Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

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rockosocko
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:01 am
Location: N W Mississippi 'yall

Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by rockosocko » Fri Dec 06, 2019 1:17 pm

Good afternoon.
A buddy told me of a Jeep truck on marketplace and it's just up the street kinda!
BUT.. I thought that the J4000 was a 3/4 ton? I had a '74 J10 that i parted out and made a trailer from, and that was a 6 lug drivetrain just like my 81 Cherokee.
Also, thought the 4000 was dana 60 8-lug fr/rear.


The valve covers look different than my other 360's and he states that it's a 343 (?) But the side emblems say 360. Hope it's not a Vigilante 327.

Also, it's a manual, so would that mean it's a T-18? Don't know how many different trans options there were.
With a 20 transfer case.
Hope to get out there in a couple hours. Just finished raining, so don't think I'll be under it today lol..

Can anyone give a quick tutorial on the J4000's?

Thanks for any help.
E

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Crankyolman
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Joined: Fri Apr 05, 2019 7:46 pm

Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by Crankyolman » Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:40 pm

The 4000 series was produced from 1970 through 1973. There were only 2 series those years the 2000 and 4000 series, the 2000 series meant it was a short bed 4000 meant long bed and 132" wheelbase. The gross weight designates a number not indicated on the badging because only the series is shown on the badge but the real number would be a J4500, 4600, 4700 or 4800, the 500 meaning 5,000 #GVW, 600 = 6,000 #GVW, 700=7,000GVW and 800= 8,000 GVW. The 4500 came with Dana 44s front and back, 4600 Dana 44HD front, 60 back with 5 lugs, I think the 4700 had 8 lugs but not sure, Dana 44HD front, 60 back and the 4800 a Dana 44HD front, full floating 60 in the back. The VIN can tell you exactly what it is.

Depending on the year if it has a V8 '70 would have a Buick 350, '71 could have come with a Buick 350 or an AMC 304 or AMC 360 depending on what month it was produced. In '72 the AMC 360 was the only v8 option and is designated by an N as the 8th character of the VIN #

'72 was the last of the Kaiser style dash and if it has a 360 it probably has a unique one year only water pump.

'72 and prior have single walled beds and round tail lights

In '73 the interior was changed to the later style dash, the engine was set back a little bit to allow the standard slightly longer water pump and a double wall bed like all of them after.

'72 & '73 4600 and up also use 12" drum brakes which are very difficult to find.

Transfer case should be a Dana 20 I'm not sure what manual trans they used for other years but my '72 service specifications manual says it could have come with a T-14A, T-15A or T-18

Of course a lot can happen to a truck in 47-50 years so things could be changed or swapped out and I've even seen the badges swapped onto trucks that aren't J4000s, the VIN number will tell a lot.

Speaking of VIN #s '72 and prior the Vin is located on the forward drivers door jam, in '73 it was moved to the upper left firewall.
'72 J4500


Herk
Posts: 195
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:14 pm

Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by Herk » Sat Dec 07, 2019 4:10 pm

J4700 had five lug wheels and the 12 drum brakes back to 68 or so. They're great trucks, but use a fair number of different parts compared to 74 and later. If you are looking for a truck to "upgrade" "build" or "make into a beast" you're probably better off starting with a later truck.

68-71 are pretty much the same mechanically with the AMC V8 replacing the Buick 350 engine 1971 was a phase-in year. 66-67 had Rambler 327 V8 engine but were otherwise pretty much the same otherwise. Pre-66 trucks were a bit more primitive mechanically.


Topic author
rockosocko
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:01 am
Location: N W Mississippi 'yall

Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by rockosocko » Sat Dec 07, 2019 6:17 pm

WOW guys!! Fantastic info!
I've had several older Jeeps (SJ's) and in the process of building a 96 cherokee 2wd, 2dr 'sleeper' with a 440/TF from a camper.. :D
It's one of those things that I'm kinda re-thinkin this deal. I've got several projects going on, but could use some of the parts too.
It is on the rough side, and like you were describing, has the later dash from the pics he sent me, but won't be able to see it till Monday.
He states that it's a 5-lug, but am hoping there's a Dana 60 in rear!
Might part it out.

