My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

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Theduke
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by Theduke »

I just wanted to mention if you wanted to increase funds for your project, feel free to come up with some kits. I especially liked the 3d printed brake line guides and other items.
Just saying you've got at least 1 buyer interested.
Keep up the good work, I'm planning on doing the proflo4 and like what I see.
Thanks.
1989 Grand Wagoneer
AMC360 TF727 NP229
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Theduke
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by Theduke »

1989 Grand Wagoneer
AMC360 TF727 NP229

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

That's exactly the reason I started selling relays and other printed stuff! I come up with stuff for my rig and then selling those kits helps offset the costs of tools I had to buy and fuels further progress on the Jeep. I also see it as a valuable experience and a way to improve my fabrication/design skills :)

If you're interested in brake line guides - shoot me a PM! I have designed those around brake line that BJs sells, but I think it should work with any other as well (maybe with minor tweaks).

Proflo install is coming along nicely, but slower that I want it to - not enough time and weather is not really cooperating recently. I've made some progress since last post (wiring, fuel lines) - will do an update soon.
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Some progress on PF install, mostly with wiring (no pictures for now, I'll add them later):
  • Modified and installed PF4 harnesses. On the main harness I've removed battery ring terminal, relay, fuse (those would be in a fuse/relay box) and crimped a 2 pin connector to connect to the box, shortened ground connection, shortened lead to fuel sump (it was about 3-4 feet too long) and removed intermediate WeatherPack connector, taped wires around ECU connector. Also redirected some leads (sump, power) to face toward the front while the rest of harness is going toward firewall
  • Removed whole factory harness from bulkhead towards the engine, got rid of all wires/connectors that are not needed anymore like carb/emissions stuff (choke heater, oil switch connector, carb bowl and throttle solenoids), ignition (duraspark box and coil bracket). Put everything in new corrugated looms and rerouted it away from exhaust heat on pass side.
  • As I didn't want to pull al lights wiring out, I decided to cut everything going along drivers fender (horn, windshield washer pump, park/turn signals) and crimped MetriPack connectors there. I guess I just like modular designs better. Turned out less neat than I wanted, but some of it will be covered by cruise control unit later. Same for original temp and oil sensors and AC clutch signal.
  • Installed fuel sump and made fuel lines. I'm not a big fan of "twist lok" AN fittings - after couple failed attempts to get hose on it I realized that you really need lube the barb and heat up the hose, almost to the point where a bit of smoke is visible. After that revelation everything went better :)
  • I moved fuel fitting with sensor to the drivers side rail, but with distributor in it became obvious that I cant fit a straight fitting there anymore. 90 degree 6-AN male to female elbow saved the day, hopefully it won't leak.
  • After couple attempts got a correct size bolt (1/2-13, 1/2 length) for new coil bracket and new capacitor. Put spark plug wires on, and crimped coil-to-distributor wire
So now it's few wires to connect here and there, put a timing tape on balancer, fill up fuel sump and try to start the engine. Maybe even this weekend, if I'm lucky :)

UPD: Couple pictures to illustrate

Here is where I cut factory harness and added some connectors:

Image

Looks messy, but it'll be more organized and half covered by cruise control unit anyway.

New coil, capacitor and bracket (didn't notice that bracket is angled until I installed it). You can also see sub-harness for temp and oil pressure senders and AC clutch - I didn't know exact length for some wires and decided to terminate it with a 3 pin connector. Still need to crimp terminals for oil pressure and AC clutch (blue and orange wires, I'm trying to be as close to factory colors as I can)

Image

Overview of the engine, looks more or less complete :)

Image
Last edited by sirrus on Fri Mar 05, 2021 5:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

letank
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer Brake line

Post by letank »

I always enjoy seeing your progress, but was wondering about your front brake line routing issue

Image

When I installed my longer brake lines, I faced the same close call, but somehow I managed to route the line to stay up, to prevent the line from staying away from the turning tire and also allowing a full extension without tearing the brake line.

I need to find pictures, it was a long time ago, I remember adding an extra layer of rubber hose as you did.

