Ax15 swap into 83 j10 360

[dyermullet]

I am starting to have some clutch slipping. I believe I used a LUK clutch from rockauto. I am not sure how many miles I have on this setup 7,500-8,000. Slipping started in last 1000 miles. We are towing a travel trailer that is max 3500 lb.

Is there any good/proven options for a clutch? The clutch had less than 10 miles on it before I started towing with it. So I didn't give it a proper break in. I need something that is going to last more than 8,000 miles.

[Yeller]

Details on how it’s installed? My guess would be it wasn’t releasing all the way.

[dyermullet]

I had and still have good clutch release I made adjustable linkage and adjusted it to have good release and full engagement. Doesn't grind going into reverse etc.

I am stating to get some slipping at higher rpm, high load, in higher gear 3 and 4. Not slipping yet in first. But I now have to be careful to not overpower the clutch while towing.

Any suggestions on good holding, quick break in on a clutch for these jeeps. I can get another b&b style like I have no. I seen bj has a center force. Is there anything else available?

[akguy09]

I think the point that Yeller was making is that a properly set up clutch should not be toasted by 8,000 miles. So there is another issue going on and replacing the clutch isnt going to solve the problem, thats a band aid

[Yeller]

I think the point that Yeller was making is that a properly set up clutch should not be toasted by 8,000 miles. So there is another issue going on and replacing the clutch isnt going to solve the problem, thats a band aid

Yes exactly the point. Your not doing anything that should require an upgrade. A stock clutch will hold a lot more than most would think. I have seen failure of new parts that were of no fault of the operator with them where the were incorrectly machined from the factory or had spring failures. I've also seen engine torque cause enough motion for the linkage to put pressure on the throwout bearing to allow the clutch to slip a little at very high input loads, and it kill the clutch in short order. All of the manufacturers use basically the same unit in a truck application. I'm assuming it is a 10" or 11" unit. The 11" unit is used in 1 ton trucks that do way more than you'll ever do with a wagon. The 10" usually came in CJ's, but was also used behind a 426 hemi, so holding power really isn't an issue. The centerforce that BJ's sells is a very nice piece, put it in and don't figure out the mechanical issue, you'll be right back at it in 8,000 miles.

I've also be trying to figure out how to tactfully, respectfully ask, this so I'll bring up a story, and make it about my experience and not about the OP, last thing I want to do is offend, accuse or slight him, I don't know him and don't want to be that asshat that goes there assuming anything. I used to have a 1 ton dodge diesel with a 5 speed that we used as a delivery truck. Had 3 different drivers, I put a clutch in the truck every 25-30,000 miles like clock work did brakes every 20k. I took the truck at 130k when we had to put a new transmission in it and started driving it as my commuter, delivery truck, cross country tow pig. 250,000 miles later, same clutch, same transmission and 1 set of brakes. The other 3 drivers were experienced commercial truck drivers, I didn't do any less weight than they did, in fact I did more, I'd push limits that I wouldn't let them do. Long story short, driving style can mean a lot to a clutch.

[dyermullet]

Not offended, just for some real world experience on a brand that lasted and isn't junk out of the box.
I was not impressed with the LUK clutch for example, it had a crimped in "insert" that adapted the disk to the proper input spline. That whole set up had slop in it from that. I am looking for something of better quality

This is an 11" clutch had a new flywheel. Unfortunately had no time to give the clutch a proper break in. Drove it just a few miles before set out on a road trip towing our 3500 lb camper. First 20 miles it stunk of clutch bad.
3.31 gears truck full of camping gear and the trailer are a bad combo (it needs a gear swap in the future ). Have to slip the clutch a lot to get started especially on any kind of hill. So I didn't give it a good break in, and yes I am being very hard on it. Going to continue this trip until next August. Will have downtime in December want to pull the Trans in December and swap the clutch. Gear swap will have to wait unil after our trip is complete.

Besides going over engineer pass, random back road/trail miles around national parks and 600 miles of gear break in; the rest of the mIles have all been towing.

[Yeller]

Clutch smell when new is not good. A good OEM 11” clutch should be more than sufficient. I’ve had good luck out of Sachs clutches in the past, have with Luk too but wanted to give another option.

[dyermullet]

Thanks

[akguy09]

Just curious what size tires your running

[dyermullet]

31 x10.5

[akguy09]

thats a lot of tire with that axle gear, not surprising that you were unhappy with that clutch lifespan

[dyermullet]

stock combo as far as I can tell. AX15 has lower first gear than the T-177, so actually better than stock right now! I am just living with it and enjoying our trip.

[Stuka]

If you had clutch smell just by driving, it probably means it was either not grabbing tight enough (incorrectly adjusted release bearing maybe), or there were some oils on the clutch/pressure plate resulting in it having less surface area with a good bite.

Or it could just be the result of having to slip a brand new clutch. New clutches are so heat sensitive. The was an episode of Roadkill Garage a while back where they toasted a brand new clutch in a day because they didn't have time to go through the break-in period.

[chevelleguy]

There was an episode of Roadkill Garage a while back where they toasted a brand new clutch in a day because they didn't have time to go through the break-in period.

I was thinking of this same episode


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