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I was told my 77 Cherokee WT had a 4” lift kit from the company Superlift. The front is all leafs (marked Superlift on leafs) but the rear uses a block and what I think is Superlift’s overload leaf. I called Superlift and they had little information about the kit because of its age.
I just want to replace the rear with an all leaf spring setup but unsure of which leaf springs to get(in regards to how many inches). After taking some measurements, it looks like the rear currently uses the stock leaf springs, an aftermarket overload leaf (possibly Superlift’s) and a block that sits on the perch.
If I want to order an all leaf spring setup, which leaf springs do I need? How many inches? Am I over thinking this? Again, the claim was that this is a 4” lift kit.
I’ve added measurements in the pics. Just to be clear all these pics are of the rear as I just want to replace the rear leaf springs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by 77Chief77 on Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Best to not measure from the tire to fender, as every tire is different. Best to measure from the top of the axle to the frame on both sides, and then average them (incase you aren't on perfectly flat ground). That way tire size and body mount condition/body lift doesnt impact measurements.
For the lift block, measure the front also, in case its tapered for pinion angle.
It looks like you have stock rear springs, with a 2" block, and an add-a-leaf. So you may be looking at more like 3-3.5 inches of total lift. But thats hard to say because the current state of sag on those springs is unknown.
If you are wanting to replace the entire lift for a better ride ditch the blocks, there are several better lift kits out there. And a 4" should be close to what you have now.
I edited my original posts to clean up the pics. I also wanted to close the loop on this thread to help another leaf spring newb.
Thanks for the reply and the text line at BJ’s said the same pretty much. I’m at 12 3/4” so looks like I’ll need 4” leaf springs.
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Anyone know which leaf springs are best for having good road manners, comfort and best for daily driving? BJ's sells 3 options in 4" lift leaf springs. BDS, Skyjacker and BJ's
Skyjacker is known for having a nice ride. They are also a bit taller than some other 4" kits. Many are listed as 3-4" kits, the skyjacker is more of a 4-5" kit.
BDS has a pretty good reputation, although I have not used their stuff personally. I am not sure who BJs is using currently, they have had a few different manufacturers over the years. I would stay far away from Rough Country though, they live up to their name.
BJ’s uses Deaver Spring out of Santa Ana. I’ve always heard good things from Deaver. I’ll most likely order those with their heavy duty shackles. It’s going to be nice having fresh new tight components out back.
The BDS lift kit is very popular for CJs. They are one of the few offerings for the 1.75" wide springs used on the pre-76 CJs. My CJ-6 has BDS 2.5" lift springs. Ride good, fit well, give the lift they advertise. They stand behind their no-BS guarantee.
The parts book shows a 5-leaf rear spring rear spring for a 1977 model 17. These are supplied in both light and heavy, though heavy appears to be export only. There is only one GVWR of 6025 for all model 10s in 1977. The 4-leaf springs look original to me. Possible there was a single overload leaf previously that was removed to fit the aftermarket overload leaf.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Here’s the parts list so far. Hopefully it all fits together and all plug and play. Again I’m just doing the rears because the front all-leaf spring pack and poly bushings still look great.
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77Chief77 wrote:I was told my 77 Cherokee WT had a 4” lift kit from the company Superlift. The front is all leafs (marked Superlift on leafs) but the rear uses a block and what I think is Superlift’s overload leaf. I called Superlift and they had little information about the kit because of its age.
I just want to replace the rear with an all leaf spring setup but unsure of which leaf springs to get(in regards to how many inches). After taking some measurements, it looks like the rear currently uses the stock leaf springs, an aftermarket overload leaf (possibly Superlift’s) and a block that sits on the perch.
If I want to order an all leaf spring setup, which leaf springs do I need? How many inches? Am I over thinking this? Again, the claim was that this is a 4” lift kit.
I’ve added measurements in the pics. Just to be clear all these pics are of the rear as I just want to replace the rear leaf springs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Measuring lift i always go to center of hub to bottum of fender opening.
Re the center bolt, I have never looked for a spec. They hold the spring together until the clips are in place, and don't do anything other than align the pocket with the bolt head. The force from the clips in service is massive. I'd say good and tight with your ratchet.
Numbers for the clips looks right. I would not argue with the TSM. If that's not the TSM, the '77 TSM is online at the Tom Collins site. Check them after 100 miles or so.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I did not think of the spring packs being assembled, since you routinely need to add caster shims on CJs. My CJ-6 has caster shims and I used a new center bolt to install them. You won't need to do this on a rear axle unless you tilt the pinion up with tapered shims to adjust the driveshaft angles.
Also, your illustration shows the center bolt nut on the opposite side of the "tie plate," capturing the plate to the spring. In practice, this does not happen. The hole diameter clears the center bolt nut and the parts remain separate.
Seems that's from the TSM, and misleading. The parts book shows it correctly.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Thanks for chiming in fellas.
Yes, I got the specs and pics from Tom Collin's site.
In regards to the center bolt, I forgot it comes assembled (this is why I double check everything with you guys).
Yes, that is interesting that the illustration from the Tim Collin's site site shows the center bolt nut capturing the tie plate. That is misleading. This is where I got the illustration - https://oljeep.com/gw/77_tsm/16%201977% ... ension.pdf
Anyone know why they call it a U-bolt clip? I feel like they could leave the word "clip" out and just go with u-bolt haha