AMC 360 Rebuild

[Billyj7175]

As if this thread isn't pic heavy already...

Here you go?

My disclaimer...any of the more experienced builders have any inputs, please let me know...I am no way, shape or form an expert...

[Stuka]

Very nice job so far!


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[yjsquareguy]

Wow. Great job. The ppt presentation is super. Thanks

[pharmdut]

Billyj7175, that is an awesome ppt!! I just happen to have an adjustable pushrod to do this test. I will do this test very soon and post pics. This is EXACTLY what I needed.

My plan today is to assemble my engine hoist and get the garage prepared for pulling the old 360 next weekend. Wish me luck!!!

BTW...any pointers from the forum or any helpful little pearls for pulling a 360 out of an '88 GW would be greatly appreciated.

[jaber]

Be gentle around the heater box, it will break easy. 4 nuts and it will come off the firewall.

[Billyj7175]

Be gentle around the heater box, it will break easy. 4 nuts and it will come off the firewall.

X10...especially if you don't remove the exhaust manifolds.

Two nuts can be accessed from under the hood, the other two are inside. If you have A/C, the easiest way I found to access them was to remove the glovebox and go in through there.

[pharmdut]

Hey billyj7175......should I perform this test on hydraulic lifters or solid lifters? What exactly is zero lash? I did this today on hydraulic lifters on the number one cylinder at TDC. The testing rod seems to just be pushing the heel of the lifter down as I lengthen it. I am still able to turn the pushrod between my fingers. Given, it is tight to turn though. I apologize if this is such an amateur question.

Thanks in advance for the help!!

[Billyj7175]

Hey billyj7175......should I perform this test on hydraulic lifters or solid lifters? What exactly is zero lash? I did this today on hydraulic lifters on the number one cylinder at TDC. The testing rod seems to just be pushing the heel of the lifter down as I lengthen it. I am still able to turn the pushrod between my fingers. Given, it is tight to turn though. I apologize if this is such an amateur question.

Thanks in advance for the help!!

1) Should be done with hydraulic lifters.

2) Zero lash is when there is no longer any vertical movement. You should still be able to spin the pushrod with only a small amount of resistance. If the lifter is starting to depress, you've got too far. You'll get a feel for it...

3) No worries...I only know this from learning from other FSJ'rs. I've done a few others, but this is my first AMC build too and it's been a learning process for sure...


As soon as I get my stem sweep patterns right... I'll do another ppt on how to do it as well. As it stands right now, the patterns are about .050" off center towards the exhaust side. Pedestal shims should be here soon...

[pharmdut]

Last night I pulled the GW into the garage to start pulling the engine. Last night I drained the radiator, pulled the fan shroud, pulled the radiator, and pulled the fan. Oh, I also pulled the battery and it's tray. Doesn't sound exciting, i know, but it was fun! Here are some more pics.

This is a picture of the engine before I started. I will use this as my "BEFORE" pic when I compare the new engine at the end of this build.

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Fan shroud is gone.
Radiator is gone.

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Fan and clutch is gone.

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What color scheme should I use on the fan? Any ideas?

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[pharmdut]

Well I was able to get the engine out today. Wasn't as hard as I thought.

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Here it is on the floor. Time to start swapping over the accessories.

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[pharmdut]

.

[theQman]

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/11 ... ewall.html

Check this out. I saw your video and I think something is off too but I'm not sure what to do.

[pharmdut]

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/11 ... ewall.html

Check this out. I saw your video and I think something is off too but I'm not sure what to do.

Thanks QMan. That was a good read.

[Billyj7175]

Keep in mind that video covers a stud mounted (ie adjustable pivot height) rocker arm setup. Late model AMC's are fixed, therefore the only thing different pushrod lengths do, is change the amount of preload on the lifter. Pushrod length does not affect the stem pattern on on a pedestal paired setup (ie late model AMC). The idea on checking the pattern is the same though.

I don't have enough builds under my belt to pass personal judgement on that sweep pattern...

If you want to get a better idea on your stem pattern, you can take an old lifter apart, remove the spring and stack washers underneath the plunger. That will only allow the plunger to depress only so far and not completely collapse.

[pharmdut]

I finally got around to putting the valve train together. I tested my pushrod length and then installed the components. I had soaked the lifters in oil the night before and used the Royal Purple assembly lube where the pushrods contacted the rockers. I also added a squirt of oil between the rocker and forcrum (sp?), then tightened it to 19 ft lbs. DONE!

Here is the sweep pattern

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Here is a before pic

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Here is an after

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Here is a picture of the progress up to now with the old engine in the back ground.

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Next is a lot of clean up. Sanding old rusty parts. Blasting and then painting. Since I like to post pics I will have some of those later.

[pharmdut]

Well, here are some pictures of some of the cleaned up parts. There was a ton of wire wheel, boas cabinet, and sanding involved! Should have gotten some before pics. Oh well. I still need to work on the radiator, fan blades, fan shroud, battery tray, and heater box. The radiator needs a few tack welds too. The side bracket is loose.

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Needs work still

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[cherren]

great read will be following with interest

[Moosepuck]

Had to register just to say post an update! See you this weekend!

[pharmdut]

I've done some work on cleaning up the intake. I took it to the local machine shop and the cleaned the grease and dirt off.

First I prepared the intake to sand blast it in my 40lb blaster.

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After blasting I painted it with some VHT paint that I got at the parts store.

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Assembled some of the parts.

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This is what I plan to use to install the engine. Hope it works!!

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[pharmdut]

The radiator needed some repair. The driver side bottom bracket had come loss from the radiator. My original plan was to tack weld it back, but after I wire wheeled the radiator it looked like the radiator was made of brass. I'm no radiator expert, so it's just a guess. I figured brass might not like to be tack welded so I used some JB Weld. The JB did REALLY well and I'm happy with the results. Of course here are some pics!!

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And a final pic to show what I had decided to do with the fan

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