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Ok. Nooby question of the day.
Just bought a stock 79 Wagoneer, with tow package and low range. Parked for the last fifteen years. I'm starting the rehab process in hopes of some semblance of reliability by summer. In the mean time, I dream about the fun stuff that will come after I get it squared away, that is, lift, tires, gears, lockers, blah,blah,blah.
Question is, how will the quadra trac t-case hold up if I mount 35s before a re-gear? Yeah, I know the thing will be an absolute dog off the line, but let's say I'm cool with that for a while. Will it be too much stress on the T-case though? Even if I keep it on the street? Thanks for reading.
Need parts, I am selling my project build Fsj.
High steering, lockers, 6.2 diesel, trany, T case.
88 FSJ, runs on 360 gas, snow plow.
16" Fsj 5.5x6 alum rims.
Spare leaf over axle, yokes rotated and re welded.
6.5 turbo Diesel, dana 60 k3500 axles.
Need cash due to illness
Yeah, I'm planning on a 6 inch lift whether I go with 33s or 35s. 35s of course will require some trimming, even with the lift. Main thing I'm concerned about is stress on the drive train. I know the axles could take it what with the tall gears and wimpy stock engine, but the t-case makes me worried, it being the borg warner 1339. If the thing blows, there's no turning it off and running 2WD.
Why do you believe the Quadratrac is so weak? The Quadratrac exploding reportedly results when the chain is very loose and folds over. Any component can be vulnerable when required maintenance is neglected. Have you measured your chain slack? I believe there's no evidence to suggest that the BW13xx is any weaker than any other aluminum case transfer case.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I have reliable QT info on a link in my signature. It's old but reliable. The QT is very reliable if maintenance is kept up. They put them in all makes of FSJ including the J20.
1) I personally do not like the part time conversion for QTs and have my reasons. If you are going to lock the front and rear axle, the stock QT will not like that. It puts more wear and tear on the brake cones and cone washers. It would be better to have a part time kit with the lockers.
2) I am not sure I would run 35s with a QT and D44 axles. I have run 33s no problem. With 35s, NP208 and D44s I have learned the axle shafts are the weak point and have chromoly axle shafts to install now.
3) I have ridden in a couple FSJs with 6" lift springs. It is too stiff for my liking. You will still need to trim sheet metal to run 33s or 35s. From the sound of your desires, I recommend Spring Over Axle on the front and Shackle Flip kit for the rear. With that you use stock springs. It is roughly a 6" lift and you still need a trim on 33s or 35s.
Thanks for the replies. I'm not necessarily convinced the bw 1339 is weak or anything, but I remember reading posts in the past theorizing that it might be a bad idea to run 35s with stock gears and the 1339, that it might make the case work extra hard. Was skeptical of this, but didn't want to do something stupid. I plan on doing mods in increments, being on a rather tight budget. And yes, chrome molly axles are planned. Fulsizejeep, I imagine you are referring to Wally when you mention d44s and 35s. How has your experience been with that set up? Bern running stock axles? Wally is a cool build. Good stance.
Yogi wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:20 am
Thanks for the replies. I'm not necessarily convinced the bw 1339 is weak or anything, but I remember reading posts in the past theorizing that it might be a bad idea to run 35s with stock gears and the 1339, that it might make the case work extra hard. Was skeptical of this, but didn't want to do something stupid. I plan on doing mods in increments, being on a rather tight budget. And yes, chrome molly axles are planned. Fulsizejeep, I imagine you are referring to Wally when you mention d44s and 35s. How has your experience been with that set up? Bern running stock axles? Wally is a cool build. Good stance.
Stock gears (either 3.07 or 3.54 for that year) and 35" tires will put more stress on the transfer case and u-joints. But, if the t-case is in good mechanical shape, you should be ok. If its not, the first thing you will notice is a popping sound when under load, like starting from a stop on a steep hill. You go to accelerate, and you will hear/feel a popping sound. This is the sound of the chain slipping on one of the gears.
The only time I have heard of a QT case breaking is if the chain breaks. And this same thing will happen to any chain driven t-case.
Yogi wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:37 am
Could a 79 have 3.54 gears? I was under the impression that it would be 3.31 for the tow package. 3.54 would be great!
80-91 had 2.72 and 3.31 gear options. 74-79 was 3.07 and 3.54 (excluding J20's).
Yogi wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:20 am
Fulsizejeep, I imagine you are referring to Wally when you mention d44s and 35s. How has your experience been with that set up? Bern running stock axles? Wally is a cool build. Good stance.
Yes. Stock worked good until I twisted a rear axle shaft. Chromoly shafts going in this Spring.
Maybe I should start a new thread for this question, but I'll ask anyway. Fulsizejeep and others have said that a 6 inch suspension lift has a nasty ride, and not much flex as I understand. Question is, how would a 4 inch spring lift with 2 inch body lift perform? Better ride and flex? Any difference as far as how much fender trimming would be necessary, the one being all spring, the other being spring and body combo?
Personally I hate body lifts. They introduce other issues.
But it should be known, a six inch lift will still require trimming to run 35’s. I had a six inch lift and 34’s barely cleared at full stuff with timing to the fold in the fender flares.