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My first questions have to do with the engine compartment. The PO replaced the carburetor and I suppose that accounts for some of the cut lines and wires, but tell me what you think. TIA
1986 Grand Wagoneer
1982 J10 4.2 equipped, 4 speed
South East USA
You need to cap that return fuel line. Is the metal line with the little bit of rubber line on it (not the one with the bolt). Typically the fuel filter would have a two outputs, the small one goes to the return line.
Otherwise the wires look kind of messy. But hard to say what is no longer used, and what is messy from this shot.
Depending on what your needs are, you may want to put back what's been removed, or keep/discard some set of the emissions devices. Typically mods to these systems by POs are uninformed hackery. The only zero-effort zero-research approach is to keep everything as the factory intended. Everything else requires some understanding of purpose and effect of the devices. Any mods will have side effects that may or may not be safe/dangerous or have the intended outcome.
Thanks for the welcome and the advice. I’m reading through the TSM, trying to isolate the 4.2 version of the ‘82 model and then become familiar with it enough to find what POs changed. I’ll update my profile and I’m certain I’m got to have many, many more questions.
1986 Grand Wagoneer
1982 J10 4.2 equipped, 4 speed
South East USA
I'm sorry to just dump that on you, but I suspect straightening out a 258 from this era will be a pain. It sure looks like the PO (previous owner) has left a mess for you to clean up. From the factory, I believe they had the "electronic" carburetor with a stepper-motor controlled idle jets. If you look through the TSM, that's called the feedback system.
The 258 is a great engine, but they were saddled with all this complicated stuff in the 80s. The 258 came with the Carter BBD 2V, which it looks like you still have. Possible that the PO replaced the "electronic" BBD with an earlier conventional BBD. A better picture with the air cleaner off will help. The BBD has a poor reputation generally, though in its conventional form it's probably not as bad as all that.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
More fun. I took a couple more photos and fried a wire while I was at it. The red wire smoked (second picture, lower part of the loom, you can see the heat damage.) after I turned off the engine until I completely removed the key.
1986 Grand Wagoneer
1982 J10 4.2 equipped, 4 speed
South East USA
tgreese wrote: ↑Sat Jul 17, 2021 5:01 pm
Not sure what your issue is. I would point out that removing the key does not necessarily shut off the problem.
Strongly suggest you obtain the proper '82 schematic and trace it back. No telling what the PO has done.
BTW that is definitely a BBD.
Thanks.
1986 Grand Wagoneer
1982 J10 4.2 equipped, 4 speed
South East USA
Today I had a chance to explore further. The frame is crusty, but no holes or rust that compromises it. I’ll get after it with a wheel and some POR15 when I have a chance. I’ve looked at every J10 rear suspension picture I could find and the parts catalog & TSM and couldn’t locate this spring. Looks like the work of a PO. Also I found my spare tire bracket is missing.
1986 Grand Wagoneer
1982 J10 4.2 equipped, 4 speed
South East USA
For the spare tire stuff, I'd try the WTB (want to buy) forum here and at IFSJA. Possible you could find it at a wrecking yard - there are a few specialist yards that likely would have it, maybe one near you.
The key in the ignition would stick in its movement and the door locks didn’t work, so I changed the set. I don’t know if the ignition key getting stuck had anything to do with the wire in the engine compartment frying. I’ve yet to get any further on wiring in general and I don’t mind admitting I find it intimidating.
I found the vapor line (I assume, it runs under the center of the bed and disappears above the fuel tank) terminates open, above the starter in the engine compartment. It looks like all the erg system is gone so there’s nowhere to hook it. Seems leaving it open like that is dangerous, so what should I do?
Also, I’ve been working on all the drips and seepage underneath. Replaced the gaskets on both diffs and replaced the leaking power steering lines. Is it possible to change the rear main and pan gasket with the engine in the truck? Ive seen it done on the smaller Jeeps, but not the full size.
Thanks again, you’ve all been very helpful.
1986 Grand Wagoneer
1982 J10 4.2 equipped, 4 speed
South East USA
You could
- replace the vapor recovery parts and reconnect it. You can use a canister from another application. I have an XJ canister in my J20.
- plug it either at the gas tank or under the hood, and run a vented gas cap (assuming your current cap is not vented).
- run it up high in the bed and terminate in a fuel filter with one end open. There is a cover plate for the filler that you could hide the vent in.
Seems you are mixing up the EGR exhaust gas recirculation (erg?) and vapor recovery. They are both emissions related but otherwise completely different.
Yes to the rear main and pan gasket. Should be (comparatively) easy for a 258. No exhaust crossover like a V8.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote: ↑Sat Aug 21, 2021 9:19 am
You could
- replace the vapor recovery parts and reconnect it. You can use a canister from another application. I have an XJ canister in my J20.
- plug it either at the gas tank or under the hood, and run a vented gas cap (assuming your current cap is not vented).
- run it up high in the bed and terminate in a fuel filter with one end open. There is a cover plate for the filler that you could hide the vent in.
Seems you are mixing up the EGR exhaust gas recirculation (erg?) and vapor recovery. They are both emissions related but otherwise completely different.
Yes to the rear main and pan gasket. Should be (comparatively) easy for a 258. No exhaust crossover like a V8.
Great! Thanks so much!
1986 Grand Wagoneer
1982 J10 4.2 equipped, 4 speed
South East USA