Great add. I replaced the tires yesterday and saw the front is disc and the back is drum. Is this normal for a 79?Johnzi10 wrote:Check brakes!!!
It’s a work in progress. My original plan was to do a LS swap but my complex said it was too ugly to keep in our community garage. So then I started on body work to get it looking better. They told me that was making too much mess but I could keep it if I covered it. So now the plan is to get it running so I can get it outside to do body work on. I have a neighbor that owned a body shop that is helping me with body work. I’m planning to wrap it because painting is too expensive. I put 33s on it yesterday. I just did KBS coatings rust prevention and seal on the inside. Now I have to patch the holes. I’ve got all new door panels, carpet and headline coming from BJs. Need to get seats to upholstery in July. Will did sound deadening material all over the inside.Johnzi10 wrote:Cool looking Cherokee, more pics?
Thank you!!tgreese wrote:Regarding the brakes, yes factory equipment is disks front drums rear. There is a complete '79 TSM free to read and download here https://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html Suggest you page through it cover to cover and read what's of interest.
Any new-old car when it comes to me gets all new hoses and belts. Change all fluids. Replace any ignition consumables like cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires. Esp the plug wires; no need to go fancy, but they are usually neglected to start with, and it's been in a field for more than a decade. Carburetor probably needs rebuilding - they too don't like to sit idle. Usual failures are the accelerator pump and the power valve. If you want to drive it at all, you may be stuck with a rebuild.
I would do the brakes, top to bottom. New cylinders, new master, new hoses, new hardware for the drums, new pads, new linings. Surface then measure drums and rotors, replace if out of spec. Reman calipers are ok. I'd just go through and replace everything that's consumable or can wear out. Not a place to skimp.
I don't think your plans for eventual swap will let you escape much, if you want to drive this prior to your swap.
Thanks you! Sounds like great advice!tgreese wrote:I would also point out - specific hoses are more problematic: heater hoses, fuel hoses. Buy the best heater hose you can find - Gates hose is good, and upgrade to Firewall or Green Stripe (expensive - check the stores that cater to boats or big trucks) if you can. The generic hose they sell at the chain parts stores is crap - I'd only trust it for a year maybe two. Fuel hoses under the hood, especially on top of the engine, can be trouble and potentially start a fire. Another place to get the best quality hose you can find; again, Gates is pretty good, their premium is Barricade.
Replace the short pieces of hose to the fuel filter every time you change the filter. These are a common source of engine fires. You can probably let the belts go for now, as long as they are not cracked or frayed. Being an old-school Jeeper, I change all the belts and the radiator hoses and throw the originals in some corner of the Jeep as trail spares. I'd carry a spare coil (first priority), fuel pump (second) and water pump (up to you) too - what spares to carry is a whole other discussion, and you'll find plenty of posts here and on the other Jeep forums if you search.
Thanks. I drove it 20 ft in May so I know it starts. It just struggles like it is flooded or not getting enough gas.Stuka wrote:If it has not been started in a long time, turn the engine over by hand with a socket wrench. That way if the rings are frozen, you don't break them with the starter.
Otherwise, some good into here. I would add inspecting fluids in the transmission and transfer case.
I just ordered it! Thanks!tgreese wrote:The accelerator pump diaphragm on the front of the carburetor is a common failure, and may explain the symptoms you describe. You can buy just the diaphragm from Dorman:
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-18724- ... in=keyword
Any parts store can get Dorman stuff, or it's available on Amazon or from RockAuto.
When this fails, you get no pump shot, and the engine coughs and dies when you open the throttle, like it was starved for gas (because it is).