Here we go, yes it seems close, but worked

Image
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Thanks letank! I think in my case the shape that hose took during storage or slight twist during installation contributed to the issue (braided SS hoses are a bit more springy than rubber). Maybe if I loosened banjo bolt and the other end I could force it into more proper shape. I also know that most people just zip tie it to the shock and it solves the problem. But I couldn't miss the opportunity to over-engineer something :)

On the different topic, went to check couple things on the Jeep and found that half (two in the middle, both sides) of intake bolts were barely finger tight. I could swear I tightened all of them with torque wrench when I put intake on and haven't touched them since - so either I'm getting memory lapses or they mysteriously loosened by themselves? Another reason to double check everything before putting coolant in I guess...
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Next step after starting the engine will be attaching throttle cable, TV linkage and installing cruise control - so I'm doing some research in advance to possibly get all parts by the time I'll need them. Like it ever happens like that...

PF4 is relatively new system, and within PF4 there are 2 throttle body styles - early #3878 (I don't think they even sell it anymore) and late #4150, easily distinguishable by amount of vacuum ports, 3878 TB has 2 ports (1 on the front, 1 on the back) and 4150 has 5 (2 front, 2 back and 1 on the pass side). That means there is not a lot of brackets/linkages out there that are proven to work with PF4 and clear intake, TB and fuel rails. As I understand, various Edelbrock geometry correctors for throttle and TV linkage originally intended for Edelbrock carbs are not really bolt-on for PF4 TB.

Now back to my situation - it seems that I can make stock throttle cable work, however it is a bit worn and tends to stick from time to time. Factory TV linkage doesn't clear intake or fuel crossover between the rails in the back and would definitely require some fabrication. Plastic bushings in the linkage are quite tired and the whole thing is rather wobbly. Cruise control (I'll be using Dakota Digital CRS-2000, which I believe is just rebranded Rostra 250-1223 kit) is sorta universal, but will also require some adjustable bracketry to work.

With all that being said, I started looking at Lokar cables and brackets, since a lot of people used them with great success for both throttle and TV linkage. Problem is that on Lokar website there are only 2 brackets for ProFlo systems - #TCB-40EDXT for XT-style intake and #TCB-40EDC for Victor-style like I have. Part of TCB-40EDC kit is a spacer that goes between TB and intake, rest of bracket attaches to that spacer - not ideal since I'm concerned that with extra 1/2 or 3/4 of height hood clearance will be an issue. Plus it looks like this kit is intended for older PF systems, maybe 2nd or 3rd gen.

I talked to Lokar and they suggested these parts for my setup:
  • Throttle cable #TC-1000HT - standard cable, 24" length
  • TV cable #KD-2727HT - standard kit for TF727
  • Cruise cable #CC-1601HT - replaces cable on CC unit to work nicely with the Lokar throttle cable
  • PF4 bracket #TCB-40PF4L1 - turns out Lokar just started making these brackets specifically for 4th gen PF system. It doesn't have any spacers and bolts on top of TB flange. They are available for both 3878 and 4150 TBs and each style is available for either 2 cables setup (throttle and TV) or 3 cables (throttle, TV and cruise). As of now they don't have these brackets on the site, but they are in their PDF catalog on page 91.
Ordered all 4 (and Carter P4070 pump for later) from jegs. I'm very excited that I'll be able to avoid fabricating brackets/linkages :D
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

It's alive! :shock:
I was very nervous before starting the engine and almost forgot to fill up coolant :D Surprisingly it doesn't leak anything (fuel, oil or coolant)!

Turned out diodes for ignition signal wasn't necessary, yellow wire from duraspark box has 12 volts in both run/acc and cranking - somehow I missed it before and was planning to use separate ignition and cranking signals and feed them through "towing diode" too get what I need. Now that I have four of theses laying around, maybe I'll finally make my side markers blink with turn signals.

Another thing that I've overlooked was that Edelbrock fuel sump was factory set to 58 psi and I need 43, according to PF4 map. Given where I mounted the sump (driver side fender, under overflow bottle) it wasn't very convenient to adjust the pressure as adjustment screw is on the bottom of the sump. Once set to 43 psi (with vacuum reference unplugged), engine was running way better. I was a bit surprised to see pressure drop to 33 psi on idle with vacuum reference connected, but after some self-education about differential fuel pressure across injectors it looks correct with 17 inches of vacuum on idle.

Overall, there are only 3 things (base timing, fuel pressure and throttle stop) that I had to adjust the "old way", by turning screws. Everything else is set from tablet!

