Bellcrank source?

[Stuka]

Hmm, The T176 bell might have a different depth than the original bellhousing. If that is in a different place front to rear, you may need to change the bell housing side bracket to make up for that. otherwise the bell crank will be at an angle.

[Phils67]

Yeah I'm kind of a bastard child here. Wish I could revert back honestly.

[tgreese]

JMO - I would look for a wreck to take all the linkage from, and start from there. I went to car-part.com and searched for a 1979 J-series manual transmission. On a nation-wide search, I got dozens of hits - one of those yards may be near the OP and still have the truck sitting in the yard. Note that parts from a Wagoneer or Cherokee will be the same, though there are more pickups with manual transmission than wagons.

I would try different years and equipment, like 6 and V8, 3-speed and 4-speed. This stuff is pretty much unchanged '73-79. You'll need to avoid the '72 with a cable clutch, but the rest back to '65 should be ok. Check the parts book. Certainly the V8 engine-side bracket will be different, but he's already modified the drivetrain position from original, so I think there will be no real bolt-in solution, without some tweaking. IMO if you get the bellcrank tube length right, the rest of the stuff will more or less be ok or can be modified to work. From the OP's posts, he's well capable of adapting these non-standard parts to his purpose.

[Phils67]

I already came ro the conclusion il have to make the firewall side bracket, which is no problem. I really just need the proper length bellcrank part. The bushings, boots, etc are still available. As far as linkages, again, I can make my own. Actually now that I think about it, I could probably get some tubing and make the bellcrnak itself as well worst case scenario. Realistically it just a metal tube with two tabs coming off of it in different positions and a zerk tapped into the shaft

[Phils67]

The more I think about it, I may just go the route of building my own. Can anyone tell me the outside diameter of the bellcrank itself? I think if I find the correct tube diameter inside and out I can use the available bushings, boots etc. and weld my tabs where I feel they need to be for my setup, make my linkages and bracketry and call it a day. I've been looking at it and it really is a very simplistic design. This shouldn't be rocket science.

[tgreese]

The tubing ID is machined to the bushing OD. Each end has two slots that accept the retaining clip. Put the boot on the pivot, the bushing snaps onto the pivot ball, the tube slides over, clip goes in and the boot is rolled over it all.

I can get you some rough measurements later. The picture I posted previously should give you an idea of the dimensions.

[Phils67]

The tubing ID is machined to the bushing OD. Each end has two slots that accept the retaining clip. Put the boot on the pivot, the bushing snaps onto the pivot ball, the tube slides over, clip goes in and the boot is rolled over it all.

I can get you some rough measurements later. The picture I posted previously should give you an idea of the dimensions.

Cool thanks. I already have the frame side bracket, it's different than yours but that shouldn't matter. I didn't realize the trans side bracket bolted to the bellhousing, I thought it bolted to the firewall but that actually simplifies designing one as well I think.

[tgreese]

Hi - I have not forgotten your measurements. I went out to the truck with a tape, but I need to get under to do this. Since this post, the days I've been available and remembered have been raining or snowing. The holidays will interfere over the next few days - maybe next week.

[Phils67]

Hi - I have not forgotten your measurements. I went out to the truck with a tape, but I need to get under to do this. Since this post, the days I've been available and remembered have been raining or snowing. The holidays will interfere over the next few days - maybe next week.

It's ok, you dont have to worry about it. I'm going to design my own, then I know it will work for my application. After looking at your pics I feel like I'd be better off doing that. Its such a simple design, plus, it gives me another reason to play with my Millermatic 211 that hasn't seen as much use as I'd have liked since purchasing it lol

[blthomas]

I expect the tube of the CJ bellcrank will be too short. The CJ frame is way narrower than the pickup, and I recall that the tube is shorter. I have one of each to look at, if you need a measurement.

Here's the 258 setup from my J10 -

J10bellcrank.jpg

I kinda think you will be better off with this later style. There are some differences - the pushrods bolt to both ends of the bellcrank, and each end is supported by a ball and plastic bushing that goes into the tube, rather than out of it. The supporting brackets will be easier to fab and the design is more compatible with the CJ parts that are available today. Note that the CJ pushrods are smaller diameter than the pickup, using 3/8" rod instead of the 7/16" rod seen here. The CJs all came with a 10.5" clutch, whereas the V8 J-trucks use an 11" clutch.

tgreese, I came across this thread doing research on how my shift linkage and Bell crank should look on my 80 Cherokee.

I already see a issue as my Bell crank "arms" are clocked differently. Is there anyway you could get me a pic of how your adjustment arm where it goes from Bell crank to shift fork looks from the side?

Also curious on how the spring is right there. My shift fork seems loose at the transmission. I've got a mismash of CJ and FSJ bits I think.

