Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
I am working on a 1976 jeep J20 that I bought for $300. Hasn't run in 20 years. Got her running and replaced the entire fuel system etc. Now I am looking at the frame and the rear frame behind the rear axle is pretty awful (I can stick my finger through it at places). Any kits or parts that would be easiest to use? My son and I are doing this together as he is taking a welding class.
Thanks for any help you may have!
There are no frame repair kits out there for J trucks, like the ones you see for Tacomas and newer stuff like that. New steel plate and/or sections of steel angle will probably be your best bet. Depending on where you are, going to metal retailer can be great since you get to see what they have in stock and you can pick from drops/cut offs from other orders. I'd suggest trying to buy a frame section from someone parting out a J truck but at this point, most others are rusty and rotted too.
73 J4000. 360, MC 2100, T18A, D20, stock closed knuckle Dana 44 front, 60-2 rear. Warn Lock-O-Matics, Warn/Belleview electric winch, true duals with glasspacks, old-school front diff skid plate, used 265 Toyos on 16" AR wheels.
Good suggestions above from Mr. Frame. You may want to consider fish plating the frame rails inside and out well beyond where the damage is w/ 1/4 steel. It may require removing and re-welding the spring hangers, but at least you know they'll be on solid ground. I did this procedure last year. My advice would be weld in good solid X braces before you start to minimize warpage as you heat it up. then remove when done. Last suggestion is, if your taking a class, chances are there are a few experienced welders in there perhaps seeking additional certifications. Maybe seek one of them out and ask if they'd mind a little side job for some green.
exempli gratia:
best of luck,
Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM
Thanks thats great advice! I will plan on doing that. The hangers are shot as well so I am going to need to replace them anyway. Do they sell those or do I need to fabricate them as well?
Just keep in mind they're bias ply, and high load range so they will ride rough and handle like wooden wagon wheels. Plus require tubes AND they'll be loud and bumpy until they warm up...but they are new and they exist. Deestone is decent, Thai now, but If I remember correctly it is essentially the farm, field and forest division of Firestone/ Bridgestone that was sold off years ago. Besides, a lot of the latex/rubber in all tires is sourced from Thailand plantations anyways. We have some Deestone tractor tires and they have held up well.
More useless information from the warehouse...
Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM
How do we know they require tubes? Their site doesn't say, another site selling them says they're tubeless.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I'm wondering what the T/T vs T/L meant. The site didn't splain it. Tube type and tubeless? Never noticed that before but never looked at tires like this before.
I like those 36" tall but only 10.4" wide 9.00-16's. Maybe for my Dodge next time.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.