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I’m wondering if I can simply cut out the rust, apply rust stopping agent, patch the areas from underneath with new metal and then shape it with a body filler.
I know BJs sales replacements but since they are fiberglass I’d like to keep the metal ones.
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Last edited by Jwillis on Sat Jun 05, 2021 7:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Regarding your suggested method, it depends on how long you want it to last.
The "right" repair is to cut out the rusted steel and weld-in new clean steel, then prime and paint.
Any filler you might add to smooth it must be completely sealed on all surfaces. Regular bondo is a polyester matrix mixed with talc. The talc is soft which makes shaping easy, but it is also porous. It will allow moisture and air to pass through and reach any bare steel underneath. The steel will rust and the putty will fall off.
If you use a filler, a better choice would be a filler made with fiberglass instead of talc. USC Duraglas is one brand, though there are others. No personal experience, but you can buy metal-filled fillers which may be better for this.
Any rust you don't remove is poorly attached to the steel, and it will detach and continue to rust. "Rust stopping agents" is a whole topic in itself, and you will find pages and pages to read here and elsewhere online. For some applications, the products work and are effective, some don't. I suspect there is a lot of snake oil too. Do your homework, try a few products, place your bets and take your chances.
If you going to try and restore what's there, I would suggest that you abrasive blast the areas to remove the rust. If you cut out the rust from what you show, there will be nothing left.
I'm sure you could make a repair that would last a few years this way, especially if the Jeep is garaged and kept off the street in winter. Unlikely you can be thorough enough in your prep to make it last as long as the original, unless you cut away all the rusty steel and weld-in new clean steel.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote:Regarding your suggested method, it depends on how long you want it to last.
The "right" repair is to cut out the rusted steel and weld-in new clean steel, then prime and paint.
Any filler you might add to smooth it must be completely sealed on all surfaces. Regular bondo is a polyester matrix mixed with talc. The talc is soft which makes shaping easy, but it is also porous. It will allow moisture and air to pass through and reach any bare steel underneath. The steel will rust and the putty will fall off.
If you use a filler, a better choice would be a filler made with fiberglass instead of talc. USC Duraglas is one brand, though there are others. No personal experience, but you can buy metal-filled fillers which may be better for this.
Any rust you don't remove is poorly attached to the steel, and it will detach and continue to rust. "Rust stopping agents" is a whole topic in itself, and you will find pages and pages to read here and elsewhere online. For some applications, the products work and are effective, some don't. I suspect there is a lot of snake oil too. Do your homework, try a few products, place your bets and take your chances.
If you going to try and restore what's there, I would suggest that you abrasive blast the areas to remove the rust. If you cut out the rust from what you show, there will be nothing left.
I'm sure you could make a repair that would last a few years this way, especially if the Jeep is garaged and kept off the street in winter. Unlikely you can be thorough enough in your prep to make it last as long as the original, unless you cut away all the rusty steel and weld-in new clean steel.
If patch panels were available, any body shop that was willing to do the work could repair your flares. There is too little steel there to repair that without either fabricating a patch panel, or taking some steel from a donor wreck. These Jeeps are not plentiful, and many of them have the same rust issues that yours has. Finding a patch panel donor may be difficult.
Shops exist that could make the parts you need and weld them in. Usually they cater more to repairing high-dollar cars or customs, where the effort required is justified by the budget for the project, and the rarity/value of the car. Making such panels requires a lot of skill and equipment; you'll have to search for someone that can make them and is willing to take on the work.
You could learn to make the parts and weld them in. Maybe you could find a donor that's less badly rusted and start from there. I don't see how you could repair this in steel without welding. Fiberglass maybe. The replacement flares in fiberglass are $290 each. This is short money compared to the other options.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
