Power Source to Steering Column: 76 J20

[66stepside]

It’s been a series of cleaning contact points on all the electrical wires to the starter, battery, solenoid, and then replacing the broken ignition switch on the column. That’s the good news.

The bad news is that there is no power supply to the steering column itself. In fact there is no power to anything except a direct line to an after market gage.

What wire is the power source to the column: The thicker red one, or the red wire with the white stripe on the 76 column?



All the fuses check out in good condition, too.





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[tgreese]

Look here - http://oljeep.com/gw/76_tsm/Section22.pdf The wiring diagram in the complete '76 TSM is a PDF and you can zoom it. Page 15. There is a 12 ga red wire for power that comes from splice B, which is the big power splice under the dash. Leaving the switch is a 14 ga red w/tr wire that looks like it is the switched ignition power.

[66stepside]

Look here - http://oljeep.com/gw/76_tsm/Section22.pdf The wiring diagram in the complete '76 TSM is a PDF and you can zoom it. Page 15. There is a 12 ga red wire for power that comes from splice B, which is the big power splice under the dash. Leaving the switch is a 14 ga red w/tr wire that looks like it is the switched ignition power.

Thank you!


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[fsj454]

I have a 1975 harness and a 75 column on the bench right now checking things out for a member that needs . Mine is glass fusses .I do not now the cut off year for glass fusses . If yours is glass and you need pictures I can text you . This is a uncut factory harness rare .

[66stepside]

I have a 1975 harness and a 75 column on the bench right now checking things out for a member that needs . Mine is glass fusses .I do not now the cut off year for glass fusses . If yours is glass and you need pictures I can text you . This is a uncut factory harness rare .

Yeah, I think 75-76 year is a big change.


Mine does have the glass fuses, so I think I have an early 76.

My harness appears to be in tact, BUT it looks like someone unplugged the firewall connection to run additional wires to the electric brake set up.

I’m thinking the problem is that the connections at the firewall are not tight enough to run power to anything. There are no lights, no power to anything under the dash.

I’ll DM you if I need pics- thank you for that!


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[66stepside]

Speaking of pics, here are a few shots of my problem:



Note in the above pic, in the upper right corner, there is a missing male connector to the three pronged connector. Not sure why they chalked the plug.



On the fuse box, nothing is hot with the key in any position: off/locked, run, start, or accessory positions checked.

Edit:

All fuses are in good working order.


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[78 WIDETRAC]

How are the fusable links?

[fsj454]

Under hood pictures , That round plug to the right of the fuse block is where the power comes into the ignition . And it looks like it overheated and burned I would start there . I will look I mite have that under hood harness

[66stepside]

Under hood pictures , That round plug to the right of the fuse block is where the power comes into the ignition . And it looks like it overheated and burned I would start there . I will look I mite have that under hood harness

Ok, good to know.

I supplied power to this yellow wire (circled in pic). I now have horn, wipers, headlights and incoming power to the steering column. With the key turned to the on position, I have power to the coil as well, but no start.

I’m leaning toward the neutral safety switch as the problem. Any way to ground out/neutralize it temporarily to see if this is the problem?


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[66stepside]

I double checked everything and wasn’t getting the right power to the “S” terminal, traced that wire to a funky splice and cut the other wire off- she now turns over with the key!

Now to see if I can get her running.


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[fsj454]

Rephrase . The ignition power is on the right half of fuse block under hood .. I took some good pictures .Harness is out on the bench with engine harness connected to fuse block .pm me TY