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On my 77J10 I’ve been battling excessive positive camber for a long time. Just replaced the ball joints and the problem is now much, much worse. If I understand the system correctly camber can’t be adjusted on this style system.
So, how do you fix it? It’s wearing the outer edge of the tires out at an alarming rate.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
Have you had the toe checked. Too much will wear the outside of the tread.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Yeah, what Stucka said. Something is bent. You can address some of the Camber issue via the Caster adjustment by moving the position relative to center--center of the wheel to the point on the road I should say.
Check youtube how to check/adjust camber, as there are lots of folks who own these old trucks, who do their own sucessfully.
Not all that hard to do!
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
Grand_Wag_85 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 10:03 am
I guess the first step should be getting it on an alignment rack.
With alignment numbers we can certainly guide you the right direction.
I do a lot of my own alignments but on stuff I road drive a lot I still have it checked to check my work, I'm usually within tolerance close, but sometimes I miss stuff or have a poor reference point.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
If they changed the toe-in, they should center the steering. Part of the alignment. I'd take it back.
What's the factory spec for each of these? You can find it at the end of the chapter for Steering and Suspension in the TSM. I would check those against the values their machine says are nominal.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
You were toed way out before, which basically makes the vehicle understeer more, which results in a less precise steering feel. You are now toed in. Which will make initial turn in more direct. Compared to how it was before, it probably will feel more "darty", but thats more inline with how it should be from the factory.
As tgreese mentioned, they should have centered the steering wheel. The alignment machine actually checks that. They put a reflector on the steering wheel and the machine checks to see if its centered. So, they obviously skipped that part. Its a very easy fix if you wanted to do it yourself. But its worth asking them too since they should have done it anyway.
I would be very happy with the final alignment numbers. Is does need a bit more camber and is probably aggravating the darty feel. I’m sure with the toe out it was even worse looking. If you want to fix the camber this will let you do that, will require resetting the toe after install.
Definitely going to go back to get the wheel straightened out.
If I was to do the ball joint shims, is the install procedure the same as the stock ones? IE: torque to 50FT LBS and forget it or is there an additional procedure? Also, can these be done without dropping the knuckles? I don’t see any reason why not since they go from the top but I could be wrong.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
They are orientation specific. But otherwise are similar to installing regular balljoints.
With negative camber on a solid axle, it most likely means you have bent C's or the housing itself is tweaked. Not entirely uncommon for a 40 year old truck.
Stuka wrote: ↑Wed Aug 03, 2022 3:54 pm
They are orientation specific. But otherwise are similar to installing regular balljoints.
With negative camber on a solid axle, it most likely means you have bent C's or the housing itself is tweaked. Not entirely uncommon for a 40 year old truck.
Makes sense. The previous owners were definitely not overly kind to it and I’ve put it thru some hell myself.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
Odd that you had neg toe (and camber) but were wearing the outside of the tires.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.