89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Area for General FSJ related chat.
Post Reply

Topic author
Southy324
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2021 5:52 pm

89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Post by Southy324 »

Noob here. Been educating for a few months. Hope to find something to invest in mechanically and use as a somewhat daily driver as I pick away at body. Found one for sale that is a good price and low miles. Wanted some insight on the condition of the frame in particular but overall body rust as well. Worth it? Too much work? Going to talk to body guy as well but would love some insight here.

Floors seem like they are solid.

Pics in this google folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

SJTD
Posts: 1933
Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 12:02 pm
Location: Lompoc, Sunland or somewhere between

Re: 89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Post by SJTD »

Hard to believe the floors are good with all that other rust. I wouldn't touch it. But I live in rust free So Kal.

How much is being asked for it?
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Topic author
Southy324
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2021 5:52 pm

Re: 89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Post by Southy324 »

Unfortunately, I am not rust-free MA. It's listed for $4K. 80K miles. I am guessing it could be had for $3k. Unfortunately, I am not rust-free MA. I have an old timer who fixes GW's and he said he can prob get the dent in the roof and a new windshield on for $1500-$1800, which I am factoring into the cost. It starts and runs but does need an oil pump.
User avatar

tgreese
Posts: 7195
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:31 am
Location: Medford MA USA

Re: 89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Post by tgreese »

Another MA resident - I have a suggestion. Find a better example in the south or west and go get it or have it shipped to MA. Used Jeeps are cheap here because everyone assumes (almost always correctly) that any car more than a few years old is rusty. The road departments use mountains of rock salt on the roads here, and the used cars show it. Plus Jeep was not the greatest in terms of rust prevention.

Frame looks ok from your pics. The usual problem area is under the driver's door, next to the gas tank. Probe from the outside with a sharp screwdriver or ice pick. Might be a good frame donor if you found one with a bad frame.

Rust repair is expensive to do right, unless you do it yourself. Even then, it takes time and special equipment and skills.

I would also point out - fixing mechanical problems is easy compared to body work. I would choose a solid body and frame over a good engine and transmission any day. Find something without rust that does not run, if you are looking for a bargain. Have it shipped to you. Or spend more up-front for a better example and save money overall.

Rust plus significant body damage - that roof damage makes it un-driveable. Significant damage. And what's with the hood and cowl? It looks like the battery exploded or something. Or a dash fire out the cowl vent? Strange. That's like a $500 parts car IMO. The interior looks nice, and it might be a good donor for restoration of another GW. Might be worth more in that case, but at $4000 they're dreaming. I would not give it a look.
Last edited by tgreese on Tue Aug 31, 2021 6:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
User avatar

tgreese
Posts: 7195
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:31 am
Location: Medford MA USA

Re: 89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Post by tgreese »

Needs an oil pump? Another red flag.

Low hot idle oil pressure is a common issue with these engines when they have high miles. No reason a 360 should have low oil pressure at 80K unless they never changed the oil. I would guess it's really 180K or 280K. Sometimes you can refurb the oil pump and restore some pressure, but it could be worn bearings or bad cam bearings. No guarantee that a new oil pump will fix low oil pressure.

I suspect it has mechanical issues too. Sorry to be so negative, but I cant change what's there.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

Topic author
Southy324
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2021 5:52 pm

Re: 89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Post by Southy324 »

I appreciate all the great information. Passed on the vehicle. Going to spend more time educating here and keep an eye out.

Topic author
Southy324
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2021 5:52 pm

Re: 89 GW - Frame / Body Condition

Post by Southy324 »

tgreese wrote: Tue Aug 31, 2021 5:45 am Another MA resident - I have a suggestion. Find a better example in the south or west and go get it or have it shipped to MA. Used Jeeps are cheap here because everyone assumes (almost always correctly) that any car more than a few years old is rusty. The road departments use mountains of rock salt on the roads here, and the used cars show it. Plus Jeep was not the greatest in terms of rust prevention.

Frame looks ok from your pics. The usual problem area is under the driver's door, next to the gas tank. Probe from the outside with a sharp screwdriver or ice pick. Might be a good frame donor if you found one with a bad frame.

Rust repair is expensive to do right, unless you do it yourself. Even then, it takes time and special equipment and skills.

I would also point out - fixing mechanical problems is easy compared to body work. I would choose a solid body and frame over a good engine and transmission any day. Find something without rust that does not run, if you are looking for a bargain. Have it shipped to you. Or spend more up-front for a better example and save money overall.

Rust plus significant body damage - that roof damage makes it un-driveable. Significant damage. And what's with the hood and cowl? It looks like the battery exploded or something. Or a dash fire out the cowl vent? Strange. That's like a $500 parts car IMO. The interior looks nice, and it might be a good donor for restoration of another GW. Might be worth more in that case, but at $4000 they're dreaming. I would not give it a look.
Thanks. Passed on the vehicle. But do you know of any speciality body shops in state that work with these wagoneers?
Post Reply