Many thanks if you see this.

[blthomas]

I expect the tube of the CJ bellcrank will be too short. The CJ frame is way narrower than the pickup, and I recall that the tube is shorter. I have one of each to look at, if you need a measurement.

Here's the 258 setup from my J10 -

J10bellcrank.jpg

I kinda think you will be better off with this later style. There are some differences - the pushrods bolt to both ends of the bellcrank, and each end is supported by a ball and plastic bushing that goes into the tube, rather than out of it. The supporting brackets will be easier to fab and the design is more compatible with the CJ parts that are available today. Note that the CJ pushrods are smaller diameter than the pickup, using 3/8" rod instead of the 7/16" rod seen here. The CJs all came with a 10.5" clutch, whereas the V8 J-trucks use an 11" clutch.

tgreese, I came across this thread doing research on how my shift linkage and Bell crank should look on my 80 Cherokee. It's a 258 T17* rig.

I already see a issue as my Bell crank "arms" are clocked differently. Is there anyway you could get me a pic of how your adjustment arm where it goes from Bell crank to shift fork looks from the side?

Also curious on how the spring is right there. My shift fork seems loose at the transmission. I've got a mismash of CJ and FSJ bits I think.

Many thanks if you see this.

[tgreese]

I have a '77 with a 258 with T-15 3-speed and an '82 with a V8 with T-18 truck 4-speed. 1980 was a watershed year where nearly everything changes. Neither of my vehicles match your Cherokee. My suggestion - you get the '74-80 factory parts book and look at the drawings for an '80 Cherokee. Might not be enough, but it would match what you have. You can infer a lot from what parts overlap with your and other applications.

Considering the distances between the frame rails and the engine and seating position in a CJ and a FSJ, it seems unlikely that any parts can be adapted across these platforms. The rod design is different, and the rods are heavier on the FSJ, compared to the CJ. If your bell crank spans the distance between the pedal rod and frame, and pushes mostly straight-on to the release arm, it's probably right. Likely the bearing cups, clips and pivots are the same across vehicles, though they may have changed for 1980. Lots of parts change for 1980.

[blthomas]

I have a '77 with a 258 with T-15 3-speed and an '82 with a V8 with T-18 truck 4-speed. 1980 was a watershed year where nearly everything changes. Neither of my vehicles match your Cherokee. My suggestion - you get the '74-80 factory parts book and look at the drawings for an '80 Cherokee. Might not be enough, but it would match what you have. You can infer a lot from what parts overlap with your and other applications.

Considering the distances between the frame rails and the engine and seating position in a CJ and a FSJ, it seems unlikely that any parts can be adapted across these platforms. The rod design is different, and the rods are heavier on the FSJ, compared to the CJ. If your bell crank spans the distance between the pedal rod and frame, and pushes mostly straight-on to the release arm, it's probably right. Likely the bearing cups, clips and pivots are the same across vehicles, though they may have changed for 1980. Lots of parts change for 1980.

My apologies for not replying, I thought I had posted this in a facebook group, then couldn't find it. Assumed it had been deleted. So I made a new facebook post, and found this researching info on bellcranks.

I bought a factory fsm. The diagrams are show I have SJ frame side, CJ bell side brackets. If I bolt it up like the FSM shows, its on a angle, not square to the frame like yours appears to be.

I made a spacer to attempt to square it up, but it really enlongates the pushrod to the fork. This pic is from when I was going through it in the spring and 1st realized this setup is wrong. The PO did a lot of hack work. Thanks for your input man. Hard to find info on these things easily.

[78 WIDETRAC]

Blt

If you look at your frame bracket. It looks like you have room to just drill a new hole in it to match the height of the bell housing bracket. Biggest problem is the it is not a round hole, it has a flat spot allow the bolt to be tightened. That frame bracket is the same one I have on my 360 4 Spd set up. Best to source the correct unattainable bracket. I found clutch linkage for FSJ's on ebay. You might get lucky. ebay user name dead jeeps have some listed now. Or message them, they have tons of jeep parts.

Look at the pic Tim posted of his linkage, the center of the bell crank is closer to the frame because his type of frame bracket is what you really need if you want to do it with factory parts.

[Finis]

Americanpartsdepot has AMC replacement parts. The internal bushings, the boots and the clip. They probably have the whole assembly. The arms are the correct orientation. The distance from engine to frame may be different. The motor and frame brackets are the same. This is a good source for AMC motor and surrounding parts. Power steering, water pump, etc.

[pksjeep]

you might look at https://www.thejeepsterman.com/. It looks like they may have some stuff.
You could possibly take a shorter bell crank tube and the weld a sleeve between the 2 halves to extend it. That way you could use some stock parts at the tabs for the clutch petal and clutch fork push rods, and tube bushing ends.
Paul