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If so, I'd love to hear your impressions of finished project. I already have a hard enough time hearing so want to eliminate as much road noise, rattles and vibrations as possible.
I've sprayed in lizard skin (2 coats) and trying to determine if the additional cost of going over that with Dynamat is justified.
TIA, matt.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90 GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block) 4L60E
Dynamat is considered the better sound deadener, as well as acting as a thermal barrier. Lizard skin requires ceramic insulation to provide the thermal barrier. But dynamat can be more effort to install, provided the floor is also ready prepped.
I could not find any reviews of people using them together though. But outside of having a thicker layer under the carpet, not sure I can think of any downsides.
As a potential upside, you don't really need to put dyamat everywhere. You could just go and place it on the larger flat areas, which will transmit sound more than curved areas. So the bottom of the footwells would be a good place for it. Inside the doors is a must if you have not already coated the insides of them. The roof generates a ton of noise if its not coated already.
Stuka wrote: ↑Tue Nov 23, 2021 7:44 am
Dynamat is considered the better sound deadener, as well as acting as a thermal barrier. Lizard skin requires ceramic insulation to provide the thermal barrier. But dynamat can be more effort to install, provided the floor is also ready prepped.
I could not find any reviews of people using them together though. But outside of having a thicker layer under the carpet, not sure I can think of any downsides.
As a potential upside, you don't really need to put dyamat everywhere. You could just go and place it on the larger flat areas, which will transmit sound more than curved areas. So the bottom of the footwells would be a good place for it. Inside the doors is a must if you have not already coated the insides of them. The roof generates a ton of noise if its not coated already.
I haven't been able to find reviews either, here or on other forums.
Thickness and cost are probably the only downsides I see and those aren't major reasons not to do it. It will never be cheaper than now.
I did buy two 12"x12" squares to test over lizard skin for adhesion. I called Dynamat and talked to them and they said bedliner like finishes are one of the few surfaces that can present a challenge. I cleaned it well and tested it and it is definitely stuck on there. I feel comfortable with result so will likely just move forward.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90 GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block) 4L60E
Check out Resonix and CLD tiles as well. You really don't need 100% coverage with the Dynamat product to see big changes. After a certain % of coverage, you won't notice much of a difference except for a lighter wallet. Lizard skins seems to work by changing the resonance frequency of the metal to a lower frequency that doesn't travel as far as the higher frequency. The CLD tiles and Dynamat product work to absorb some frequency energy and turn it into heat energy. It is much more effective, but I think the Lizard Skins is great for the wheel wells, under body, etc.
I would not use fatmat or any asphalt based alternative to Dynamat, they literally stink/smell in hot environments.
Pablo wrote: ↑Thu Dec 02, 2021 1:36 pm
Check out Resonix and CLD tiles as well. You really don't need 100% coverage with the Dynamat product to see big changes. After a certain % of coverage, you won't notice much of a difference except for a lighter wallet. Lizard skins seems to work by changing the resonance frequency of the metal to a lower frequency that doesn't travel as far as the higher frequency. The CLD tiles and Dynamat product work to absorb some frequency energy and turn it into heat energy. It is much more effective, but I think the Lizard Skins is great for the wheel wells, under body, etc.
I would not use fatmat or any asphalt based alternative to Dynamat, they literally stink/smell in hot environments.
Sounds like it's just adding mass to the resonant surface. Pablo hints at the principles involved.
More mass means lower resonant frequency. Flexible material will deform and soak up energy to release as heat. I would guess that old inner tube rubber glued to the surface would work just as well as fancy self-adhesive panels. I would consider and look for found materials like this for a while before I spent a lot of money on specialist materials. Maybe recycled coin flooring? The home stores sell rubber runner for stairways by the foot. Plain jute carpet padding is also very effective at damping and blocking sound. I used the Harbor Freight floor tiles on the floor of my J20 - cheap and nice underfoot. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-a ... 94635.html Horse stall mats would probably be better, but they are anchor heavy and not cheap.
Also - material density boundaries reflect sound. A combination of different materials, like rubber on steel, will be most effective at blocking noise.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I purchased some dynamat extreme to go over the lizard skin before I saw the last few responses. So far, much better "sound" when you tap the body panels than with lizard skin alone. More dead, a lot less resonance.
So far have interior roof side covered, one door interior (outter skin only) and just finished tailgate. Will get the other door done then start on inside quarter panels. If I have enough left will do floors and firewall.
I may look at some of the tiles to get for the doors as well. I would them to the back side of the inner door skin. Need to get windows, locks etc. fitted to know how much space I have. Won't do full coverage but if I can will pick the larger flat surfaces to target.
Matt
83 Cherokee Laredo WT
L8T 6.6L, 6L90 GEN III LS Swap (LM7 block) 4L60E
Laredo Matt wrote: ↑Mon Dec 06, 2021 7:11 pm
Thanks for all the replies.
I purchased some dynamat extreme to go over the lizard skin before I saw the last few responses. So far, much better "sound" when you tap the body panels than with lizard skin alone. More dead, a lot less resonance.
So far have interior roof side covered, one door interior (outter skin only) and just finished tailgate. Will get the other door done then start on inside quarter panels. If I have enough left will do floors and firewall.
I may look at some of the tiles to get for the doors as well. I would them to the back side of the inner door skin. Need to get windows, locks etc. fitted to know how much space I have. Won't do full coverage but if I can will pick the larger flat surfaces to target.
Floors and firewall are important. The vibration and noise from the road comes through the floor and firewall more than the doors and quarter panels. The doors and roofs and tailgate are important to stop the vibrations/drum effect from bumps etc but just the hum of the road and engine you gotta do the floors and firewall.
1970 J4000 / Chevy Frankenstein in progress
Soon to be Lq4 6.0 and 4l80e on 35s
When I redid my interior, I pulled the carpet out, put Dynamat down then put vinyl flooring down. I didnt cover the floor a 100% with Dynamat.
I also put Dynamat in the doors and inner fenders.
I honestly didn't notice much of a difference.
When I repaint, I will use Lizardskin on the roof ( mainly for a thermal coating) and if my headliner ever needs replaced I will put Dynamat there.
Tomorrow we may face destiny, we may fight and die and fall to the fires of perdition, but tonight is ours, and we drink and make merry.
I'm doing this:
roof: dynamat, dynaliner
Doors outer: dynamat, dynaliner
Doors inner: dynamat
Firewall, floor: dynamat, dynaliner, carpet with mass backing
wheel wells: same as floor
quarter panel, same as doors, but with a thick block of hydrophobic foam in it
and everything that I put together where metal surfaces touch and are a threat to rattle: I make a small rubber gasket from a bike inner tube.
I'm completely allergic to rattles, so this thing is a challenge
1984 grand wagoneer
topaz gold | deep night blue,
AMC 360 v8 | 2019 5.7 hemi,
TF727 auto 3 speed | 8hp70 8 speed
nutmeg interior | sand or almond interior to be decided