Bad "New" Carb?

[craigtone]

I just picked up a 1989 Grand Wagoneer. The previous 2 owners spent $1900 at various garages trying to get it running. It has a brand new fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel lines, NAPA carb and fuel tank cleaned. It would not idle when I got it and would die when warm. The vacuum lines were a clusterf* and EGR was already disabled. I removed ALL emissions, set base timing (12BTDC) and idle (500/600) and still idles lousy. I tried adjusting idle mixture but it does not work according to the FSM. The odd thing is vac advance was never hooked up. I hooked it up to the ported vac on the carb and it died. I checked the ported port on the carb and it is full vacuum at idle! I am thinking the "new" NAPA carb they put on it is junk? Isn't ported vacuum zero at idle and climbs slowly as it accelerates?

Double-checked and all vac ports plugged so not a vacuum leak. Wanted to rule that out first since that is what it felt like.

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[rocklaurence]

Fuel, Air and Spark... If you have those on a good motor, it will run. What do the plugs look like? Is there fuel in the carb' and does the ACC pump push fuel in when activated. Do you have consistent and good spark? The Modules are notorious for going bad.
If you have those 3 items and it still doesn't run, then look at compression.

[sirrus]

Also check for air leaks around base if the carb, those spacers and gaskets can crack


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[dodgerammit]

Glad to see you joined here. I'm the guy who recommended this place. Check out a youtube channel called thunderhead289. He has some really good clips of carb adjustments, idle settings, timing, etc. Lots of good info. My guess is with pulling ported vacuum at idle, the throttle plates aren't properly positioned on the fuel transfer slots.

[Stuka]

Even with all vacuum ports checked, you could have a vacuum leak. The easy test is to take a spray that is flammable (I use brake clean) and spray it around every connection, and especially around the base of the carb and throttle shafts. If the idle goes up at all, you found a leak. I would start with this. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected, you don't need it for this stage.

Also be sure to spray around the brake booster. Another thing to check is does the idle change when the brakes are depressed.

[letank]

what a nice FSJ, as said above, basic simple check first for non or poor idling:

Is the fuel filter return hose at 12 o'clock, meaning it is in the top position

Pop the top of the carb, and check for crap at the bottom of the fuel bowl... it could have sucked some of the charcoal bits... and while in there check for the jets siwe ... 55 or 56 for seal level, 53 of higher altitude. I bought a project a few years ago and after fixing all the bad issues, after warm up on the test run... it was not holding idle in drive... yes there was a intake leak at the carb base... and then found that the jets were 50... also the distributor connectors are notorious for getting a bit oxydized... not too sure if 87 has the weatherpack connectors or not... here are the duraspark typical connectors



and some issues



weatherpack installed