83 Cherokee resto-mod

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Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

back together and looks pretty good

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I have to store outside as i have no room in garage so wrapped in moving blanked and covered with a tarp. No idea how long it would be until I would get to it sunlight starts to break it down so wanted to avoid that.

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It set there in that state until today when I unwrapped it and dropped it the shop. It was a good day.
Last edited by Laredo Matt on Wed Jul 28, 2021 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E
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FLeetFox
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by FLeetFox »

Really good progress there Matt. I like the little fence/ barricade to keep the peace I'm assuming. Keep the updates coming.

Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM

Topic author
Laredo Matt
Posts: 331
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

FLeetFox wrote: Tue Jul 27, 2021 10:51 pm Really good progress there Matt. I like the little fence/ barricade to keep the peace I'm assuming. Keep the updates coming.

Fleet Fox
Haha...Yep, was trying to be considerate of neighbors and HOA but couldn't get any proper wood panels for a temp fence given crazy pricing and shortages of lumber. Had to hack something together and didn't really look that good.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E

Topic author
Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

Here are a few more pics of the process so far and then I'll update semi-regularly as I make progress...

I did a few repairs once it was in epoxy.

passenger rear fender had a dent. Metal on both fenders was rust free so that was great.

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Decide best approach to work on the dent was to cut an access hole in the inner fender, it's double layered, and that would allow me to work it with a hammer and tools. Figured that was easy to weld back and will be covered with a liner type material anyway when done and I wouldn't have to repair exterior surface metal.

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Opps, one cut went through. After I tapped most of the dent out I had to fix with a weld.

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body worked it to get shape right and fill any minor low spots

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turned out pretty nice

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Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E

Topic author
Laredo Matt
Posts: 331
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

There were a few other low spots in some places or minor dents that needed attenion.

rear driver side quarter panel had a pretty good low spot got that taken care of

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and then there was the roof where I welded the rack mount holes shut and warped the metal :banghead: I covered all the welds with duraglass and then went to work fixing the warp spots.

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I can't say roof is perfect now but 98% anything left is subtle and I'll probably be the only one who ever notices it or things about it.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E

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Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

Final major area of work was the hood.

Nothing aggressive but from being opened and shut over the years I'm guessing it just got low spots on the front edge of the hood and then the rear hood braces on the underside created some weird transitions in the hood shape as the metal bent over them. I just softened those and it's good to go.

A few other small dings got fixed too.

Spent an entire day on hood ding repair getting it right. 3-4 light fills for each spot at least to work it up and get it right. Sanding in between each. It was so darn hot here and the glazing putty would go off so quick I had to work with small amounts and thin layers.

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Spent a few days test fitting doors (different thread on that and thanks all for the feedback), swaping hinges around, testing again...wash rinse repeat. Still not totally happy but learning to say probably good enough. For now.

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Moving forward will be one more round of block sanding then getting into the finer grits with a soft pad to prep for sealer before color and clear.

Before sealer will need to put on new seam sealer...been cleaning the old stuff out along the way from gaps around fenders, door jams, windows etc.

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and then spray in lizard skin for interior sound deadening.

I probably have at least 60-70 hrs sanding already. I know some of you have more than that. Now I can really understand and appreciate why a good paint job is so expensive. My neighbor, the former body guy, keeps telling me "matt the nicer the body gets the more the tiny imperfections will stand out".

I did take a break from body work for one day a few weeks back to do a few color spray outs on the inner front fenders. Just for fun, to keep me motivated and get some ideas.

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Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E

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Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

The thread is pretty much caught up now. I have hundreds if not thousands of more pics from work along the way. I've definitely bled on it multiple times; hands, head, arms, legs so I guess I own it.

I'll try and post updates as I make meaningful progress. Will probably be asking for some advice too (paint vs. powder coat on trim, bumpers for example). Next few weeks are going to be more sanding and prep for color which is probably 3-4 weeks away. I'm probably optimistic but going with that.

Chassis should be back in 2-3 weeks and it would be nice to get the body back on (minus front fender and core support) and free up some space in the garage. I'll still need to paint some smaller brackets but the booth can come down mostly. It will also give me a chance to get started on the body harness. I have it, gas tank, break lines and other parts all piled up in a spare room. A lot of work ahead but finishing paint and body will be a milestone and I can start checking off some smaller items while i wait for the drive-train.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E
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FLeetFox
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by FLeetFox »

Consider using Rage filler instead of duraglass, It has high quality resins and sand out smooth and easier, and don't forget to pick up a tube of icing as well. You're doing excellent body work, the icing will fill the micro holes an is so much easier to feather. Yes it's not cheap, and yes most of it ends up on the floor as dust, but it saves steps down the road and leads to an overall better finish IMO.


Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM

Topic author
Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

I'll look into the rage filler.

The nice thing for me, given this is all new, I don't have experience with a wide range of products so don't know when something is harder or easier to sand compared to other products. I just take it for what is is and sand it. Would be good to work smarter and not harder though whenever possible. That comes from experience and good advice from others I guess :)

I've been using 3M platinum plus finishing glaze...is that the same as icing? It's definitely not inexpensive and does sand easily so seems to meet that criteria at least.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E

Topic author
Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

Question - has any one done a delete / bypass of the vacuum actuator on the front dana 44? I did a search for a thread here and didn't come up with anything.

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I'm going for a clean look on the dash with electronic switching between 2WD/4Hi/4Lo. So I want to delete the manual 4Hi/Lo shifter on the trans tunnel and the under dash 2WD/4WD vacuum driven switch.

My plan is to drop in a new-ish drivetrain L86 + 10sp transmission + electronic transfer case. Still need to source it though. I'm also planning to switch hubs to manually locking. I've been told and read on threads this results in less wear on parts and some improvements in mpg although minor.

By removing the vacuum actuator and going with electronic transfer case I can simply lock the hubs when winter is here and then switch between 2WD and 4WD with via a selector switch mounted on the dash or center console.

I'll unlock hubs in spring and should be good to go unless I need to engage 4WD for some reason.

I did find a thread on offroad exchange. The last post makes it sound pretty straight forward. It's for a dodge but hoping Jeep is same. Wondered if anyone here had done it or there were thread I could read.

http://offroadexchange.com/modforums/in ... opic=903.0
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E
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FLeetFox
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by FLeetFox »

Yes the 3m glaze is "icing" as well, same stuff. I typically use evercoat brand, but partly because I tend to stick with products in the same manufacturing family to avoid any possible bad reactions. Not a rule, just a personal habit. Spread it liberally over any "bondo" patches, and overlap onto existing metal 30-50% the size of the fill area. Long block it till it's barely there. It sands extremely easy so you can go down to 400 or 600 and the edges will be all but invisible once the epoxy primer is on.

Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM

Topic author
Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

I've been working mostly on the body the last month. In parallel working to get a drivetrain all lined up

Body masked off. Still some caulking and other minor prep work before it's ready to spray

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caulking interior and taping / plugging holes in prep for Raptor undercoat

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3 coats of Raptor. Went with tinted product and added a bit of gray brown. Great product. Packaged extremely well makes it easy to work with and almost no mess to clean up. Did inner front fenders as well, you can see part of one there on the floor.

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2 coats of Lizard Skin. Also did inside doors and tailgate. A little harder to work with and quite a bit more messy but if it works as advertised, well worth it.

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Started prepping body panels for color and clear...more caulking. Doing fender panels, doors and every body panel or spot that had factory sealer, plus a few additional spots.

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started with color/clear on some body panels. First time painting a vehicle. Sparying epoxy/urethane primers has helped as I've learned (settings on gone, distance and speed) but it's still not easy. I've had a few panels come out looking really good with no runs / orange peel. Next day, runs in color on some or clear on others so have to let them dry and then sand repeat. Definitely taking longer but at least I'll be able to say I did it when it is finished. Hoping to figure it all out by the time I get to the body to eliminate resprays. Material costs matter but the amount of time is even more costly.