Engine runs very smooth, it was never this smooth with carb. Exhaust doesn't smell like gas at all, so I'm pretty confident about emissions testing later this year :)

Now I'm waiting for Lokar cables to arrive and working on a mount for cruise control unit

Image
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy
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Chubbinius
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by Chubbinius »

sirrus wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 9:19 am It's alive! :shock:
Success!
1970 1414X Wagoneer "The Pig"
-Custom Special
-Dauntless 350 V8
-D27 front/D44 rear
2006 XK (65th Ann Edition)-DD

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Chubbinius wrote: Tue Mar 09, 2021 10:34 am Success!
Absolutely! Can't wait to test drive it, however I doubt it will behave during initial self-learn stages :)

Another one day project - couple days ago I noticed familiar yellow plastic crumbles on the seat, turns out plastic pegs in the armrest were falling apart.

Year ago it looked like this (why did I even think it was a good idea to use plastic there :banghead: )

Image

Now one was gone and the other looked like this

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Found couple steel metric spacers, tapped threads inside and cut to same size. This should last longer

Image

Another reminder to myself to think ahead. Peeling vinyl off and gluing it back was a royal PITA

Image

On the positive side armrest now securely locks in the upright position
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Well, Jeep is still stationary as I'm waiting for Lokar bracket for a second month now...

In the meantime, I've got time on couple other things that I've been putting away for a while.

First is the separate relay for ACC power (like heater or AC blower, cruise control, etc.). Bussmann box has 2 power rails and I was using one as "always hot", while other was not connected. Got a 75 amp relay (75 amp is a little overkill) and wired it to power the second rail in Bussmann. Of course it has a 3D printed mount :) Removed the "ACC" busbar and mounted relay in the same location

Image

One thing that I didn't like was how exposed are power contacts of the relay - knowing myself, I'm going to drop a screwdriver or something and short them to the ground bar on the left for sure, so I added a little hood over the contacts. Doesn't fully enclose the contacts, but adds a bit of safety

Image
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

The other thing is cruise control.

Factory CC didn't work and I didn't even want to diagnose it, so I've bought CC unit from Dakota Digital last fall. Kit includes the CC box itself, speed sensor, wiring harness, some sort of bracket and bag of hardware to complete the wiring and attach the cable to throttle arm.

I didn't use the supplied bracket as I'm always to design and print one myself :) Here are couple pictures showing my own mount

Upside down
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And that's how it will be mounted.
Image

I reused one of the original CC mount holes, drilled 2 more and put M6 rivnuts in them. So CC box is mounted to the bracket by 2 screws (visible in the first pic), and then the bracket is held on the fender by 3 M6 bolts.

Here it is installed
Image

CC throttle cable is going to be replaced by Lokar one later because the supplied one would work with the rest of Lokar cables (I have Lokar throttle and TV cable). I'm waiting for CC cable to arrive (it's on the same slow boat as the bracket :)), so throttle part of CC is not connected.

Dakota Digital kit comes with it's own speed sensor that is supposed to mounted on TC output. It looks very similar to the factory inline sensor and it probably is, but I wasn't sure if new cruise would work with old sensor, and DD mentions in their instructions that some sensors output signal is too fast for the unit to handle, so I went with DD sensor included in the kit.

Here is the sensor itself (PVC tubing oon the wires is my addition)
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To mount it you first put an adapter on the TC speedometer output
Image

And then center key is inserted and sensor is attached to it with a coupler nut.
Image

I was worried that it will hit the fuel tank plate, but it clears just fine. One very smart thing about the couplers DD used there is one has the left hand threads - so you can start th threads on bot tranny and sensor sides and then tighten the couple without rotating the sensor (which you can't do because fuel tank is in the way).

I also replace the speedometer cable with the single cable, since I don't need the old inline speed sensor anymore. Unfortunately, speedo cables from BJ's do not have the firewall grommet on them, so I had to reuse the old one.

And now the wiring - I like DD products, they are high quality, but wiring is sort of substandard in my opinion (not waterproof connectors, heat shrink that falls off, wrong connector for cruise stalk and so on) and too universal (I'm not using fuse taps for power, or any taps for that matter). So I had to modify the harness just a bit - chopped off everything 6 inches away from CC unit and made my own, with GT150 and Weatherpack connectors outside and correct connectors for the inside the cab.

