1960 FC170 and a 68 M715?

66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Thu Dec 24, 2020 12:32 pm

The I6 engine is out of the FC170 bay and down on a dolly. The coolant reservoir had to come off in order for it to slide out from under the raised JEEP.

Now comes the hard parts: cleaning up the floor, frame rails, dog house and figure out where the new motor mounts will go. The radiator needs to come out, too.

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rocklaurence · Post by **rocklaurence** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 8:19 am

Didnt you say that you are installing an Atlas 4200 with a Turbo? I cant wait!!

66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 8:51 am

rocklaurence wrote:Didnt you say that you are installing an Atlas 4200 with a Turbo? I cant wait!!

Dang, I wish! I’m just putting the 401/th400/Dana 20 (maybe the stock Dana 18 if I can).

I had to Google the Atlas 4200 (https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-11 ... nline-six/), hahaha.

I would love to stuff something like that in one of my projects!

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rocklaurence · Post by **rocklaurence** » Sat Dec 26, 2020 6:52 am

LOL, I think the 4200 would be a Kool FSJ option and the motors can be bought for Dirt prices [$300] because there is little interest in them right now. Hot Rod garage started a Two engine build to compare it to the Australian Ford Barra 4L. Unfortunately, the the Race build failed to run for the show but the Mild build Cracked 400 HP with Turbo and Injectors

66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Sat Dec 26, 2020 1:13 pm

I agree with you 100 percent.

We looked into all the I6 options for my son’s 62 and the newer Chevy 4.2 was at the top of my list, but there wasn’t a whole lot of support at the time for tranny / t case combos. I don’t recall any performance add ons at the time we looked into a swap for him either.

We went with the 1995 JEEP Cherokee 4.0 for his truck.

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66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Sat Dec 26, 2020 5:59 pm

The stock brake lines, motor mounts, wiring harness, gear / t case shifters, accel. & choke cables are gone, I’ve cleaned, wire brushed, sanded and only found pin holes of rust- an easy fix.

There’s plenty of surface rust, lol, but there was more caked on oil, sludge and road debris than anything.

Someone beat the snot out of what I think is the battery box vent hole. I hammer/dollied it back to a closer factory vent shape.

I’ll fire up the stove in the AM, do some light welding, wipe down the surface with solvent and go from there.

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66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Sun Dec 27, 2020 8:49 pm

It’s prepped and for some minor surface rust after the wire brush, I used rust seal.

You can see the treated areas vs. the untreated area.

Some before and after shots of the side vents:

Most of the screws came out just fine, the three that broke off came out from the back with the help of vice grips.

I painted the engine bay and frame with Rustoleum Stain Black, then followed it up with Rustoleum Hammered. That’s the same process I used on the back side of the vents.

Edit:

I’m cleaning up the work space today. The transmission isn’t back yet, so I’m moving on to the brakes (dual manual master cylinder set up mentioned on the FC Connection) and running brake lines.

There’s always something to do!

The 401 slid in under the frame rails only after the 1-2” clearance I gained after the stock drivetrain was removed.

I wonder what the weight difference is between the old and new drivetrains?

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66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Thu Jan 07, 2021 5:54 pm

The brake lines (jeep j20) have adapters to mate them to the Willwood dual 1” master cylinder:

I have the brake lines that run from the frame to the calipers on the front axle, new motor mounts, the transmission is home and I have new bolts to mate the tranny to the 401.

Oh, yeah, this sweatshirt came today:

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rocklaurence · Post by **rocklaurence** » Fri Jan 08, 2021 8:54 am

"I wonder what the weight difference is between the old and new drivetrains?"
From Not Enough to Awesome! That is the answer for weight, power and Coolness..

66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Fri Jan 08, 2021 12:56 pm

rocklaurence wrote:"I wonder what the weight difference is between the old and new drivetrains?"
From Not Enough to Awesome! That is the answer for weight, power and Coolness..

Hahaha, isn’t that the truth!

I took all possible steps to keep it at the stock ride height. No lift whatsoever.

After it is all buttoned up and ready to rock and roll, I might have to lift it- or at least put some overloads on her in the back to at least level it out- depending on how she sits in her final form.

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66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Sat Jan 09, 2021 5:50 pm

Slow and steady wins the race! Using https://thefcconnection.com/dual_reserv ... ersion.htm as a source for the MC brake I went ahead a disassembled the top of the dash, cut and drilled a new mounting bracket to weld in-between the existing factory bracket and mocked it all up- almost ready to weld the bracket in place.

I thought it was cool to see what appeared to be writing from the factory on the back side of the dash:

The bracket that will hold the MC:

That’s a mighty big hole, but it was not quite finished:

The notch on the left side isn’t so visible in this shot, but this is where she’ll end up:

Mock up of the dash to make sure it all fits:

Next up, welding, prep and paint, brake lines, proportioning valve, more brake lines, bleed til it stops.

Then on to gas lines, including a return line, then a radiator, then on to mounting the motor and tranny. One part in front of another, step by step.

TurboJ4000 · Post by **TurboJ4000** » Wed Jan 13, 2021 7:06 am

I love getting the email that there is more to read in your threads 66. I know it takes a lot of work to put all the photos into these threads and I want you to know I appreciate it. I cant wait to see this thing completed. Your driveway makes me envious!

