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Greetings
I realize this topic has been visited, revisited, then finally taken up permanent residency but I'm new to it and would like to tap into that wellspring of knowledge that many of the sages here have in their possesion. I have many questions but mostly, I don't even know what to ask. This reminds me of what my old boss used to say, "You don't know, what you don't know". So here I am, hat in hands...
The details: 1978 Wagoneer with a 401, TH400, and QT. The 401 has a spun bearing. This will be used as a long distance vintage RV hauler with some assorted hunting/fishing trips with grandkids, all the while looking very cool in one of the best looking family rigs ever! I'm looking for reliability (fuel injection, computer controls), performance, and fuel mileage. In that order. I am in no hurry, I have the funds, I have a large shop, I have the tools, ain't skeert, and I really enjoy doing this stuff. I've had two previous GM trucks with the 6.0 and they were fantastic.
1) What or who have some of the best build threads?
2) 4.8, 5.3, 6.0? Something else?
3) 4l80, 6l80?
4) Transfer case... which one that deals with the passenger side drop?
5) Fuel... modify the stock tank or swap in from another rig?
6) Driveshafts... lengthen, shorten, SYE?
7) Years or year range to stay away from?
8) What am I not asking that I should be asking?
9) Good vendors to deal with?
I have a 78 Cherokee and am putting in a 2006 L33 5.3L. I am not complete with reassembly (at paint shop) but a bit of advice I can provide is the following...
I used the Novak adjustable mount. I used the same upper front bolt hole on the Novak mount as the rear shock tower mount bolt. This gave me a couple inches of space between my electric fan and the front of the pulleys. Also cleared the firewall and hood with plenty of room.
I kept the matching 4L60E and upgraded the TC to an Atlas II. I was able to retain the stock transmission cross member in the factory location (rear), and it is passenger side drop. Unfortunately, the PO jacked up the quadratrac so I couldn't keep it.
I put in an aftermarket tank in the spare tire location. I wanted the baffles for EFI compatibility and additional fuel capacity. The existing tank would have fit with this configuration.
Factory rear driveshaft looks like it will work. I need to order a front one since it didn't come with one.
Good Vendors - Talk to Jeff Brown at Novak. He is a really great resource, and is patient to deal with all my silly questions. I have never done anything like this before, and am too picky for my own good. I would have overanalyzed everything to make sure it was done right, and their experience really helped speed up my build by sending me in the right direction. He has been quick to respond to anything I have asked.
BTW, their radiator and fan shroud is really nice.
I do a lot of lurking and just reading all the posts on FSJN and IFSJA.
Also, if you haven't had the chance, check out the ICON Wagoneer. There are several videos online of people walking through the vehicle with Jonathan Ward. It is really nice.
cpfeifffer wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2020 8:56 pm
I picked the aluminum block L33 because it seemed like a good middle ground of horsepower, lighter weight, and good fuel economy.
I had a 6.0 LQ4 in my last truck and it was fine but was really thirsty.
Did you find a donor vehicle or purchase a recycler removal?
I know my limits. Rebuilding an engine is not feasible for me at this point. I don’t have the experience to do it myself. I did a lot of research on buying a new one vs. rebuilt LS vs. rebuilding my existing 360. I was going to have to replace the TC and tranny so it just made sense to go rebuilt LS. I ended up buying a powertrain from Novak. It took a lot of the guesswork out of it.
cpfeifffer wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 5:18 pm
I know my limits. Rebuilding an engine is not feasible for me at this point. I don’t have the experience to do it myself. I did a lot of research on buying a new one vs. rebuilt LS vs. rebuilding my existing 360. I was going to have to replace the TC and tranny so it just made sense to go rebuilt LS. I ended up buying a powertrain from Novak. It took a lot of the guesswork out of it.
The engine was $7,500 and transmission was $2,300, so that is accurate. You will spend more on ancillary stuff like adapters, coolers, fuel pump, speedo sensor, radiator, etc. I would budget a total of $15,000.
Rebuilding the existing engine is better in the sense that you don’t have all the extra costs.
My decision to spend the extra 5k over a rebuild of the existing engine and tranny was based on the theory that I wanted my wife to be able to get in this vehicle and not have to worry about the nuances of driving a carbureted vehicle. Add the better performance (330 HP), better fuel economy with an OD transmission, better parts availability...
I’m also doing this kind of build. I’m going 5.3, 4L60E and using the Dana 20 from my 1970 Wagoneer. Hemmed and hawed about 6.0 motor, but (like you) fuel consumption is a consideration. The folks at Novak have been really helpful. Their guide was a great resource for me when I was still deciding which way to go. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/en ... /fsj-swap
70 1414x
5.3 LMG/4L60e/Dana 20
Dana 44s front and rear with 3.73s and discs
Previously, 72 Wagoneer
Carbed, Cammed, and Lifted
I have had excellent service with Novak.com for the LS engine mounts, transmission/t-case adapters and clutch parts.
As for a source for LS engines I found this guy out of Nevada http://bdturnkeyengines.com/available-engines
Good price and great customer service. Performance options are available and each comes with a ready to run harness. I got myself a 6.0 LQ4 with a ZO6 Cam. Idles great and runs up to 6k in the blink of eye. I get about 16mpg average, best was around 20mpg and my worst was 13mpg towing our offroad tear-drop camper.
If your doing Fuel Injection I cannot stress the benefit of going to an In-Tank-Pump enough, after burning out 2 walbro external pumps i went to a 29 gal replacement tank with a Holley Sniper (19-350) pump.
If your looking for new gauges, I spent a few bucks and got all new gauges from www.speedhut.com. They are fully customizable. With all the options, I paid about the same as a set from dakotadigital.com But I enjoyed having the custom details I was able to get. Plus the GPS Speedo is amazing.
If you get the 3-3/8" round gauges they fit right into the 70'/80's three round cluster dash bezel, with some minor cutting.