Lift Kit recommendations

[ArchitectJS]

I want to do a modest lift to get a more rugged stance. 2-3 inches" I don't want to have to modify drive length etc. My Cherokee is not an offroader. More of a pris (eventually) Jeep.

From what i've read-

Rough Country is rough
Rusty's is ok for my purposes
Hell Creek offers a FSJN discount
BJ's 2.5 lift promises no significant mods (i assume all the 3" lifts will likewise be the same)

Why is the BJs kit double the money of the Hell Creek / Rusty's? Am I getting something additional that i'm not aware of?

What about all the accessories that BJ's offers; Track Bar extensions, Sway Bar disconnects, steering stabilizers? Do i need these?

Help me know what i don't know.

[ArchitectJS]

http://wagoneers.com/tech/Suspension/ol ... tions.html

This seems like a good explanation of many of my questions. Posting it here for posterity...

[Stuka]

BJ's and Skyjacker are the most complete kits. You don't always need all of the accessories, as some are year specific.

Keep looking around like you are, and then choose what best fits your budget. Just don't go and by a spring only setup, as then you will be missing a lot.

[ArchitectJS]

If i understand correctly.

Drive shafts will be fine with up to a 3" lift- correct?
Straight pitman arm is ok up to a 3" lift- correct?

I have a stock steering stabilizer. Its not leaking. No need to change it.
Sway bar disconnect - I'm not going off road, dont need articulation. Shouldn't need this. BJs has 1.5" extended version, if necessary.
Track bar bracket. BJs has a bracket thats for lifts 4-6". Will my stock track bars accomodate the travel required for a 2.5-3" lift?

[Stuka]

Drive shafts, provided they are in good shape, are fine for a 3". If they have worn u-joints of slip joints, the lift will make them being bad far more noticeable.

Stock steering stabilizer is fine.

Extended sway bar links might be needed, depends on how the angle of yours ends up being. Very easy to add later.

On an '82 you won't have track bars. So you can ignore that entirely.

[ArchitectJS]

Thanks- that’s the help I need

[ArchitectJS]

FYI - Hell Creek and Rough Country use the same product number, RC-645.

I think these are the same kit...

[tgreese]

FYI - Hell Creek and Rough Country use the same product number, RC-645.

I think these are the same kit...

Possible. You could call Hell Creek and ask.

You can also have springs made to your spec at Deaver in Santa Ana or Alcan in Grand Junction - likely other places. There are stock replacement springs for the GW made by Dayton, available through regular retail channels. Replacement springs will very likely give you 2-3" of lift over the existing springs, without any "lift" as such. They offer multiple leaf counts for these springs, with commensurate higher weight ratings. IIRC the rear axle is spring over, and the cheaper kits give you two front springs and a block to go between the spring and axle pad in the rear. You could do the same thing with blocks using widely available aftermarket parts.

[Stuka]

FYI - Hell Creek and Rough Country use the same product number, RC-645.

I think these are the same kit...

Only if you are buying the 3" kit from hell creek.

Their 2.5" springs and 4" springs are their own. They just resell rough country for the 3" kit.

[ArchitectJS]

They don't currently list a 2.5"

The Rusty's kit references the possibility that moving the rear shock mounts is needed. Has anybody experienced the need for this?

I guess that leaves me with RC. For me, i don't the value in the BJs or Skyjacker. Particularly as i'm not a wheeler.

[coolhand75]

They don't currently list a 2.5"

The Rusty's kit references the possibility that moving the rear shock mounts is needed. Has anybody experienced the need for this?

I guess that leaves me with RC. For me, i don't the value in the BJs or Skyjacker. Particularly as i'm not a wheeler.

Yes
I rebuilt my rear end and while I was down there I rebuilt my factory springs. Rc doesn’t offer a rear spring setup for my model. What I noticed was that the shop of installed the lift blocks dented the shock body to get them to bolt up to the axle. I had a buddy weld 3/16 plate in between the shock brackets and bought new longer shocks(the other ones that came with the kit were two inches to short) that had a stud on the top and could be mounted upside down. Problem solved. Sorry for the ramble


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[rocklaurence]

I have a rear shock relocation kit and a video addressing the issue. https://rocklaurencevintageautoparts.co ... after-lift

I also have a rear bump-stop kit to prevent springs with blocks from over compressing. https://rocklaurencevintageautoparts.co ... p-stop-kit

YouTube The Slab64 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTkafyzvyxQ&t=1252s

[ArchitectJS]

Thanks for that, Rock.

a bolted connection- totally do-able.

[Stuka]

They don't currently list a 2.5"

The Rusty's kit references the possibility that moving the rear shock mounts is needed. Has anybody experienced the need for this?

I guess that leaves me with RC. For me, i don't the value in the BJs or Skyjacker. Particularly as i'm not a wheeler.

They do, its just that their site is absolutely terrible.

You have to look directly under springs. But this is just the stuff to install springs. No shocks or anything.

For the comment from Rusty's, this mostly applies to J-Trucks, but can be an issue on waggies too. And mostly only if you have 4-6" of lift. Basically the rear axle shock mounts are kind of under the axle. And as the axle goes down, the angle gets steeper. Using shims to point the pinion up will make this more noticeable.

[ArchitectJS]

I thought i tried that. I'll look again.

Thanks for the insight.