66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Wed Jan 13, 2021 3:09 pm

TurboJ4000 wrote:I love getting the email that there is more to read in your threads 66. I know it takes a lot of work to put all the photos into these threads and I want you to know I appreciate it. I cant wait to see this thing completed. Your driveway makes me envious!

Thanks! That’s very nice of you to say. I’m getting better at post pics of progress, but some days I just work through the process.

I did submit measurements to a radiator shop this morning so they can quote a price for a radiator. No pics of that, though. I’ll post up pics when I get a radiator, though.

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66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Thu Jan 14, 2021 2:48 pm

I think I have a radiator lined up from a local radiator shop, but I have some cleanup to do after the wind storm blew through the area. Luckily nothing was damaged, but I did lose a few roof shingles-I have to inspect that a little later on today.

Today is another day off ‘the day job ‘due to power outages in the area.

Edit:

What a PITA to clean up.

Ok, so here’s what I have in mind for the radiator:

This info is from Northwest Radiator over on Trent Ave. in Spokane.

This is their rendering of a “blank radiator”.

A blank is a radiator already put together but and no inlets, or outlets. Those will be welded on based upon the client’s request/specs. The blank part number is 209600b

It can be bought online from just about any supplier.

Here is their quote for everything done to make it work, plus the cost of the radiator:

So I took the sheet home, made a CAD (cardboard aided design!) template and it worked pretty well.

I had to lob off 8” of the mounting tabs to accommodate the curve of the doghouse, though:

I wasn’t 100% sure if it was to specs, so I made a wood template; note the 2.3” cuts on the bottom edge- that reflects the diagram’s rendering of the tabs at the bottom of their illustration:

It fit perfectly. My only concern is the 4wd shifting lever that runs to the passenger side; it’s a close call on whether or not it will all fit together and shift, but I have some ideas on a solutions if needed.

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Chubbinius · Post by **Chubbinius** » Fri Jan 15, 2021 10:25 am

That is a pretty cool option to be able to have the shop add the in/outlets where you need. Nice work on the CAD/WAD. Depth of the radiator good for the fit too?

Bummer on the clean up, but you now have lots pine boughs to make wreaths...oh, wait, we just finished the Holiday season...kindling for a nice outdoor firepit.

66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Fri Jan 15, 2021 4:28 pm

Chubbinius wrote:That is a pretty cool option to be able to have the shop add the in/outlets where you need. Nice work on the CAD/WAD. Depth of the radiator good for the fit too?

Bummer on the clean up, but you now have lots pine boughs to make wreaths...oh, wait, we just finished the Holiday season...kindling for a nice outdoor firepit.

I didn’t know about radiator “blanks”; so I thought that was kinda cool to learn.

I did ask the old timer behind the counter if they shipped across the USA, and he said yeah.

BUT, I imagine if anyone has a radiator shop in their town, or if they can weld aluminum, you can order from any supplier.

Haha, I did burn a few boughs in the fire pit last night while I was cleaning up my CAD/\WAD scraps, lol, I dig your WAD acronym- classic!

The radiator should be done sometime next week.

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shortbus4x4 · Post by **shortbus4x4** » Fri Jan 15, 2021 6:25 pm

I love Northwest Radiator, it's getting harder and harder to find old school radiator shops. Nice build on the FC. I owned a couple years ago and drove one around a bit, it was fun.

Greenmachine · Post by **Greenmachine** » Sat Jan 16, 2021 11:48 am

You may already be aware of this or happy with the stock steering (just figured I would throw this out there). I have been researching steering for my fc150 and noticed that Jeep engineers do this on the fc150 they built for EJS. They used a tj frame too but it should work for a regular fc frame. I found these used on eBay for less than $100 and you would have to source a right hand drive steering box and a little machine work to connect it all up.

https://andantex.com/product/anglgear/

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66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Sat Jan 16, 2021 3:47 pm

shortbus4x4 wrote:I love Northwest Radiator, it's getting harder and harder to find old school radiator shops. Nice build on the FC. I owned a couple years ago and drove one around a bit, it was fun.

I never used them before- it was always Corky’s in the downtown area. So far, though I am pleased with the price and the attention to detail they have!

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66stepside · Post by **66stepside** » Sat Jan 16, 2021 3:56 pm

Greenmachine wrote:You may already be aware of this or happy with the stock steering (just figured I would throw this out there). I have been researching steering for my fc150 and noticed that Jeep engineers do this on the fc150 they built for EJS. They used a tj frame too but it should work for a regular fc frame. I found these used on eBay for less than $100 and you would have to source a right hand drive steering box and a little machine work to connect it all up.

https://andantex.com/product/anglgear/

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THIS is very COOL! The steering has been a huge distraction! Thank you for the info.

Most Jeeps have their online forums and a lot of tips and tricks for building, modding and even restoring- except the FC. Yeah, there’s the fcconnection, but that site is kinda defunct, and overall not much help.

There is a spot for FC’s on the old willy’s forum, but after looking through most of the posts there, it appears to mostly be about “show and tell after the build is done.”

I have poured over the amazing FC build by “Mariner” on the ifsja, but every amazing mod he made was mostly mods I didn’t want to do.

Maybe there’s away to encourage more FC build on this site? This site has a lot of great info and I certainly appreciate the chance to document the little things I’m doing to keep this FC beast on the road.

Thanks again for the info, pics and link!

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