wiring questions - ignition, starter relay, choke - fixed

[Mikeswagon]

dear car electrics lovers and experts,

i am about to put the harness back in on my project and running into some problems.... i have a 1400 Edelbrock installed and a Skip White HEI. So i reckon i can remove some cables, and some are already missing, so here´s what i am looking at:



The red circles show where the existing cables end. The orange piece of wire is the resistor wire going to the no longer existing ignition module.
Can i just remove what´s left of the cable coming from the splice before circle nr.1?

At circle 2, i would think the resistor wire is no longer necessary, is the whole loop/circuit at all any longer?

Next question ist about the elctric choke:



I read that the orange wire can be used to hook up the choke. People say it´s not fused, but from the diagram i understand it is? Or should an inline fuse be used? Thanks for any confirmation and enlightenment here...

Michael

[csuengr]

Leave the choke wire exactly as it is now. Don't do nothin' to it. It is fused though.

For the HEI, the resistor wire goes away. You then need to find a wire that is hot in run and start. I forget the color, I want to say yellow or green, wire that goes between the firewall connector and the ignition module that is the one you want. You just need to splice it to get it to the HEI.

[Mikeswagon]

Yes, i found a good thread in IFSJA on where to get the signal for the HEI, at the connector to the ignition control module - that should not be a problem.

Still i wonder what that circuit from the starter relay to (now) the ignition switch, originally with the resistor wire, is good for? (coloured green/orange in the diagram) Do i need to keep it?

[csuengr]

Those can be taken out. What is happening is that when the key is in the run position (and start, more on that next) the power goes through the resistor wire to the coil. When the key is in the start position, the resistor wire is bypassed so the coil receives full voltage, about 10V when cranking. Other wise, there may not be enough voltage to power the coil. HEI eliminates all this gobblety goop.

[Mikeswagon]

hmmm, why can´t i just take that wire, ignition and alternator feed, and route it to the HEI? Should be a full voltage 12V, or is it only hot at start? I am still no friends with wiring diagrams

Tried to follow what was written down in the afore mentioned thread but i lost it on the way. I can not find any other switched 12V form the diagrams at the firewall connector....

[csuengr]

Only hot in start.

It would also help to know what year of vehicle you are working on.

[Mikeswagon]

That's true - it's a 89 Grand Wagoneer.

What about the 12v from the orange choke wire? Switched from the oil pressure switch?

Thanks for your help so far!

[FSJ Guy]

The orange choke heater wire (is also used on the anti-diesel solenoid) IS NOT FUSED by a regular fuse in your fuse panel. It is only protected by a fusible link. And if that fusible link blows, it will take out power circuits leaving you dead in the water. AMHIK.

Put a regular fuse on the circuit if you're going to keep it and/or use it.

[csuengr]

It's also not hot in start.

You are also trying to make this harder than it is. Find the wire to the ignition module that is hot in run and start and splice a wire to it to get to the HEI. That is what I did when I put HEI on my 88'. Everything else I left alone or ignored.

[Mikeswagon]

You are also trying to make this harder than it is

i bet i am... but not on purpose

Since i can not test it, i need to figure from the wiring diagrams. I just checked the old ignition module, there is only two wires going in, yellow and green. The green one is the starter relay feed. I hope i have one more guess - that´s the one???

Marked dark green here....



Or is the module "combining" and putting out a 12v HOT on Start and Run after the module? I am asking because i already deleted the module and everything else.... in that case i guess i have to get a 12V source and relay it.....

electric and me =

Update: ok, i finally got it, it´s not green, only hot on start...

Leaves me to the question, is there a switched live wire start/run at the firewall, since the ignition module is gone now?

[csuengr]

Yes there is. It was there to power the ignition module. I'll see if i can't finf it tomorrow.

[csuengr]

There is a RED wire coming out of the firewall connector that went to the two prong plug for the ignition module. That plug should have a red wire and a light blue wire. You want to use the red wire.

[babywag]

late model duraspark module power wires are yellow & green. 2 wire weatherpack connector coming off the firewall bulkhead

IIRC the yellow one is hot in start or run.

[Mikeswagon]

Yes, that´s what i said, it´s the yellow and green wire that is shown on the diagram above....

So if according to the diagram both are not hot at start AND run, the module must have switched it, right? Leaves me without a simple solution....

[csuengr]

One wire is hot in start only. (green) The other is hot in run and start. (yellow) You really need a test light or DVM. Test light is the simplest, cause it is just a light bulb.

[Mikeswagon]

yeah, it´s the yellow one on these years - i am having a good spark