Image

Big 8pin GT150 has wires for CC stalk, brake switch signal and dash indicator (basically everything that goes through firewall), smaller 4pin GT150 is for connecting to Bussmann fuse/relay box and has brake signal to/from relay (more on that below) and fused power supply (ACC). Last one is 2 pin Weatherpack for speed sensor.

Here is the in-cab part of the cruise harness
Image

I used connectors for cruise stalk and brake switch from the original one, replaced inline fuse from glass tube to ATM and extended wires to reach CC unit on the fender.

Crimped GT150 terminals on the under-the-hood side of the harness
Image

Then routed through firewall and inserted into the GT150 8pin connector.

DD cruise has an optional "cruise engaged" indication output, that can provide ground to LED. I thought it was nice to have some sort of indication whether cruise is on or not, but I didn't want to add any lights to the dash. And then I remembered that there is one unused light in the instrument cluster, next to 4WD indicator.

Fun fact - there are two version of overlay for that group of lights, I'm not sure what year they changed it.

Earlier has the "4 LOCK" light. I don't know with what TC it was used, AFAIK NP229 doesn't have any electric indication of low range being engaged.
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Later years (88+ probably) have "EMISS MAINT" light. I found some info about it in 89 TSM. It was used on series 60/70 (XJ Comanche/Cherokee) and 81 (YJ Wrangler), was connected to emissions maintenance timer and would light up to indicate that it's time to replace O2 sensor or PCV valve. I guess they shared these overlays between SJ and XJ/YJ?
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Anyway, both of these are not functional on FSJ, so I decided to use "4 LOCK" as cruise indication. My GW had "EMISS MAINT" light originally, so I swapped the overlay from parts instrument cluster, swapped the pins (notice the order of lights is different) and added the wire to the round connector connector

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I was concerned whether DD unit can handle the current need for the bulb (~80 mA), especially since instructions clearly say LED, so I got some yellow LEDs from Amazon. LED used around 20 mA and was too bright, so I replaced 120 Ohm SMD resistor with 240 Ohm - current draw is 10 mA now, and I don't have a blinding yellow light in the cluster.

LED (note that resistor reads 241 instead of 121) and standard bulb
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Last part was using relay for brake switch signal - it's not really necessary for incandescent lights (they would ground just fine), but is required if you have LED tail/stop lights. I don't, but to keep my options open and prevent potential cruise disengagement when using turn signals I added the relay to Bussmann box.

Diagram of how you'd wire a relay for brake signal
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For tach signal (over-rev safety) you can use either negative coil terminal or tach signal (if you have EFI and it has tach output). I used tach signal from ProFlo ECU because it was easier to wire. And finally here is everything installed

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I only did some basic continuity checks because it was getting dark by that time, still need to set all the jumpers correctly and go through self-diagnose procedure to verify that all signals are read correctly by CC unit
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Lokar bracket and cruise cable were delivered yesterday, couldn’t wait to put it all together

Image
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Throttle and cruise adjusted fine, but I wasn’t getting enough travel for TV cable. Cut out a little “geometry corrector”
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It’s barely visible when installed and TV lever on the tranny moves all the way

Image

Hopefully I’ll have time for a test drive tomorrow, haven’t driven Jeep since February :)
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

sonoraed
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sonoraed »

Wow great write up, that would have taken me more time do than the work performed on the truck!


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Stuka
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by Stuka »

That throttle linkage is really slick!
2017 JKU Rubicon
Pevious Jeeps: 1981 J10, 1975 Cherokee, 2008 JK, 2005 KJ, 1989 XJ

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Thanks!

So far I’m in love with Lokar stuff - it is expensive, but everything is engineered and manufactured perfectly. One issue that I had was with threads on the bracket - had to run a tap through it, it’s probably a quirk of early production, they just started making the brackets for new 4150 ProFlo throttle bodies.

So desperate to drive it, but no time thanks to work :)
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

Johnzi10
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by Johnzi10 »

Can’t wait to hear how it drives!
2020 Cherokee Limited v6. Wife’s Jeep
2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo Daughters Jeep
1998 XJ Cherokee “the Ghost”
1989 Grand Wagoneer my Covid mental health medicine

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sirrus
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My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Did a very short test drive in a parking lot. Runs good, way better throttle response. I set idle at 750 and it goes a bit too fast without any throttle input. Or maybe I’m forgetting how it was 3 month ago :) Otherwise drives very well, especially with barely any self learning done.

