Just got my 1982 J10 home….. questions…

[Swbtwo]

a bit late... but usually one wire shorts and take the other near by wires with it... Yes, duct tape is OEM, usually by the resistor wire for the coil but you can figure it out by the color, may be the ammeter wire, if you still have the ammeter, time to do the bypass.

I had to do the same things a few months ago... I removed the electrical tape and separated the melted wires.... then did a replacement for a bit longer than the damaged length... stagger the connectors so the loom can be put back on or buy a wider loom

Thanks for the help.

[Swbtwo]

Glad I could help. If you go with the Redline kit, I'd point out that the population size of FSJs with the 258 and stepper-motor BBD is small compared to the number of CJs that were sold with this combo. If you have issues, you might broaden your search to include that community. I recall the site owner Stuka has or had a J10 with the 258 and Redline conversion.

If it were for me, I would skip the carburetor replacement and go direct to fuel injection. (I would convert my Jeeps but there are too many demands on my time currently. No time for car projects and too many cars.) There are several conversion kits for this application, including Holley Sniper and Howell. The Sniper seems well liked, and seems to be as close as you can get to a true bolt-on conversion. Most of the others use the GM Rochester TBI (throttle body injection) parts adapted to the specific engine.

There are also vendors like Bill Hamilton that will tailor a system to your engine using the GM parts. This can include advanced features like spark control and a knock sensor that will be missing on an "electronic carburetor" like Holley or Howell. The advantage of the GM parts is easy sourcing and replacement in the field, compared to a custom system like the Holley Sniper.

If you have the original distributor, I would point out that the only difference between it (the Duraspark) and the GM HEI is packaging. Same operating principle, same capability, one is Ford and the other is Chevy. You can mix and match components between them. One popular change is "Stealth HEI" where you hollow out the Duraspark module and install the HEI module inside the empty case. Completely compatible.

I’ll make a decision on FI or the redline kit after I’ve straightened out the wiring. I have to admit the fuel pump installation for the FI has me nervous. Thanks again for all the help.

[Swbtwo]

I’m tearing into the wiring harness. This is the circuit with all the damage. 13B, from the splice to the distributor and solenoid. It’s pretty thin gauge. Would it make sense to replace it with something thicker? It’s probably not weird to anyone but me, but the wire is marked “resistor, do not cut or splice” and it came from the factory with two or three splices.



There numerous other damaged wires, but they all appear to be part of the carburetor system.

[tgreese]

13B is a resistance wire, a single-strand nichrome wire. You mustn't replace it with a regular copper wire. You should reuse it and cover it with new plastic sleeve, if that is damaged. Wire 13E bypasses the resistance wire while the solenoid is energized.

There are several splices in the wiring harness. Typically they are covered with silver duct tape. Only the section of wire between the two slices is resistance wire. You must splice each end of the resistance wire; only a splice will work, since the nichrome won't take solder. You cannot shorten the resistance wire - that will change the resistance that it adds to the circuit.

[Swbtwo]

13B is a resistance wire, a single-strand nichrome wire. You mustn't replace it with a regular copper wire. You should reuse it and cover it with new plastic sleeve, if that is damaged. Wire 13E bypasses the resistance wire while the solenoid is energized.

There are several splices in the wiring harness. Typically they are covered with silver duct tape. Only the section of wire between the two slices is resistance wire. You must splice each end of the resistance wire; only a splice will work, since the nichrome won't take solder. You cannot shorten the resistance wire - that will change the resistance that it adds to the circuit.

The resistor wire’s cover is almost completely gone. I’ll look into how sleeves are replaced. Are 13E and 13D regular wires spliced in? Is there something specific that might have melted the resistor wire, like the solenoid? Is it possible to replace the resistor wire with a copper wire and a 1.35 ohm resistor?

[tgreese]

You can buy "spaghetti tubing" many places. Today it's typically teflon - here's one place that I've bought from: https://www.hndme.com/collection/pc/vie ... ategory=64

Yes, all the other lengths are regular stranded copper wire, "primary wire." https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/elect ... y+wire,144 The diagram tells you the color and the gauge, "18" is 18 gauge. You can use that size or larger, though too large will become bulky and expensive.