I'll try and see if I can post pics from my phone (I'm NOT a millenial lol..) so it might take a bit.

Thank you for your efforts.
E


Topic author
rockosocko
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:01 am
Location: N W Mississippi 'yall

Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by rockosocko » Sun Dec 08, 2019 9:48 am

So, get ready for the vin when I get a pic of it tomorrow..

Thanks again.
E

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Crankyolman
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Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by Crankyolman » Tue Dec 10, 2019 1:56 pm

I can tell you if it has an AMC dash it's a '73. The advantage of a '73 is there were probably more '73 J4000s built than all previous years combined. For the most part they don't suffer from the random one year only parts the late '71-'72 suffer from. The stuff on the engines are pretty much the same as everything after '73. It has a double walled bed and a tailgate that is much easier to find and Parts tend to be more available in parts stores.

The only real disadvantage is those 12 inch drum brakes but you can convert to disc with minor modifications. Some people think the closed knuckle front end is bad, others prefer it. It still has Kaiser style suspension and it's much more difficult to make it look like a real Gladiator.
Last edited by Crankyolman on Wed Dec 11, 2019 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'72 J4500


Herk
Posts: 195
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Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by Herk » Tue Dec 10, 2019 5:42 pm

How does an original suspension make it look any less "real?"

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Crankyolman
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Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by Crankyolman » Wed Dec 11, 2019 1:03 pm

Herk wrote:
Tue Dec 10, 2019 5:42 pm
How does an original suspension make it look any less "real?"
I didn't say the suspension made it look less real. I assume that you are referring to me saying a '73 is "much more difficult to make it look like a real Gladiator". Some people seem to get all offended when I say things like that but it's true.

Suspension doesn't make it look or not look like a real gladiator, although the '74 and later suspension moves the front wheel back an inch and makes it look weird with big tires. What makes it not look like a real Gladiator are all the cosmetic changes AMC made in '73. What makes it harder to make it look like a real Gladiator is that the Gladiator ended with the Kaiser bodies. Some people think they can make a J truck look like a real Gladiator simply by installing a rhino grill but that is not the case. To make a '73 or later truck actually look like a real Gladiator you have to replace the grill with a Rhino grill but that isn't enough. You also have to replace the dash with a Kaiser era dash, steering column and steering wheel so you have the much better looking (IMHO) old school dash. You also have to change the bed out or modify it so it has a chain side tailgate and round tail lights instead of those ugly AMC lights and ugly center tailgate handle. Only then will it actually look like a real honest to goodness Gladiator and that is much harder than simply changing out the grill as you would have to do on a '70-72.
'72 J4500


Rod2
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Location: Claremont, NC

Re: Found a local J4000. What to look for/at?

Post by Rod2 » Sat Dec 21, 2019 8:42 pm

Good info, "Cranky," but as a fellow owner, let me add a little: first, the rear axle is a 60-II, which is a not a floater nor a real 60. But it does have a bigger axle diameter, according to Jim Allen, and 35 splines, so it's plenty strong. The biggest negative is the scarcity of parts like axle bearings, and brake drums. Shoes and other brake parts are available; I just replaced the self-adjuster mechanism on the right rear. The front suspension is spring over which is part plus and part minus: lifts are easier because axle is already lower, but steering is limited because of the post/outboard mount of the spring. The closed knuckle also adds to the steering limit. Here is another plus, however, the closed 44 front is considered stronger than later models by some. My signature line hints at what I've done with my stock equipped J4000
'73 J4000 'WOOD GO' 360, 2100 MC, T-18, D-20, 60-2 rear, D-44 closed knuckle front, Eaton E-lockers both, Pertronix module, AC, PS, Hydro-boost, AirLift bags front and rear, 33x15 Goodyear MTR's, Pacer 15x8 aluminum Bullet Holes, Summit line lock, 3rd brake light, tilt column from '77 Firebird

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