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I have disassembled and have a few questions.
I was going to take case to radiator shop for cleaning. And the shifter housing as well.
1. One of the holes for the shift rails, in the shifter case does not have a bushing. Should I replace all the bushings? If not can they go in the “oven” at the rad shop?
2. And is there a source for the bushings? Can I install them without a press?
3. The plug in the transfer case for the detent rod has no slot for screwdriver. Just leave it alone?
4. In the shifter case the fulcrum ball retainer and pin is split in 2. Run it as is or try to get welded?
5. One clip on torsion spring retainer rod is missing. Source or other name for these?
Thanks,
Sid
Hi - 1) I doubt you will find a replacement bushing today unless it's some kind of universal part adapted to this use. The bushing is a Jeep PN 940208 - a search shows nothing. 2) Nope, no source. 3) You mean where the interlock pill goes? I'd just leave it alone if it moves freely. The plug is not threaded but pressed in. 4) Look for a used part that is not broken. Jeep PN 940676 5) It's a Jeep PN 940565. No direct replacement source today. I'd look for something generic to replace it, or get another one from a parts unit. McMasterCarr has clips like that https://www.mcmaster.com/retaining-ring ... e~push-on/ or you could drill a hole in the end and put a pin through it.
JMO - I would approach this differently. These shifters are not held in high regard. I would think you could obtain a few parts units and put together a good working one using parts from all. I would also think that some elbow grease, solvent and wire brushes would be plenty effective without any possibly destructive oven or chemical baths.
The shift rod seals are available. Possibly these come in your rebuild kit. Jeep PN A974.
These transfer cases will leak. Suggest you read on this site https://www.google.com/search?source=hp ... case+leaks about leaks and the Dana 18. The Dana 20 is similar in this regard, and stopping leaks in a D20 will require the same strategies. Seal the shims, seal the splines, seal the bolt holes. Double seals on the yokes. Other stuff that I don't recall.
Also would help to add your general location to your sig and profile. This may generate suggestions about where to find parts and offers of the pieces you need.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Tgreese thanks for your help. I spent days scrubbing, cleaning and scrubbing some more. Making progress. McMaster had both the bronze bearings and rod retaining clips
I’m now putting together the front output assembly. The rear cup/race is loose enough in the case that it will dislodge if shaft is bumped. With shims and rear bearing cover there is no play by feel(I don’t have a dial indicator). Is that a problem? Thanks again, you can tell I have alot to learn.
Yes these transfer cases are leakers extrordinares! . The intermediate shafts have no provision for any type of sealing . I see some that do not leak there and others that do . Do not use a cork pan gasket and straighten pan bolt holes too . I would use a sealer on the tcase to adapter gasket myself as well . J&W Jeep here in Antelope CA has parts and pieces . He may have that broken shift ball base you need . Another thing to look for is there are shims you use to tighten up that shifter ball base . The shims go under that base plate allowing you to get a snug fit .These shifters as many here are aware , feel all loose and sloppy . A disconcerting thing for me for sure .You may not need but 1 or 2 shims under that plate get a tighter fit. My finalthought is this : The shifter removal is seemingly easy upon disassembly , however getting it back in place and holding back that spring can be a super pain in The butt !! It will require patience when you get to this point to master the shifter install . Heck it may go right in first try but letting you know it can fight you some .
Been many years since I've worked on one of these.
No, it's not ok. If you replaced anything, you need to measure the end play. It could be that the new parts need fewer shims. Assembly with the wrong clearance would be bad.
If the bearing race is loose in the case, I'd think that's bad. But it's not a particularly tight fit.
You need a dial indicator to set the bearing cap and front output shaft clearance. You need to measure. Follow the TSM. Additional shims are available if you need more. Ideally you'd buy or borrow a quality dial indicator and stand, but at the least I would buy an inexpensive tool like this to set the clearance. https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Adjustm ... 954&sr=8-6
Harbor Freight has a similar magnetic base and indicator.
Contrary to above, I recall the D20 has an intermediate shaft o-ring seal. Maybe there are some examples that are missing that.
It would be helpful to put your location in your signature.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Some may have a seal , not all do . It's not a high point leak in Any case as shaft fits pretty precise .
As for bearings you don't need a dial indicator for setting your bearing clearance . You do not want any play . Your bearings should have a small amount of pre load as does all Timkin tapered roller bearings . I suggest an inch lb.torque wrench and rotate the u joint flange and check the torque required to rotate the flange and check the rotational torque as you turn it . You should have resistance as you do the test . 10 to 15 inch lbs . A dial indicator won't show any movement as there should not be any. Those h
Bearing cups do bump out like you've found . The shims as noted above are plentiful to get the correct preload. Too tight , add a shim , and too loose remove a shim and recheck .
I found the shifter plate in my parts box for your Dana 20. I Did not realize I had one with the hardware . The 4 EXTERNAL SPLINE bolts and lock washers that go with it .
I know this is an old thread but new to the FSJ net. So I just bought a 1967 Jeepster Commando and am told by PO the the transfer walks out of 2w high. He was told that the shift lever torsion spring need replacing. Dose that sound right? I can find one in any of the parts kits. Advice for the new guy?
