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I just paid $300 for an OEM rear nozzle to replace the one that was ripped off by a car wash (lesson learned). Has anyone tried to 3D print one of these? It just seems that they cant be that technical.
I just went to the junkyard and got a nozzle from a dodge durango and siliconed it on and it works great.. Then i found an oem one on a salvage yard Jeep but it had a broken mounting tab. Even when siliconed on it didnt work as good as the durango one.
Youre insaine for spending 300$ on one lol... Im honestly suprised no one has made replacement nozzles yet considering 90% of the 89-91s dont have them anymore.
I wouldnt mind mailing mine to you sirrus if you can get them made. But can you get the nozzle portion correct to where it sprays ? Printing a peice of olastic is one thing but what about the insides where it fans the water out ? Would you still be able to print it with a broken tab ? The tab is the same in the back as the front. So you should be able to copy the good clip and itll work.
So yea if you think you can get them made ill let you borrow mine. In exchange i wouldnt mind one you print with a good mounting tab. Im sure you can make a pretty penny on these nozzles
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
So far I’ve only seen couple blurry pics on the internet, but I agree that sprayer part is going to be tricky, especially to get it spraying in the right direction/angle. Tabs might be tricky too, it’s way easier to get those flexible tabs with injection molding rather than printing. But that’s just thinking out loud lol
Since Durango nozzle works better and I suppose they all look more or less the same, wouldn’t it make sense to make some sort of adapter instead - to be able to fix Durango nozzle in a wagoneer without rtv or silicone? Or maybe some other readily available nozzle?
As for no one making replacements for wagoneers - as you said, it’s only been on couple last years so there’s not a lot of those vehicles compared to other years.
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors
1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE 2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy
UPDATE: The cost to have a functional nozzle 3-D scanned (3 separate pieces) is $600. Once that is done, the printing process is pretty cheap. Its roughly $30 for the two plastic pieces. There is a rubber bottom gasket which can be 3D printed as well but I dont have a cost on that. The fact is that you could do the two plastic pieces and then just use silicone for the rubber bottom and you'd be done. If there were enough people who wanted an authentic looking nozzle, it would be worth the $600 to scan the piece to a CAD file, but I'm just not sure how many purists are out there vs those who just want a functional nozzle off a Durango for $20. In any case, I have a $300 original one for myself that will be putting on my rig, but if this post generates enough interest to cover the costs of the scanning, I will be happy to use mine as a template and see how to help the rest of you. Cheers.
Out of curiosity as a 3D printing is my hobby - how are they going to do water passage inside? Print or drill?
That also applies to scanning as I believe you can’t disassemble the nozzle - how are they going to get the angle of the sprayer from outside? I never used 3D scanning, so interested how that works
And what material is used for printing (I guess ABS)? Gasket should be the easiest part to print from TPU or something like it
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors
1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE 2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy
The nozzle actually comes apart into 3 pieces. Once its disassembled, they spray some sort of "inspection spray". Then they manually scan and create a "mesh file" whatever that is. They are confident (and I dont pay until its right) that they can even adjust the sprayer opening so that the metal piece is not needed to make the spray go the right way.
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I think they will be able to get it right especially since they’re using SLS (laser sintering) for printing. That’s far superior in accuracy to FDM technology that’s commonly used by hobbyists. Another common technology is SLA, it gives more precision but material choice is limited (that’s from home user perspective as well).
I understand why scanning is so expensive - they have to do a lot of tweaking and polishing on a mesh model as it comes out of scanner.
What surprised me is that the actual print (using professional equipment and great accuracy) is really affordable. That means if you have the 3D model of what you need it’s very easy to get it manufactured
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors
1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 FOR SALE 2021 JLU Willys EcoDiesel - new shiny toy
I had to work on my nozzle, as it was clogged. I removed it, soaked it in WD-40 and blew it out with an air compressor. The spray part on my 89 G Wag is a small ball joint and can be aimed to hit the correct part of the windshield. I don't know how you could print that and have it work.
Has anyone had to install the rear washer from the nozzle all the way down to the connection in the quarter panel? What's involved? What is the path? It appears that the connection turns and goes under the floor in the cab instead of up through the d pillar.
When I pulled mine, I removed the panel inside the right rear quarter panel that covers the speaker and the jack. My washer was missing the cosmetic cover over the rear washer sprayer. I believe that I pulled the sprayer out from the d-pillar. The hose can then be removed from the sprayer. The hose travels down inside the d-pillar if I remember correctly. I think that there is a one way check valve in the middle of that hose. The hose went to the bottom of the right rear quarter panel and I am not sure where it goes from there. I fished a wire down from the washer hole through the d-pillar to the inside of the quarter panel to grab the hose and pull it back up after I had cleared the line and the sprayer with compressed air.