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I cannot seem to get the leak in my transfer case solved. In my '78 Wagoneer, shop has replaced the gasket twice. Seems to be holding and then after some time on the road it starts leaking again. Things will be all dry and then after an extended drive, it takes a dump on my driveway.
Anybody have some tips for getting this leak stopped?
What transfer case are we dealing with here? BW1339 Quadratrac or Dana 20?
-Jonny B.
1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
7" lift, 35x12.5x15
AMC 401 - Pro-FLo 4 FI
NV4500/NWFBB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker
1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
1979 Wagoneer - Sold
1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed
Is it a part time with ATF or the OEM with the special QT fluid. At least you can see if it is the trany of the QT?
But as usual you need to try to see the origin of the leak, crawl, clean and go for a ride, then crawl and inspect. In desperation you can add a UV dye and inspect in the evening.
If it has been converted to part time, the lock out switch indicator sender can be hard to secure if done by a shop, as the half case bolt is in the way, so you need to remove the bolt then tighten the lock out switch indicator, then reinstall the half case bolt.
When you check the level, how much is lost?
As usual make sure that it is the QT not the transmission!
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
There are a few leakage points on the 1339 Q-Trac.
There is an oil seal at the input section. It keeps oil in the case and if it leaks, will send oil into the adapter and leak out the weep hole located at the bottom side.
The front and rear output shaft seals can leak, but will stop once the oil level drops. They will continue to leak when driven due to the windage created by the gears and chain stirring up the oil.
There is the vacuum shifter and cover that can leak but being located at the upper portion of the case, will do so when driven but not at rest.
There is a vent that can spew oil at highway speeds but won't leak down since it is up on top as well.
There are fill and drain plugs that can leak but that is somewhat rare.
The speedometer drive can leak, but again, only at speed.
Lastly, there is the case half mating surface and low range unit or cover that can leak.
Case half leaks are very common especially after someone has been inside the unit and did a poor job of sealing things back up.
I would lean toward output seals or case half as the most probable cause of the leak.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
Finally found the problem. Small hairline crack in the case. Which explains why the leak shows up after long drives, gets hot and opens up then closes up after cooling off.
Tatsadasayago wrote: ↑Thu Jan 21, 2016 2:41 pm
The speedometer drive can leak, but again, only at speed.
Bumping an old thread because I'm dealing with this right now and can't find any reference to the seal, a photo of the seal or whatever it is that I need to replace to get this thing to stop leaking. It's coming out the cable end, between the cable and the screw cap that you screw down onto the Quadratrac speedo gear threaded "fitting".
I have the FSM but don't see anything other than the exploded diagram which just shows the speedometer gear fitting. As it is, there's just the metal "flange" of the speedo cable sitting down on top of the speedometer gear fitting.
may be a hairline crack or a slightly too tight speedo cable... the quick and dirty is to clean up the area and spatter a layer of grey silicone gasket maker... not the best, but the fastest... it works on my motorcycle tach cable which is attached at the head.
Post edit: may the knurled nut has a slight crack...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
In fact, looking for some picts, there is an o ring after your pull the whole gearing mechanism
Pict to follow
you pull the cable after loosening the knurl nut
you need to clean all that dirt, as the whole unit will need to be removed to access the O-ring... after cleaning you will notice numbering on the periphery of the gear holder which need to be keep aligned, as it is the combo for your gearing
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
letank wrote: ↑Fri Sep 10, 2021 3:45 pm
In fact, looking for some picts, there is an o ring after your pull the whole gearing mechanism
Pict to follow
you pull the cable after loosening the knurl nut
you need to clean all that dirt, as the whole unit will need to be removed to access the O-ring... after cleaning you will notice numbering on the periphery of the gear holder which need to be keep aligned, as it is the combo for your gearing
Sorry, it is not a QT
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)