Link doesn’t work , but your directions are good. I can modify the 79 bracket and make it work there. Thxmx71 wrote:The canister is mounted on the passenger side to the inner fender about halfway down the valve cover, maybe a little more towards the front. This link isn't mine, but mine is mounted where this one is. https://www.rustfreeclassics.com/images ... 0x768].JPG
My 76 only has one mechanical pump.candymancan wrote:You sure the mechanical pump is your problem. My wagoneer can sit for a week and start with 2 pumps like it always does ?
I have a Edelbrock 4 barrel conversion. I totally agree on not using rubber lines. If I ditch the mechanical and add the electric pump why couldn’t I just use the existing metal line? Appreciate the wiring comments, too. Thankstgreese wrote:Dry bowl syndrome is common for the 21xx series carburetors. It's a lot worse if you have an open element air cleaner. The later models with a flap that closes the air cleaner, and vapor recovery that's solennoid controlled for the float bowl, should be a lot better than the earlier models that don't seal.
Lots of people run an electric with a carburetor. I would not run both - why bother with the mechanical pump when you have the electric? Just one more thing to fail and pump gas into your crankcase. Typically you put the electric pump low and close to the tank, where it's protected but accessible. You also have to decide how to wire it - usually you use the oil pressure signal to cut off the fuel when the key is on and the engine is not running. Lots and lots of coverage of this online if you do your homework. Also, I would caution that long runs of rubber hose are a significant fire hazard. Not my car, but BTDT. Take the time to run hard line and use short pieces of high quality hose to connect the sections. Gates is good, available at RockAuto, or use EFI-rated hose.
tgreese wrote:Dry bowl syndrome is common for the 21xx series carburetors. It's a lot worse if you have an open element air cleaner. The later models with a flap that closes the air cleaner, and vapor recovery that's solennoid controlled for the float bowl, should be a lot better than the earlier models that don't seal.
Lots of people run an electric with a carburetor. I would not run both - why bother with the mechanical pump when you have the electric? Just one more thing to fail and pump gas into your crankcase. Typically you put the electric pump low and close to the tank, where it's protected but accessible. You also have to decide how to wire it - usually you use the oil pressure signal to cut off the fuel when the key is on and the engine is not running. Lots and lots of coverage of this online if you do your homework. Also, I would caution that long runs of rubber hose are a significant fire hazard. Not my car, but BTDT. Take the time to run hard line and use short pieces of high quality hose to connect the sections. Gates is good, available at RockAuto, or use EFI-rated hose.
very nice and clean underhood pict, here is mine on a latter yeartgreese wrote:FIFY. https://tinyurl.com/y3ljaqly
My J20's canister is in more or less that location too. I am using an XJ canister though, which requires a new mounting bracket.
candymancan wrote:You sure the mechanical pump is your problem. My wagoneer can sit for a week and start with 2 pumps like it always does ?
I likely have a carb problem, but will make sure the mechanical pump is working well first.tgreese wrote:Seems the OP thinks pumping the pedal will prime the line. If there's no fuel in the float bowls (typical dry bowl syndrome), pumping the pedal does nothing.
With a mechanical fuel pump, the only way to deliver fuel to the float bowl is by pouring it in directly, or waiting for the engine to turn over enough times that the mechanical pump sends fuel to the bowl.
Choke seems to be working fine, likely the carb.PossumJr wrote:When you say a lot of pedal pumping to pressurize the line, what does that mean? When you're starting you should only have to pump shot it a time or two to get gas into the intake, pumping the gas excessively before or during starting doesn't pressurize anything and will make starting harder.
My truck previously had an old Edelbrock on it and starting was always a pain (same issues you are experiencing) even when warmed up, I never bothered to figure out why since I slapped a new carb (used actually, converted to a 2bbl 2100 because I'm weird) on in short order, but hard starting went away after that
It's worth checking your choke operation/adjustments if nothing else (as this sounds like a possible culprit to me).
It turned out to be the same issue you had. I installed a new Edelbrock 4 barrel and it fires right up. Fooling with timing now, motor seems happiest when it’s reporting about 23 degrees, which is way too high. My brother in law found some old post about the harmonic balancer or collar slipping which gives false readings. We’re gonna investigate that next. Thanks!PossumJr wrote: ↑Wed Sep 04, 2019 7:20 am When you say a lot of pedal pumping to pressurize the line, what does that mean? When you're starting you should only have to pump shot it a time or two to get gas into the intake, pumping the gas excessively before or during starting doesn't pressurize anything and will make starting harder.
My truck previously had an old Edelbrock on it and starting was always a pain (same issues you are experiencing) even when warmed up, I never bothered to figure out why since I slapped a new carb (used actually, converted to a 2bbl 2100 because I'm weird) on in short order, but hard starting went away after that
It's worth checking your choke operation/adjustments if nothing else (as this sounds like a possible culprit to me).
Is that 23° base timing or with the vacuum advance connected?custom76 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 06, 2019 3:54 pm It turned out to be the same issue you had. I installed a new Edelbrock 4 barrel and it fires right up. Fooling with timing now, motor seems happiest when it’s reporting about 23 degrees, which is way too high. My brother in law found some old post about the harmonic balancer or collar slipping which gives false readings. We’re gonna investigate that next. Thanks!
Base, vacuum pod is shot, replacing it next weekPossumJr wrote: ↑Mon Oct 07, 2019 5:17 amIs that 23° base timing or with the vacuum advance connected?custom76 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 06, 2019 3:54 pm It turned out to be the same issue you had. I installed a new Edelbrock 4 barrel and it fires right up. Fooling with timing now, motor seems happiest when it’s reporting about 23 degrees, which is way too high. My brother in law found some old post about the harmonic balancer or collar slipping which gives false readings. We’re gonna investigate that next. Thanks!