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It has been lifted with replacement spings. Perfectly normal. The lift requires the pinion to be rotated up to equal out the ujoint angles to prevent vibration. That is what those wedges do. Spring under front and spring over rear is also normal.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Thanks, and we found the color is Champaign, like the drink.
Looking to work on fuel tank this weekend, to get it opened up and see what it looks like inside, after sitting 10+ years.
Fill hoses were so hard they were near like cutting metal pipe, and the rest of the rubber lines connecting anything are the same. Just rock solid and crumble when cutting them away to drop the tank a couple weeks back.
Have had electric fuel pump soaking in carb cleaner (just inside with in/outs capped where it is mounted on frame), but need to address main NEG cable off battery, as PO has it grounded to A/C compressor case instead of to the block. Engine turns over, but slow with fairly fresh battery, so thinking I have bad grounding off the main NEG cable.
Lots to do, and hoping for the best, as I want to get it running to take camping and trail driving.
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
Ok, a little progress, a few more pics, and a little disappointment :/
Washed out the fuel tank, and my-my-my the crud that washed out. Used de-greaser with hot water, and color of the washout was like mustard mixed with a little barbecue sauce.......nasty, but much better now.
Sorry no pics of that process.
Took fuel sending unit apart, cleaned with some carb cleaner and soft brush, and actually have OHM readings now.
(NOTE - To open this up, TAKE LOTS OF PICS FIRST, then see the 3 metal tabs and little wire by the arm, on second pic. Little wire unhooks at the top, then can be removed. Gently bend the 3 tabs back with pliers, only till cover with part # is free from base. Do the cleaning and check for operation before re-assembly. If good, re-assemble and check again to be sure of operation.)
When I first took it out of the tank, action on moving the arm was smooth, with no readings. Now you can feel the little arm inside bump over each little wire on the resistor plate. Will calibrate before putting tank all back together and re-install. Want to know where "E" is
Cleaned up the float, sock, float arm, and tank vents with same de-greaser.
Been tickling the wiring now for 2 weekends, and still no start.....UGH!
Fuel tank still off, pending parts so just using the existing 2150 carb, filled the bowl, and no leaks.
We can hear fuel injecting into carb throats when throttle worked, so might be worth rebuilding, as it is an altitude compensator carb. Would be nice to have it going from home and up the mountains camping.
Did full trouble shooting steps on MSD system, and unable to get spark at coil. Backtracked and found 12V, then set to verify wiring to MSD.
Irregular readings and having to jiggle the key while testing, as voltage was jumping between 9 and 12V.....UGH.
Finally switched out MSD for OEM ECM/coil, and plugged back into OEM harness.
No change.....still voltage dropping, so next step is to pull under dash A/C out, and pull start switch connectors off. Clean up contact points and see what happens with voltage.
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
There is a resistance wire on the battery side of the solenoid, and it checks as good, and wired to coil.
We picked up a new OEM coil, and it is one that does not clarify to use a resistor or not, so we wired one in. Getting 9V to resistor input, but only 3V on output to the coil.
Have the 1984 schematic (V8) and printed ECM wiring directions, Mongo228's CJ7 he just went through the same thing, where he tore out the HEI and went back to ECM.
We have this wired the same as that, but still working with 1 or 2 splices the PO had in the path (so might need to do something there), but connections confirmed correct per schematic print.
Another point, we have 12.7V engine side of ECM plugs, but thinking we might have a **battery issue. Pulled from another truck, and battery only a year old, but the other truck would bleed the battery down with all the electronic crap in it.
Going to take the battery to store and have it tested. Voltage is 12.7, but cranking it struggles. Could be our weak link we are overlooking?
**Battery from 2007 Blazer that tags are expired and never gets driven. My dad had to leave it here when he flew back to ND a couple years ago, and said he was coming down last year to get it, so I bought a new battery for it. He was unable to make the trip, but still no tags. It sits!
Next step.....drop A/C vent under column, and clean up start switch.
Saw a note on another thread to look for ampmeter wiring when under there, as it could be a problem later.
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
UPDATE.....about 24 total hours into the electrical tunnel.....and stuck!
UUUUGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!
Another day trying to get spark from the new coil, and now new start switch, with same results.....nothing!!!!!
Took new coil off Wagoneer, and tried it on my CJ5.....popped right off....ok coil good!
Checked spark checking tool on CJ5.....works perfect.
Checked solenoid function on Wagoneer, against function on CJ5....same results.....its ok.
Took coil wire off Wagoneer, and tried it on the CJ5. Different wire but jammed a wrench between them and CJ5 fired right up.
WHERE'S THE DAMN BALING WIRE!!!!!!
UGH.....took apart more disintegrating loom off the wires, to make sure we are tracing through correctly, and continuity tests are valid.
Tested voltage again....ohms again......connections again.....splices again.....schematics again......tools and testers again......
Mongo228 and I are at a standstill, where it is simply time to disconnect everything factory or otherwise from the start/run function, and start building back from scratch.
No other way found out of the electrical tunnel we fell into!
Thoughts anyone?
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
Did more research and Mongo228 has an ICM wiring harness coming, which should bypass all the crap splices we found, so we will know for sure wiring is run correctly.
He had the same issue on his CJ7, and the harness was the only thing that worked to get it running.
Also going to check the pick up in the distributor....just to be sure we are covering all the bases
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
Figured out most of the spare parts that came with the truck, and got them on classifieds with pics.
(Rebuilt 360 heads, front/rear driveshafts, power steering pumps, air pumps, etc)
Washed more crud off the engine, from 18 years of sitting in the desert, and watched it wash away in the gutter.....woohoo!
New ICM wiring harness showed up, so we can bypass any possible problems with OEM wiring that has not worked yet, to get spark to the engine.
As just starting to rebuild, only getting a few short hours each weekend due to 110* weather here last 2 weeks.
Normal summer temps around 105* keeps us working only in little chunks of time :/
Only saving grace is 13% humidity
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified