Axle/suspension upgrade early FSJ

[Stuka]

Yeah, looks like they naturally want to line up farther in in the photo of them the other way, but unbolted.

[Phils67]

Just mounted each bracket with one bolt for mockup and the wheels center up quite a bit. This is with the weight on the suspension. Also on the CJ7 brackets, you can see where I lined the center of the side tab up with the edge of the old post mount. Basically drew a line parallel to the edge of the old mount and it seems like that's where it should be to me. I know people love pictures as much as I do so here's more! Done for tonight. Another graveyard shift awaits. Cant wait to get this all bolted up now and start the rear!

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[Phils67]

Yeah, looks like they naturally want to line up farther in in the photo of them the other way, but unbolted.

Inboarding them was the way to go.

[Stuka]

Yeah, looks like they naturally want to line up farther in in the photo of them the other way, but unbolted.

Inboarding them was the way to go.

Looks like it all worked out nicely.

What is your pinion angle like?

[Phils67]

Didn't get that far yet. Looks like the shaft should be ok though. I have an extended slip Tom woods for my front. Didn't try to connect it yet though

[Phils67]

I'm more worried about the rear shaft. That doesnt have alot of slip to it. May need to measure and order a new one. Going by my pic of the trfront with wheels on the ground, do you think I will clear the 34x9.50 I want to run? Those tires are like 29-30" currently. Looks like it may be a close call. Those tires aren't cheap, I dont want to gamble

[Stuka]

I have a 6" lift on my J10, my stock shaft has worked fine. It does have a lot of the slip showing, but no issues thus far.

For the tires, it depends on what wheels you are going to use. J-Trucks have the rear springs SUPER close to the tires. I have run 34x12.50 and 33x12.50 on the same 8" wide wheels. I have about 3/8" of clearance between the springs and the tire. Its super tight. A 9.50 is obviously narrower, but it comes down to wheel width, and back spacing.

I think you will be mostly ok on Diameter. You may rub the front edge of the rear fender. I cut up one of my 34's once because of this. Sliced a bunch of the lugs. My 33's however clear fine.

[Phils67]

Im just buying and running plain ol' white steelies, 16x7's. The ones in the pics are 16.5's and none of them are the same. Came with the axles when I bought them so I saved them for rollers until this project is done.

[Phils67]

Thoughts?....

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[rocklaurence]

The brackets are now backwards [it probably will work either way]. The tabs dont use the bumper mount holes but the bracket holes do center on the bottom of the frame rail--meaning the tabs should be closer to he center of the vehicle. The distance from outside of bracket to outside of bracket is 35.5". This should put the 7/16" bracket holes close to the center of the frame rail and the tabs will be offset to the center on the cross-member and two new holes will be drilled through the tabs into the Xmember [dont use the bumper mount holes].
Call me with any questions 863 397 4027

[Phils67]

It measures 35 1/8 right now outside bracket to outside bracket. The front of the spring out2out is 34 1/8, rear of spring is 34 5/8. Meaning they taper inboard at the front 1/4" on each side. If I flip the brackets again I can line them up better under the frame. My frame only uses the upper holes for the bumper bracket which doesn't line up right now because of the tabs. So you are saying I drill 2 new holes per side for the tabs then? I was assuming they used the bumper bracket holes but that makes more sense. I'll get the shackle brackets bolted up then switch them around again and update this post. Just waking up from working last night and everything is wet because it rained so I may wait til tomorrow to mess with it. Although adjusting for the 1/4" realistically could be taken up with washers since the cj brackets have a big enough gap between the shackles I would prefer to install them the way you recommend since you've already used this kit with success.

[rocklaurence]

OK, we're making progress. I see on your vehicle that it doesnt have the 1.5" holes stamped in the front cross-member [looks like yours are 1/2"]. The later frames had larger holes that allows access to the new tab holes and allows a wrench to fit through the hole to tighten the fasteners. I would recommend that you use the 1.25" hole saw to make access holes next to the FSSR tabs [after you drill the holes through the tabs and into the Xmember]. Also, before you drill the Tab holes, make sure the FSSR is straight Up and Down/square to the frame. I like to leave the 7/16" frame fasteners a little loose to allow you to square the FSSR before drilling the Tab holes. Then tighten everything up.

Note: Im referencing the 3 holes in the front xmember seen in the photos--the two holes closest to the FSSR are the ones that need enlarged to allow access to install the Tab fasteners

[Phils67]

Believe it or not I can weasel my hand between the frame and body, although its not easy, and hold the bolt so far with a stubby wrench. Rain is stopping so when it dries up some i'll be back at it.i am actually more concerned with how I plan to get my hand in the boxed area to bolt the shackle brackets.

[rocklaurence]

i am actually more concerned with how I plan to get my hand in the boxed area to bolt the shackle brackets.

Maybe another well place 1.25" access hole over each shackle mount? Keep the cutout and weld it back in when your welder is working.

[Phils67]

I want to add a few things as I work on this project...
1) when mounting the front shackle brackets, fish wire is your friend. If you dont know what that is you should google it and I highly recommend it for this project,although i didn't have any, but it is common on hitch installations and will save time and aggravation.
2) this is f'in aggravating.
3) you will find everything you ever did wrong in your chassis,suspension, and steering throughout this process
4) get good safety glasses, everything that has ever been inside your frame rails such as critters and rust will be discovered by your face no matter how clean you think your frame is
5) on the front rearward brackets, if you can manage to finger bang the bolts into place, you can just give the impact a few quick bumps and it will tighten them without using a wrench on the inside providing you use lock washers and not lock nuts. Once the bolt head has pressure you can crank the nut down. After the trial and error period these brackets will inevitably be welded. Just get them in and tight for now.
6) man trumps machine if you are patient and determined. I'm not patient but in the end, I win.
7) victory beverages after this is done, non-optional
THE BATTLE CONTINUES.
Side note: frontrearward shackle brackets are installed. Score one for the boys back home

[Phils67]

Use this frame hole to get the bolts in. Front ones are easy. Rear ones, not easy

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[Phils67]

She is on her own weight up front. This is huge to me! So what's the opinion in my shackle angle now? Too much?looks to be too much to me honestly?

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[Phils67]

Side note: I dont really care about offroad. It will see minimal.mostly streetability. If the shackles are too much I will move them. This is all trial and error for the setup

[rocklaurence]

I think your right-the shackles appear fully extended. I like then to be at the 5-oclock position. If you go past 6-oclock [7-8] the truck will ride a little rougher because the spring eye has to move away from the pivot-transferring the force into the frame. If you go past 4 o-clock, the spring has no room to expand as it compresses. Six o-clock is also good. Note: adding a longer shackle will decrease the angle of the shackle.

[Phils67]

I am going to move the shackle brackets back about an inch more and call it a day. I'll line the tab up with the edge of the post mount and that should do it I think. Won't be until later when it warms up a little though, it's pretty cold out right now here. The shackle is about 4 o'clock right now I'd say.