Hard to say without the Jeep. Something is shorted to ground. The solenoid seems unlikely to me - that's easy to test with your multimeter, or test it for function.

Yes, you can replace the nichrome wire with a discrete resistor. You'd need a "ballast resistor" like this one. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 52&jsn=473 Typically they are mounted to the firewall in the engine compartment.

[tgreese]

Coming back to this, if the electric choke or idle stop solenoid wires are involved, would suspect those over the coil power wires. Looking at your diagram, 13F and 13A are 10 ga wires, and any smaller downstream wires are going to melt long before they do.

How would I proceed? First, I would separate the burnt wires and look for any obvious place along their length where they might have shorted to the body steel, or to another connection or wire. Lacking that, I'd clip-lead together any wires that are burnt through and start measuring resistances to ground. If resistance to ground is zero, start unplugging or otherwise removing connections and see if you can make the short go away. Divide and conquer until you isolate the problem.

Let's assume you can't find and recognize the source of the short using your multimeter I would get a blank sheet of paper and, starting from the burnt section, draw out everything that connects to those wires. Compare your drawing to the Jeep, and look for conflicts. Then start testing and inspecting everything that connects.

[Swbtwo]

Coming back to this, if the electric choke or idle stop solenoid wires are involved, would suspect those over the coil power wires. Looking at your diagram, 13F and 13A are 10 ga wires, and any smaller downstream wires are going to melt long before they do.

How would I proceed? First, I would separate the burnt wires and look for any obvious place along their length where they might have shorted to the body steel, or to another connection or wire. Lacking that, I'd clip-lead together any wires that are burnt through and start measuring resistances to ground. If resistance to ground is zero, start unplugging or otherwise removing connections and see if you can make the short go away. Divide and conquer until you isolate the problem.

Let's assume you can't find and recognize the source of the short using your multimeter I would get a blank sheet of paper and, starting from the burnt section, draw out everything that connects to those wires. Compare your drawing to the Jeep, and look for conflicts. Then start testing and inspecting everything that connects.

Sounds like a plan.

[Swbtwo]

Perhaps a dumb question (or just another dumb question, I suppose) but if I replace the distributor with an HEI unit, do I still need a resistor wire? If I understand correctly the resistor wire is there to reduce the voltage to preserve the points. So no points, no need the resistor wire?

[Swbtwo]

Anyone recognize this logo?

[tgreese]

Omix-Ada, I'd guess. https://www.omix-ada.com/

[tgreese]

Perhaps a dumb question (or just another dumb question, I suppose) but if I replace the distributor with an HEI unit, do I still need a resistor wire? If I understand correctly the resistor wire is there to reduce the voltage to preserve the points. So no points, no need the resistor wire?

An '82 already has no points. It's a Ford Duraspark distributor and ignition module. The ballast wire protects the ignition module from excess coil current. Ballast resistors were also used on points distributors for the same reason, to limit the coil current. Electrically it's complicated, but the coil discharge is most like an LRC circuit.

You can use the HEI module with the Duraspark distributor - they are mostly compatible. If you look for "Stealth HEI" you'll find articles about using the Duraspark distributor with the GM HEI module. That's what I'm running on my CJ-6.

The HEI module does not need the ballast wire. It limits coil current internally, so it connects to both power and coil with plain copper wire. The HEI distributor is not really an upgrade from the Ford distributor; in terms of features it's a downgrade. The Ford module has additional capability from the HEI, retarding the spark when cranking for easier starting. Apparently this is a common feature of modern fuel injection systems which include spark control.

JMO - on face, the Ford approach to this with an external resistor seems better than the GM approach to put the current limiting internal to the module. Any resistance will drop voltage and create heat. I would prefer to keep the module cooler and have the resistance outboard. Dunno, maybe GM used some super big-current-tolerating or extra-heat-resistant transistors in the module. The original Delco modules seem to be the best, if you can find a good one. Or pay extra for a MSD module, which is likely made to a higher standard than current aftermarket ones.

The only functional advantage for the HEI is in the hotter coil, and the big cap and wires. Jeep used the low-end conventional parts, but the "high-energy" parts are available for the Duraspark. You can easily add these to a Duraspark distributor by choice of replacement parts. Look up "TFI upgrade."

