Thinking Aloud, Engine Swap

[ProTouring442]

Originally I was considering going with a 700R4 behind the AMC 360 in my '89 Grand Wagoneer. But, after much looking, crunching of numbers, and a bit of guesstimation (including factoring in the fact that my 360 has some odd noise, the origin of which I have yet to determine), I have concluded that it won't cost much more to swap in an LS/Vortec engine/transmission than it would to buy all the adapters to put the 700R4 behind the 360.

I am looking at using either the LH6 5.3, or the LQ9 6.0.

The LQ9 has 345hp and 380 lb·ft while the LH6 has 300hp and 330 lb·ft.

Behind the engine, I want to use the 4L60E (comes with the engine), and my NP229 transfer case. Novak 4L63 adapts the 229 to the 4L60E, but I will need to replace the tailshaft.

I know I'll need adapter mounts, new radiator, modified wiring harness, modified P/S hoses, modified A/C hoses (I'll be installing my Chevy C10 integrated A/C), modified driveshafts, and modified exhaust.

Anything else that jumps out at you?

When the trans shop swaps out the tailshaft, other than look through the trans, is there anything else I should have them do?

I was thinking of having the guy on Pirate 4X4 modify the harness and modify the ECM. Anyone know if this is a bad choice?

Don't worry, I'll start a build thread once I begin the process.

[carnuck]

I would put an AW4 behind the 360 before going the other way, but they are cheap here. I picked up an OBDII one for $250

[ProTouring442]

I would put an AW4 behind the 360 before going the other way, but they are cheap here. I picked up an OBDII one for $250

I did consider the AW4, but there would still be the problem of the engine noise (which I think is probably an broken piston skirt). Throw in the price of pistons, rings, a hone job, main and cam bearings, and a timing set...

If the engine sounded healthy, I'd be apt to agree with you, but since it sounds like a cement mixer...

[derf]

If you're paying for the labor to swap the tail shaft you may as well do a complete rebuild. There are a number of simple upgrades you can do to the transmission while you're in there. There are better spec clutch packs and other items like that. Any transmission shop should be able to walk you through that.

Keep in mind, the 6.0 would have come from the factory backed by a 4L80E rather than a 4L60E. So before you go and get the adapter, make sure you know which transmission you're getting with your engine. There's nothing wrong with running a 4L80E since it's a stronger transmission to begin with but it is a completely different transmission and the adapters/parts will be different. If you want, you can run a 4L60E behind a 6.0 without any expensive adapters. But you'll have to buy them separately and make sure you have the right combination of flex plate and torque converter.

[AwesomeJ10]

I recently put a 4.3l v6 / 700r4 / np208 into the J20 and found that it's a sweet little combo. Runs great on stock (very small) tires and 4:10 gears. getting around 16-17 mpg, maybe more.

I'm so happy with that combo that I'm putting another 4.3l v6 and 700r4 into the waggy, keeping the Atlas. The waggy already has 4:10 8 lug axles and I'm thinking about swapping those out for some junkyard 8 lugs with 4.56 gears. Should be a sweet little combo and won't overheat or leak oil

Those 4.3L v6's are a dime a dozen around here. Makes good sense.

[ProTouring442]

So I just pulled the trigger on an LY5/4L60E combo (320hp/340ft-lbs).

My plan is to run the 42 gallon Suburban tank. To keep it from hanging way too low, I plan on raising the floor area behind the rear seat about 2 inches.

Build thread to follow...

[AwesomeJ10]

Sweet!