Trans/transfer troubleshoot

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Anvil-3
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:13 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by Anvil-3 »

Does anyone know a good way or resource for how to check my 727 and np229 to make sure they are serviceable short of tearing them down? I got my 89 GW running but it wouldn’t move after installing a new to me transmission. I think a new torque converter will fix the problem but I want to make sure that the transfer case and transmission are in general working order…

I would assume I need to vacuum check the valve body, but honestly this has gotten me stumped… Transmissions are my weaknesses and I need some help.

Thanks everyone!


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1989 Grand Wagoneer - under the knife

89_Wagon
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Re: Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by 89_Wagon »

If you could find a way to turn the input shaft on the t case and then observe that the output shaft moves, that would do. On the transmission, same deal but in gear.

Just some other checks that would help in diagnosis....

Is there enough transmission fluid in it?

Is the T-Case in neutral?

Can you push the car while it's in gear? In park?
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dodgerammit
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Re: Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by dodgerammit »

2nd the fluid level comment. If the transmission is cold then the "full" level will be waaaayyyy higher than the full mark on the dipstick. The transfer case can also be in neutral as mentioned.
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

92 Wrangler Islander 4.0/32RH/231 D30/D35 RHD

Topic author
Anvil-3
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Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:13 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by Anvil-3 »

Thanks for the input

My biggest concern is this transmission was sitting dry in the trunk for 15years and might be frozen up. Couldn’t seem to find a “park” I was always able to push it


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will e
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Re: Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by will e »

The TF727 doesn't have a vacuum modulator.

15 years is a long time for a transmission to be sitting. Inside seals are probably shot. Personally, I wouldn't trust it even if it did move on its own.
81 Waggy 'WILL E' Retired
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letank
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Re: Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by letank »

As said check the oil level when the engine is running... transmission in neutral... after adding enough oil to be in between add a pint and max, shift thru all the gears, 1, 2, Neutral keeping the gear for 15 seconds... recheck the oil level to be between add a pint and Max, oil expand when hot.

Next make sure that the transfer case lever is not between High and low, switch to 4wd, then to low... and try to move 3 or 4 feet on a straight line, reverse to high, then to 2 WD...

In the end oil does not really dry up unless your run out of it! Even on a dry transmission, the oil is pretty much sticking to anything it gets in touch with! the trans needs a little work out in your driveway!

For the little story I have a project sitting for many years at a time, it gets cranked every year... and moved 100 feet back and forth or so... last time it was a 1/4 mile... it ran very well, at one time it did not move.... oil was a bit low!
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)

Topic author
Anvil-3
Posts: 144
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2020 7:13 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by Anvil-3 »

So the transmission appears to be in good reman shape, I’ll pop the new torque converter in and make valve body adjustments if it ends up needed.

The transfer case continued to confuse me and not seem to obey the shifters… after fingering the drain hole I pulled out a lot of plastic, stringy metal and magnetic goop…

Image

Once I got the case torn down I found some bearings and seals that I’ll freshen up but I think I found the cause, the “mode fork” was eaten up with the pads destroyed Image

The input thrust bearing is also just gone, 100% not there, my main concern is what appears to be wear on the case. Do other peoples input seat look to be this deep? Not sure if this is worn or just how she sits.Image

Thankfully it looks like parts are not too pricey as long as the case is good…

Has anyone used transmission parts distributors? Not sure if it’s a legit site, but their prices and parts available is hard to beat after shopping around.


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dodgerammit
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Re: Trans/transfer troubleshoot

Post by dodgerammit »

That goop looks to be the silicone viscous clutch fluid. I know you don't want to hear this, but that case is probably on it's way out and there are no sources for that viscous clutch.

I'd find a used one, or a good 228 (no viscous clutch to go bad). Those will bolt right in and be a cheaper option than rebuilding yours.

A 208 for these rigs will bolt in as well provided you also have the driveshafts that go with the 208.

I went with a 242 from a ZJ/XJ as those can be made to work with the long input and a shifter kit. They definitely need a new rear driveshaft. The ones from most of the ZJs/XJs also can use the stock FSJ front shaft as long as they are set up for the 1310 UJoint on the front output.
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

92 Wrangler Islander 4.0/32RH/231 D30/D35 RHD
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