I'd guess GM had a patent on the all-in-one distributor, but the Ford system is functionally identical. Same physical principle, same parts, mounted separately. Initially the 250 cid inline 6 did not use the coil-under-the-cap version of the HEI, seemingly because mounting the heavy coil inside the distributor at an angle on the side of the inline 6 was too much stress on the cap and such. Apparently GM felt the coil-in-cap design had limits, if not mounted flat and level like on a Chevy V8.

[Swbtwo]

Replaced my starter solenoid after checking the ohms S to ground and seeing the reading stay dead and then jump all over the place. I suppose I should have seen it coming.




The fried wires are 13C, 13D and 13E and 13B heated up enough to burn off the cover and damage a few near by wires. Sounds like the culprit has been found, right? Meanwhile I’m looking for other wires 13B damaged so I can repair/replace.

Also, I’ve found my neg battery cable is garbage and the ground to the engine looks worn out. Even the solenoid to starter wire looks like it needs to be replaced. The green connector is to the distributor. What’s with the tar looking stuff on the connections?

[tgreese]

The bulkhead connector is likely ok. That brown goop is dielectric grease, used to prevent corrosion. They all seem to be that color. If you want to clean it, use some very mild solvent and a soft brush. Nothing that could damage the plastic. Then put it back together with new grease (available on amazon).

The distributor connectors and ignition module connections are often green. This seems to be a universal issue with these distributors. I suggest contact cleaner and a flux brush or a chip brush; you can get a big packet of brushes at Harbor Freight, or more expensively at the big box store. Lots of different contact cleaner products online. I use this one for general cleaning - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF ... UTF8&psc=1 - it used to be a lot cheaper. Deoxit is really good, but expensive - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxI ... LVEU&psc=1 MG is said to be good too https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Ele ... 914&sr=8-3

The starter solenoid grounds through the base to the fender, so that rusty base is enough reason to replace it. "S" activates the solenoid coil via the base to ground, and 5 ohms does not seem unusual. I would not declare victory yet. Replace your bad parts, fix the melted wires and test with your multimeter. The carburetor-related wires still seem a more likely problem to me. Possible you will find multiple issues, but only one cause the melted wires.

Be careful with that distirbutor/module connector. The plastic gets weak and brittle. If the connector crumbles in your hand, time to replace. The distributor side comes with a new reluctor coil, and you can find the harness side connectors somewhere.

https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17734

[Swbtwo]

The bulkhead connector is likely ok. That brown goop is dielectric grease, used to prevent corrosion. They all seem to be that color. If you want to clean it, use some very mild solvent and a soft brush. Nothing that could damage the plastic. Then put it back together with new grease (available on amazon).

The distributor connectors and ignition module connections are often green. This seems to be a universal issue with these distributors. I suggest contact cleaner and a flux brush or a chip brush; you can get a big packet of brushes at Harbor Freight, or more expensively at the big box store. Lots of different contact cleaner products online. I use this one for general cleaning - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF ... UTF8&psc=1 - it used to be a lot cheaper. Deoxit is really good, but expensive - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxI ... LVEU&psc=1 MG is said to be good too https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Ele ... 914&sr=8-3

The starter solenoid grounds through the base to the fender, so that rusty base is enough reason to replace it. "S" activates the solenoid coil via the base to ground, and 5 ohms does not seem unusual. I would not declare victory yet. Replace your bad parts, fix the melted wires and test with your multimeter. The carburetor-related wires still seem a more likely problem to me. Possible you will find multiple issues, but only one cause the melted wires.

Be careful with that distirbutor/module connector. The plastic gets weak and brittle. If the connector crumbles in your hand, time to replace. The distributor side comes with a new reluctor coil, and you can find the harness side connectors somewhere.

https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17734

First let me thank you again for the enormous amount of help. Without it I’d be dead in the water.

Further investigation revealed a number of other damaged wires, mostly as you suspected carburetor related.

A few more questions.

1) the solenoid ohm readings jumped from zero to 35 and all over the map. I hope replacing this resolves something.