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Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E
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jpswapmohn
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by jpswapmohn »

You are doing great work! I need to take the same approach to my interior before finishing it. I also plan on a good undercoating, but will be while it is all together, so probably not as good an application as on a rotisserie.

You mentioned sourcing a drivetrain. If you are willing, I would like to know ballpark what you end up paying for it. I keep looking at ebay and such, but have not taken the step of calling local places that sell drop outs.

I did talk to a mechanic locally about transmission options and he recommended not going higher than a 6-speed. One opinion, but he felt the 8- and 10- speeds gave up durability for the extra gears (short version of his explanation). Of course, I think the 8- and 10- speeds come in the 2500's now as well, so I would think they would be stout enough for my use with occasional towing duties.

The L83 and L86 direct injection engines are impressive. They don't have power steering pumps, so you have to buy an aftermarket accessory set up that uses an LS water pump from what I have read. But GM just came out with the L8T 6.6L for the 3500+ trucks with hydraulic steering, so may be able to just get the bracketry from those? It would be cool to have a modern 401 (6.6) under the hood, but the drop outs are $10k+ right now. Anyway, interested in what you have learned and where you end up.
One day I will wake up and realize that my jeep is complete...one day, I just know it.
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Topic author
Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

jpswapmohn wrote: Mon Aug 30, 2021 7:27 pm You are doing great work! I need to take the same approach to my interior before finishing it. I also plan on a good undercoating, but will be while it is all together, so probably not as good an application as on a rotisserie.

You mentioned sourcing a drivetrain. If you are willing, I would like to know ballpark what you end up paying for it. I keep looking at ebay and such, but have not taken the step of calling local places that sell drop outs.

I did talk to a mechanic locally about transmission options and he recommended not going higher than a 6-speed. One opinion, but he felt the 8- and 10- speeds gave up durability for the extra gears (short version of his explanation). Of course, I think the 8- and 10- speeds come in the 2500's now as well, so I would think they would be stout enough for my use with occasional towing duties.

The L83 and L86 direct injection engines are impressive. They don't have power steering pumps, so you have to buy an aftermarket accessory set up that uses an LS water pump from what I have read. But GM just came out with the L8T 6.6L for the 3500+ trucks with hydraulic steering, so may be able to just get the bracketry from those? It would be cool to have a modern 401 (6.6) under the hood, but the drop outs are $10k+ right now. Anyway, interested in what you have learned and where you end up.
My plan was to find a low mileage L86 with 10 speed. Low mileage because oil burn issues with AFM seem to start at high miles from everything I've read on boards. 10spd because of all the issues associated with the 8spd.

I ended up finding an L8T with 6L90 + tx case. Very low miles which is a big plus. They don't have AFM on their HD vehicles so no need to spend money doing a delete or worrying about oil burn in the future. I didn't get the 10spd I wanted but the 6L90 is stout and been around a while so most of the bugs should have been worked out. Plus, as stated, it has power steering which I also plan to use for hydro boost so no need to spend more there. Because the L8T is part of the Gen V family, the guys at Novak said their standard Gen V FSJ mounts will work with this engine and mount in the OE engine mount holes with no modifications needed.

Overall, seems like a good package and should work very nicely. This is all based on reading and research. I'm not an engine guy, this is new so trying to learn as much as I can and then make at least partially informed decisions.

Now I need to get it tuned and the harness cleaned up and ready to go. Guessing that will take several weeks minimum once it gets to the tuner which should be any day. I've been doing a lot of wet sanding and respraying (poor clear skills) so it's nice to think about something else making progress while I'm stuck in ground hog paint days.

Regarding the work being good...thank you. I have to credit to Irondawg on his 1978 Chief WT - Code Name Gerald build thread. I had planned to do lizard skin based on other friends' recommendation but when I saw his build thread and how they prepped his Jeep and taped everything off before spraying I printed those pictures out and used them as a guide.

https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewto ... 3&start=40
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E

Topic author
Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

I've been trying to keep things moving forward but it's going slower than expected.

I'm having new ball joints, bushings all around and the front / rear (rebuilding drums) brakes done while I continue to focus on getting the body in paint and clear.

