Suggestions - body removal for prep and paint

[Laredo Matt]

I think I'm going to go ahead and paint the Laredo and would prefer to lift the body of the frame vs. paint on frame.

I've never done it before (take the body off or paint a car) and am working from a home garage. Any suggestions on the best way to do this?

I've read Strode's thread (more than one) on his 82' Laredo. He built a body dolly out of wood.

https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewto ... 9&start=20

I could perhaps do the same but getting the body lifted up and off is going to be a challenge. I don't have a motor lift like that. Aside from buying one, does anyone have another suggestion to lift the body?

thanks, matt

[Hobart]

I haven't done a body-off resto on my Wagoneer, but I can share how I did it on a '59 Bel Air 2-door and a '58 Chevy wagon. I'm attaching the best pictures I could find. I built two wood supports, that were exactly wide enough to sit on 4-wheeled car dollies. My thought was that it would make working under the cars on the floorpans easier and also make getting the body off the frame easier, since the body would be supported from outside of the body. So, I build the wood supports higher in the back, and on the '58 I just laid a 4x4 across the supports and let the car's wheelwells sit on the 4x4 in the back and I let the car's rockers sit on the 4x4 in the front. Did pretty much the same on the '59, but in the back needed to work on the wheelwells, so instead of setting the car on the wheelwells I used a piece of 2" box-tube and welded a couple of pieces of tubing to the main cross-piece and the top of them I tacked to the body-mount areas of the car's floor, in the area of the wheel well. Hope this explanation and the pictures are able to be understood.

In order to lift the body, I used floor-jacks (and blocks if needed) under the frame to raise the cars to the height needed to get the body just higher than the dolly-supports and set jackstands under the outside-ends of the 4x4 supports or whatever area of the body I could reach. Then I disassembled the suspension, so I could lower the frame down far enough that I could roll it out from under the body on floor-jacks and/or dollies - I had to remove the rear suspension in order for the frame to be low enough to clear the body in the back of the car, where the frame kicks-up over the rear axle. I was able to do the body removals and reinstallations by myself, just using floor jacks, jackstands and various wood blocks - and beer .

Hope this isn't too confusing and helps a bit. Good luck!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CBD5GKmc42VVG6GH8

[Laredo Matt]

I haven't done a body-off resto on my Wagoneer, but I can share how I did it on a '59 Bel Air 2-door and a '58 Chevy wagon. I'm attaching the best pictures I could find. I built two wood supports, that were exactly wide enough to sit on 4-wheeled car dollies. My thought was that it would make working under the cars on the floorpans easier and also make getting the body off the frame easier, since the body would be supported from outside of the body. So, I build the wood supports higher in the back, and on the '58 I just laid a 4x4 across the supports and let the car's wheelwells sit on the 4x4 in the back and I let the car's rockers sit on the 4x4 in the front. Did pretty much the same on the '59, but in the back needed to work on the wheelwells, so instead of setting the car on the wheelwells I used a piece of 2" box-tube and welded a couple of pieces of tubing to the main cross-piece and the top of them I tacked to the body-mount areas of the car's floor, in the area of the wheel well. Hope this explanation and the pictures are able to be understood.

In order to lift the body, I used floor-jacks (and blocks if needed) under the frame to raise the cars to the height needed to get the body just higher than the dolly-supports and set jackstands under the outside-ends of the 4x4 supports or whatever area of the body I could reach. Then I disassembled the suspension, so I could lower the frame down far enough that I could roll it out from under the body on floor-jacks and/or dollies - I had to remove the rear suspension in order for the frame to be low enough to clear the body in the back of the car, where the frame kicks-up over the rear axle. I was able to do the body removals and reinstallations by myself, just using floor jacks, jackstands and various wood blocks - and beer .

Hope this isn't too confusing and helps a bit. Good luck!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CBD5GKmc42VVG6GH8

I was able to follow (confirmed by looking at the pictures).

Assume I'm going to have to come up with some sort of similar approach but not sure exactly what yet given space in my garage. I still have a little bit of time to plan for it ... I know I at least have enough beer !

[threepiece]

The ability to work under is hugely important especially for us older folks. Sandblasting, welding or anything that requires safety gear covering your head is trouble with many of the body dollies I see people make.

My style of choice is a strongback type. This is best made with steel but I suppose wood too. The basic idea is a single beam (4x6) lengthwise with crossmembers on each end. When viewed from above it will look like the cross section of an I beam. Any wheels should be attached to the ends of the crossmembers then vertical struts above the wheels, one at each corner. If braced properly you will have a sturdy dolly that offers maximum working clearance and won’t take up much space.

[threepiece]

I thought about the strongback design a bit more. A fellow could use steel pipe for the vertical stanchion. A hole could be drilled in the wood crossmembers for the pipe to pass. A pipe flange could be attached to the bottom of the hole and a pipe inserted into the top and threaded into the flange below. These stanchions could be located where the body mounts are or anywhere one chooses on the body they are working on.

I have two body dollies of similar design made of steel. The stanchions can be moved along the length of the dolly at 5” intervals and the top ends have arms about 10” long that swing around 360 degrees. The ends of the arms have threaded rods that can be adjusted to different heights. On the ends of these rods are different attachments available to engage holes in the body or saddles for places that require nestling. With this I can accommodate virtually any frame or body.

[threepiece]

Here https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/sh ... 906&page=2. Is a link to a chassis jig I made. It is of the strongback design. Not exactly a dolly but it might give you an idea.

Here. https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/sh ... hp?t=43451 Is a link for the body dolly I made. Probably too elaborate for the one time restoration but someone might glean an idea or two from it.

[Laredo Matt]

Those are some serious jigs. Nice.

I'm only planning to do this once so wood that can be torn down afterward is attractive. I do like the idea of the pipe and the ability to reposition the vertical stanchions as you work to provide better access.

[1978J10REDWHITE]

A very interesting read here.
Quite a strategy how to take apart repair-fix, reassemble etc.
I would copy most what you did.
Take a few hundred pix of how it looks complete before and some notes for final assembly.
Now we have the mobile trailers, that can come over and media Blast the entire things.
The frame, body, inside bumper, inside doors, engine-suspension pieces and every metal piece on the entire truck.
All in a few hours making it perfect for the next phases.
Reasonably priced to get done and wonderful time saver!!

[Laredo Matt]

I'll definitely take pictures for sure.

I've looked at chain hoists, electric hoists etc. to lift and move the body but really don't have a means to mount and use in my garage. At least I'm not willing to go to the effort of cutting in the ceiling to insure it is structurally mounted to bare the weight.

I think I'll get 5 or 6 buddies over to help lift and place on the body dolly. Old school but seems like the best approach given space and tools I have available.

That will be after I figure out how to get the remaining 6 body mount bolts out. All rusted and spinning in place with no access. Have a few ideas but am gonna start a new post and see how others have done it to make sure I take the best approach ie. least effort.

I'd love to have a mobile trailer out to sand blast but the have limited options here locally. the few shops I've called that advertise it have not returned calls.