2) the ECU for the carb is missing. Given that, what should/can I do with the carb related wiring? If I go with the redline kit for the Weber what happens to all of them? (I know you’ve mentioned FI, but I’d just as soon at mess with an electric fuel pump installation).

The damaged wires are

a) to the back up/neutral safety switch
b) idle speed
c) choke feed
d) TES connector melted
e) 9A ground missing

3) Finally my old pal, 13B, the resistance wire (20 awg, 1.35). It’s 56” long, fwiw. The splices used by the factory are clamped. Is there a smart way to open and replace them when replacing the standard wires attached to it?

Also, a problem of my own making. I cut it. How to i splice it?

Finally, I’ve isolated where the cover for it is damaged. It’s not much in length, can I use pieces of shrink wrap to recover it?

[tgreese]

1) Don't worry about the solenoid - just replace it. They are a common failure anyway. Standard (SMS) SS581. Suggest you drill out the rivets and look inside for how they work. You can often revive them by taking them apart and burnishing the contacts / flipping the disk over. Take it apart, examine, throw in trash.

My point was that 5 ohms translates to 2.4 amps at 12V, and 29 watts heating. Seems pretty reasonable for a solenoid coil that's used intermittently.

2) Dunno about the carb wires. My limited understanding - the carb "ECU" runs the stepper motor on the idle jet that makes the 258 somehow emission compliant in this era. You can bypass the whole thing following a procedure termed "the Nutter bypass," which was worked out by a well-known Jeeper John Nutter. Most of the info re the bypass will be in the CJ/YJ forums, not in the FSJ forums. There are many more of these CJ/YJ Jeeps out there than like your Jeep.

I'd pretty much have to trace it out from what's online, the TSM description, and the wiring diagram. Also, it would help to have the Jeep in front of me. I don't think there's any alternative but to sit down with the sources and figure it out, on paper if needed.

3) Regarding the butt splices, you'll just have to pry them open with whatever you have on hand. Small pliers, screwdrivers, ice pick, whatever. Pretty sure Jeep does not solder these, but they would have used a high-quality crimping tool that closes the splices much tighter than you can do by hand, at least with the crimping pliers shadetree's typically have.

The splices are uninsulated butt (aka barrel) connectors. In the past I have sourced them from Mouser Electronics, but my latest source has been Del City https://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insul ... 0.h_801871

I put some discussion here - http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.ph ... st-1571304 - though you may need to join EarlyCJ5.com to see the embedded pictures.

JMO - I'd abandon the nichrome wire and get the ballast resistor noted above. That way you can completely rewire this part of the harness with all-new wire and connectors. The ballast resistor is a factory part for a '70s Dodge - I sold plenty of them back in the day. Typically what you'd get if you asked for a generic ballast resistor. Nothing wrong with using the separate resistor - the resistance wire probably lowers production cost and speeds assembly on the line. Or maybe somebody has the complete wire for you from a wreck or part-out.

Putting a splice in the middle of the resistance wires raises some problems. First, you need a small enough butt connector so that it fits tightly on the small-gauge single strand wire. You need a lot of pressure to get a good crimp on this hard, single-strand wire, and it might come apart in service. Plus with the connector on there, you can't slip the tubing over the whole length. Heat shrink would be ok. I strongly recommend 3M adhesive lined heat shrink for these application. Available online lots of places, including Mouser and Parts Express.

[Swbtwo]

Just about finished with the engine wiring harness. I replaced the resistor wire to the distributor that was troubling me with a 12 gauge running to a new distributor. New Weber carb on order, so the entire computer system is being removed. I removed the manifold heater in the process, leaving the 10 gauge wire it was spliced to running alone. It’s 12B.




Also, what’s that symbol?

EDIT: obviously it terminates at the alternator.

[tgreese]

Connects to the alternator.



The top half shows the factory wiring. Bottom half is for an ammeter bypass.

[Swbtwo]

Connects to the alternator.

I must have been editing that post, trying to downplay my ignorance, as you posted that.

Is that symbol related to the alternator?

[tgreese]

It's a symbol for a stud. There is a legend on page W-6. On the diagram, they are positioned "schematically" near the device picture or lable.