Couple other things I noticed that I’ll have to look into:
  • After second lap around the lot idle stayed at 1300rpm and didn't want to go down to target idle (750). No idea what caused that so far
  • Pretty sure that I have at least one exhaust leak where new muffler was welded - after cold start there is a tiny puddle of water under it, which I believe to be condensation being blow out that hole. Overall exhaust sounds louder than it used to, so might be other leaks as well. Gooing to check with shop vac and soapy water. As I understand it, exhaust leak close to O2 sensor might affect it's readings and potentially screw up self-learning
  • Oil pressure is higher than it used to be, gauge shows a bit under 40 psi hot idle, jumps to 75-80 when I hit the gas in park. Since I did a lot of wiring fixes, might be less resistance in the circuit leading to higher readings. Ideally I'll have too double check with mechanical gauge (that I don't have and don't know where/how to attach), so I'll start with checking the wiring, gauge and resistance.
  • Dash temp gauge doesn't show anything, so most probably there is lost contact somewhere between the gauge and sender. It happened to me before, but resolved itself after disconnecting and reconnecting everything. Might also be a bad contact on dash connector. Anyway, this time I'm determined to fix it once and for all. Another idea that I'm entertaining is replacing temp sender connector with a ring terminal and a nut, but need to check thread size to get proper nuts and figure out something to cover the stud.
  • Speedometer needle is bouncing like +/- 5-7mph around current speed. When I was installing DD cruise control, I replaced 2 piece speedo cable with a new 1 piece cable, which spent couple month being coiled. So 2 things that are probably causing bouncing - new cable needs time to assume the shape and I need to grease it a bit with Kable-Ease grease
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Set base timing to 12 degrees (was at around 9), it runs a bit better - at least ECU's idea of timing aligns with reality now :)

Idle being stuck in 1300s after a bit of driving is back - everything is fine when I first start the engine, after some driving it goes high and doesn't want to come down. TPS reads at 0% (basically closed) and IAC can go down to 0% - there is no way that engine can maintain stable idle with both throttle and IAC closed. All of that leads me to faulty TPS, plus it was mentioned on Edelbrock forum that they had issues with their sensors. Their tech support is off till Monday, so going to grab TH42 TPS from parts store later and try it, could be a simple fix.

Another thing I noticed after another test drive today is that transmission shifts a bit funny - little revving up during upshift and a bit of a bump on downshift. TV cable probably needs a bit of adjustment. I've seen a detailed article about 727 TV adjustments somewhere, but I can't remember where

UPD: After a bit more research and thinking about TV adjustment, I feel like I should take my "corrector" out. There is no need to have TV lever in forwardmost position at idle, in fact it seems to be detrimental to shift quality.
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy

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sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus »

Did some work yesterday and to be honest, I'm pissed at the shop that did my exhaust in February.

They can't weld for sh*t! All their welds leak like a sieve :shock: both around muffler and the O2 sensor bung. Plus I found another leak on top of the pipe before catalytic converter. No wonder ECU is struggling as O2 sensor readings are probably way off. I was going to bring it back there and make them fix it, but now I'm thinking that I'd be better off with having it done properly at the good exhaust shop. Going to check couple today, hopefully will get an appointment soon.

Got new throttle position sensor, but I won't be installing it until exhaust is sorted out - I prefer changing one thing at a time rather than throwing parts at it. Maybe the idle issue will go away after leaks are fixed and I'll return the sensor (or keep it as a spare).

Temp sender (for the dash) is dead - I tested all wiring, connectors, the gauge itself and it all checked out. Ordered new one, should arrive tomorrow.

Got inner speedometer cable out - dry as a bone, no lube on it at all. Put some Kable Ease on it, but haven't driven it yet. Hopefully needle bouncing and ticking will be gone.

Took off my throttle arm extender and readjusted the cable to pull TV lever all the way at WOT. Will see how it shifts on the drive to exhaust shop :)

Haven't done anything about oil pressure gauge (still reading 40psi at hot idle in neutral), but found 3 reference points for resistance in TSM (0 ohms @ 1psi, 46 @ 40 psi and 90 @ 80 psi), so I can check the readings on the sender and test the gauge with these resistances. I know that these are known to be inaccurate, but reading were in proper ranges before I started with EFI, so I'd expect them to be the same now.
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE
2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy
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