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If you're really concerned about strength, it's worth it to get a yoke that's designed to run u-bolts in the first place. If you drill out the yoke, you're compromising it.
I've had a couple friends do it, and if you notice it places the u-bolt inboard on the u-joint cap, not out on the edge. The U-bolts are a little thinner and need to sit out where the strength is.
Yokes are only like $30 too.
85 Grand Wagoneer 5.2/44RE/NP229
98 TJ 5.9/46RE/D300
97 F250 Powerstroke
i looked at it, there isnt enough room. i already replaced the seals. i had it apart to do seals and change the input to work with the 700r4. i didnt even notice it is supposed to have straps not u bolts at the time. i looked at it better yesterday, it doesnt look like it would work. where can you get the yokes for 30$?
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
I'm not drilling it. I went and compared a d44 and d300 yoke it won't work there is no room for nuts on the back. I I'm just at a point with this swap I'm tired of spending $$$