Parking brake pedal doesnt kick up fully ?

[candymancan]

I just finished all the work on my Jeep. Still have the oassenger body mounts.. but ive been at it 2 weeks im done lol.

Adjusted the brakes. It brakes great. Parking brake cable was really loose so i had to tighten the main cables by the transmission. It clicks down and holds the jeep from rolling back or foward but not so well if i tap the gas. But it does stop if i tap and let go.


However when i pull the release lever. It pops up half way and then the rest of the way the pedal is loose and wobbly. I can grab it and wiggle it up and down about 2 inchs. Because of this the parking brake light stays on too. It is releasing i think it does roll foward and back doesnt feel lile its grabbing.. and its drives great. But that dang pedal jist flops up and down 2 inch keeping the brake light on

Any ideas why its doing this ? Prior to all this work itd pop up fully slammed back up all the way.

[lkmarsh]

It is quite common for every spring in the pedal mechanism to break.

[candymancan]

Where is the spring ? In the foot pedal ?

[letank]

there is a spring in the brake pedal , you can try to clean and oil it a bit
but the cable has to be tight as well, too much looseness and it will slack off... the pedal was holding up by itself, but not with the cable, a visual inspection revealed that the sheath of the front cable was broken in one the passage way by the frame

[candymancan]

the cable itself is fine. But that weird metal wrap around the cable on mine is broken. Where it comes outa the frame.

Here isa pic. This is what mine looked like when i took the gas tank off when i first started fixing my frame. But the cable worked fine prior and the pedal yanked up fully fine. Does this metal wrap affect the cable at all ? I dont see how. Because the actual cable inside this is fine. And it worked before all this.

What sheath are you talking about ? Can you show me a picture please. Because the way youre talking is weird like your copy and pasting from something ?


The cable is tight.. ive tightened the nut on the Y part of the cable by the transmission like 3 inchs... any tighter and i cant even push the pedal down

[candymancan]

I dont think the cable is releasing fully. I think that might be the issue. I went to look at the pedal and there is like 1.2 inch of the tip of the cable sticking out of its groove meaning the cable either has too much slack or it isnt releasing fully. I grabbed the cable down where i was working and wiggled it and the Jeep moved 1.2 an inch you know when you put the parking brake on when you put the Jeep in park and its being held by the parking brake and not the transmission pin.


So i think its sticking somewhere not releasing. I wonder if its sticking in the drums or inside the cable itself somewhere ?? But even after i did that it still has slack in the pedal.. because if i push the oedal by hand and watch it pull the cable up but then i release the pedal i can see the cable moving back down very very slowely like its hung up or something.

Could it simoly because my cable is still too lose and needs tightend more ?? I mean how much do i gatta tighten this cable.. i feel like im stretching it by doing this because i tightend the drivers side by like 2 or 3 inchs.. and the passenger side by an inch or so with the long threaded poles underneeth by the tranny

Uhg i hate parking brakes. I hope i dont have to remove the gas tank or something again.

[candymancan]

Ya im grabb8ng the cables on both side and pulling them manually to watch. The passenger side returns. The drivers side doesnt. I have to help it by pushing it.

The cable squeekes in its sheath too like its dry and stuck

[tgreese]

Did you replace both sides?

If the one cable is rusted away, I would not expect the other two cables to work very well.

[candymancan]

There is only two cables after the main one.... I never replaced anything. It was working fine prior to me working on my Jeeps frame. The sheath just protects the cable it doesnt affect the cable any other way. But something has changed since i put the Jeep back together. Its like the cable is getting bound up in the sheath now suddenly or the spring in the drum doesnt habe enough tension to do it. But based on me manually moving the cable by the gas tank it feels like its bound up in the sheath. Im trying to figure out how this happend when i did nothing to the cable but disconnect it and move it away from the frame

If i step on or grab the cable by the wheel and wiggle it, It then releases. Its like sticking or something.

[tgreese]

Yes, I understand. There is a center cable and the two wheel cables. You posted a picture of a rusted cable, and I though you had replaced it. I would have routinely.

The return springs in the brakes should be sufficient to put the wheel cables back to their at-rest position. Fairly sure there should be a long coil spring at the rear of the center cable that helps to return the cables to their at-rest position. I think there is a big watch spring in the pedal that helps to lift the pedal back, but it won't be strong enough to pull back against stuck cables.

If the cables don't go back on their own, you need to refurb the brakes, replace the cables, or both. If the front cable is as rusty as the one you showed earlier, I would replace that too. The new wheel cables for my J20 were plastic sheathed material and lined with slippery hard plastic. Very nice.

[letank]

the cable itself is fine. But that weird metal wrap around the cable on mine is broken. Where it comes outa the frame.

The cable is tight.. ive tightened the nut on the Y part of the cable by the transmission like 3 inchs... any tighter and i cant even push the pedal down

that metal wrap around damage- what I called the sheath- is an indication that the inside could -could- be compromised, I had the same issues, cannot find a clear picture, but in my case it solved my lack of locking

MRGbrakecableDSL.jpg

[candymancan]

Yea i was thinking i guess i need to replace the cable on that side and maybe the springs in the drum and stuff. The kit is only 8$ for them.

Just not looking foward to moving the gas tank again.... uhg. And i still dont get why it worked fine for 4 tears but after i disconnected it it stopped. I looked where the fray is inside and the cable itself seemed fine. Im try pb blaster on the cable there and see if i can free it up maybe.. I doubt it.. but yea.

Just another project to add to my list. Im so wore out after 2 weeks of cutting and grinding and welding. Only put on 1 of my 2 inch add s leafs and it gave me only 3.4 of an inch lift and after that and rustys blowing me off giving me no explanation i just wanna stop working on it. Gatta call the bank today and do a charge back. Im not paying 200$ for a crap 3/4 inch lift and to have some guy blow me off on the phone.

Real bummer

[letank]

bummer with the lift!
Yes try the pb blaster and spray with some as well around the emergency brake handle mechanism , but some plastic cover to prevent staining the carpet and kick panel, it gets pretty much pack with a lot of sticky dust.
I waited 1 year to replace the cable... but mine was from the handle to the splitter , I did not have to deal with the drum mechanism, which is a pain. IIRC you need to compress a ring on the back up plate of the drum , I would use a hose clamp to achieve the extraction at the drum site.

Yes take a break, you have done an amazing job with your frame repair

[candymancan]

I just did another spring today. This front one. I gained drum roll........... 0.00 inchs. How is that even possible ??? What the hell is rustys selling ??