to be a metric part. Jeep used self-threading parts for other locations in the frame, and these have something of a tapered end ... though I'd expect a regular bolt could be used once the threads were made.
Yeah I wasn't sure if they were using metric by '80 or not. Alot of hardware on mine is fine thread and those tapered self tapping bolts you mentioned as well. I'd say try 5/16 fine thread from the local hardware store if course threads didn't work. I can't see ordering OEM hardware for 10x the price of local hardware. It's like those corvette guys that spend 150 bucks on a GM part numbered air cleaner wing nut that is no different than any other wing nut you can get for a buck lol
tgreese wrote: ↑Thu Dec 30, 2021 12:21 pm
The parts book gives me a number, G9424824. I'm not sure how this would have been handled in the day. Possible the dealership could order it by number from the warehouse, but I expect that would be the very most expensive option.
Jeep specifies the same number part for all the 10-20-40 models '74-80, so it's not going to be a metric part. Jeep used self-threading parts for other locations in the frame, and these have something of a tapered end ... though I'd expect a regular bolt could be used once the threads were made.
Excellent info thank you. Mine were tapered for sure.
Phils67 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 30, 2021 11:55 am
Did they start using metric hardware by that point? If so try 8mm maybe? If you go hydraulic don't toss that bell crank stuff out! I'll happily take that off your hands if you're just going to junk it!
I appreciate your reply, and I'll keep you in mind
Phils67 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 30, 2021 12:32 pm
Yeah I wasn't sure if they were using metric by '80 or not. Alot of hardware on mine is fine thread and those tapered self tapping bolts you mentioned as well. I'd say try 5/16 fine thread from the local hardware store if course threads didn't work. I can't see ordering OEM hardware for 10x the price of local hardware. It's like those corvette guys that spend 150 bucks on a GM part numbered air cleaner wing nut that is no different than any other wing nut you can get for a buck lol
Agreed, I have been super ill since last Sunday. Will hit Ace tomorrow.
tgreese wrote: ↑Thu Dec 30, 2021 12:51 pm
The bolts on my '77 have a 1/2" head, so it's a 5/16" shaft.
Thanks for checking on that, been ill, going to get after it tomorrow, maybe Sunday
Blair
-------------------------
1976 Cj7
1980 Cherokee S
1981 Scrambler
I grabbed a pair of 5/16 x 24 fine thread. Neither snugged tight, but much better than the others. Guess I need to consider nutserts or another option.
But I'm stuck, it doesn't appear perpendicular to the frame. Its lower at the bellhousing side.
I gave it a mild adjustment, felt little resistance behind the pedal. Got some reading to do. I got a great picture of it, I'll see if this link works