Rebuilding Doors from the Inside Out

[pyro]

My doors are shot, from the outside lock cylinders to the inside panels. I thought it would be easier to keep everything in one thread for anyone else who has to travel down this route. I'll post the prices and pics once i purchase the parts i need.
So far the parts I figured i need are:
Master weatherstrip kit (teamgrandwagoneer.com) - $299 10/7/12
Manual window regulators ($20) - parts truck 9/23/12 (came with windows, cranks and lifters)
Window Cranks (teamgradnwagonneer.com) - $9 x2
Rebuild inner-panels (local shop) -
Repair door locks (knobs won't stay up, outside lock cylinders and both inside handles don't work either) -

[Stuka]

Here is the part that goes on the bottom of the window:

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-77.htm

Unfortunately they only have a single one left. Jeep no longer makes them and I do not know of anybody else that sells them.

[pyro]

thats no good...there is a guy here locally parting out a j10 with a "good" interior so maybe that is an alternative for me. what do people do otherwise, just have "pull up" windows like i have now?

[Stuka]

You should be able to find working ones pretty easily. It is not common for them to out right fail. The ones in my old '75 and my current '81 work fine.

[Tad]

The door lock knob falling down (self locking FSJ door) is caused by a small spring in there breaking/falling off.
One of the members here...
http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/memberlist. ... file&u=671
...makes, or used to make replacements that worked very well.
Worth a shot to contact and ask, I think the only other place I have seen them were on BJ's.

[pyro]

any idea what could be causing my inside handles to not work? i can see that they move the attached arm, however i'm lost after that.

[pyro]

bump...trying to finish up the doors this week and update with pics. any ideas on why the interior handles aren't working?

[carnuck]

there should be slots for adjustment. IIRC, you can put them upside down so they go the wrong way too.

[Stuka]

My guess is the joints are worn out enough that is causing them to not pull enough on the latch, making it not fully move. But thats more of a guess.

[Road Trip]

The outside cylinder is connected to the latch by a small rod. It could be disconnected. The door handle when lifted should pull the arm that goes to the door latch. It could be disconnected. it is relatively easy to pull it out and check it once you get the door panel off the inside. The spring on the door lock as mentioned earlier is probably the culprit there. Let us know what you find.

[pyro]

My guess is the joints are worn out enough that is causing them to not pull enough on the latch, making it not fully move. But thats more of a guess.

The outside cylinder is connected to the latch by a small rod. It could be disconnected. The door handle when lifted should pull the arm that goes to the door latch. It could be disconnected. it is relatively easy to pull it out and check it once you get the door panel off the inside. The spring on the door lock as mentioned earlier is probably the culprit there. Let us know what you find.

heres what i'm looking at...when i turn the handle the bar and upper arm appear to be working, however there is not enough reach to push down on the latch (pictured). what needs to be adjusted? i also included a side pic of the cylinder area as well for reference.

[Stuka]

It's not adjustable, but I bet the bushings in the joints are shot. Looking at the first photo the pin is not centered in the joint. So looks to be a buildup of tolerances.


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[carnuck]

Actually, there is an adjustment at the inside handle with the screws that hold it on. I'd spray lube the heck out of the mechanism too.

[Stuka]

Actually, there is an adjustment at the inside handle with the screws that hold it on. I'd spray lube the heck out of the mechanism too.

You are right, there is some movement there. And he may be able to get enough to make up for any slop in the rest of it.

[pyro]

thanks ill check into it tomorrow and report back.

[whsii]

Above is the drawing from the TSM manual, 1980.

If the arm from the inside latch handle is bent, it could flex and not allow the inside latch to move far enough to release.

I cannot get to my doors at this time, but was wondering if the inside handle would unlock the mechanism if the lock button was depressed? If the spring is broken in the inside latch and the lock button falls to lock position, this might not let the inside handle unlock the mechanism and bend the rod.

When rebuilding mine, one door was starting to give trouble, after I lubricated the mechanism and straightened the rod, it works like new.

Just my thoughts...

[Nealmartin97]

Bump... looking at that pic above I can see the part I’m needing is called the “remote control”. I’ve searched the forum with little luck and ordered a part that I thought would fit with no luck. So I’m looking for some help finding a replacement for this. It’s the drivers side and i drilled out the rivers that held it to the bar because I figured I could always just stick a bolt thru it. Splines are jacked and I guess the screw that holds the inner door handle on broke off inside. Any advice on where to get a new one?