Dual piston vs. factory single piston calipers. They're direct OE fit which is nice, just drop on and go. Slotted and vented rotors aren't necessary but I will be doing some towing so "need" them. Together with the planned hydro boost conversion, I should have plenty of stopping power.

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I've been pushing to get color and clear on body. Doors, fenders etc. are done. I started with the roof. Trying to paint the entire body in a single shoot was too much to even try and tackle. And the drip rails are a great break point.

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Hard to tell from the previous picture with it wrapped but there is a difference between the primer and base coat. Given all primers have been various shades of gray for the last two months it's a little anti-climactic with the gray base coat but I'm still stoked about it and think it will look great when it's all reassembled with trim, tires etc.

Starting to tape off the roof. Got that all covered and then spent a few more house taping undercarriage and firewall off. Finally got the body sprayed Sunday night.

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You can see the firewall has a bit of warp. I got too much heat in the metal when I was welding in patch panels for the heater/air ducts. I decided then I wasn't going to body work and smooth it all out. It's gonna be a daily driver not a show car and it's an engine bay after all so base and few coats of clear is dressed up enough :)

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Still a few very minor runs and some orange peel in the clear I need to address but nice to have it at this state. I know the flaws in clear are due to poor technique but I've been getting better with each piece I do so focusing on the silver lining.

A lot of wet sanding ahead when it's all reassembled but for now I'm just happy to have it where it is.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E
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FLeetFox
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by FLeetFox »

Looking good Matt. Congrats on getting color on before cold. You now have all winter to cut and buff...

Fleet Fox
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TurboJ4000
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by TurboJ4000 »

Is there any particular reason you're doing the paint and body work before the drivetrain swap? Seems like inner fender and firewall modifications are very likely and would require repaint anyways?
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refinemrh
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by refinemrh »

What Willwood Brake kit are you using?

Your progress looks great. Very inspirational

Topic author
Laredo Matt
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Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

FLeetFox wrote: Sun Sep 19, 2021 9:26 pm Looking good Matt. Congrats on getting color on before cold. You now have all winter to cut and buff...

Fleet Fox
Thanks. We got another week of warm weather so I've been color/wet sanding (1200, 1500, 2000 grit) for the last 4 days. Got the body knocked out, I'd say 96% of the orange peel is gone and I'm gonna be happy with that. Hood, fenders, tailgate done as well and finally finished the last driver side door today and broke through clear at the bottom corner :banghead:

Now gotta figure a fix for that but otherwise happy. Don't really want to touch up base and re-clear the entire door but may have to. Overall feels like good progress. I'll probably wait to buff and polish until it's all back together but did do the tailgate just to see how it's going to look and love it.

Also got my Novak Gen V motor mounts and new gauge cluster so fun to get some parts in even if they aren't gonna be installed for a while.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E

Topic author
Laredo Matt
Posts: 331
Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2021 3:32 pm
Location: Washington

Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod

Post by Laredo Matt »

TurboJ4000 wrote: Mon Sep 20, 2021 7:09 am Is there any particular reason you're doing the paint and body work before the drivetrain swap? Seems like inner fender and firewall modifications are very likely and would require repaint anyways?

No special reason other just made sense to me to tear down and tackle body and paint. Never done it before so can't say it's the best approach from experience.

The jeep did have a Gen III Vortec swap previously so I'm not too worried about having enough room. I've seen a few Gen V L83/L86 swaps on various threads that didn't require mods to firewall / inner fenders. Will have to fab a new trans crossmember but hoping that's about it.

Novak has a new set of Gen V Jeep SJ mounts that fit in factory mounting location and should allow the motor to drop right in. They've done the fitment and engineering work so fingers crossed works as advertised.

I'm also a realist, and half expect to have to cut and modify some but will see. If so, I'm not too worried. Anything I need to fix will be in the engine bay or possibly trans tunnel and that's easy to weld and respray and they're hidden. If I had to make mods to exterior body panels, that would have been different.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90
GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block)
4L60E
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