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There was a thread I read a while back about a guy who rebuilt the plastic backing of the arm rest fabricating sheet metal to the plastic. He did a really nice job and I’m guessing had a lot of hours in it. Thought I’d share my fix. I plugged the screw hole on the outside with a papertowel and with the door side facing up filled the plastic side back up with JB WELD and redrilled the holes for the screws. Have about 20 minutes into the complete fix. If the plastic is broken as mine was just JB weld the piss out of it. That’s all.
Thanks! I am going to be doing that soon, and this seems like a great hack!
First FSJ. 1989 GW, AMC360 W/ HEI AND Edelbrock single 4bbl. Was told the engine was rebuilt... starting to question that after the horrible wiring I found.
Bondo would be a lot cheaper considering the amount needed and I thnk would plenty strong for that application.
Could even use the glass fiber filled stuff which would prolly be stronger than the Epoxy.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Bondo is polyester resin filled with talc, and is made for easy working and sanding. The talc does not give it much strength. Talc also makes it permeable to water vapor, so you can't use it on steel unless it's sealed completely with a top coat. Duraglas is short glass fibers in polyester putty, and seals steel from moisture. There is also putty with long fibers, like Evercoat Kittyhair https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-868-Kit ... ref=sr_1_3 - this stuff is used for Q&D rust repair a lot. IMO it's kinda ok for filling rust-outs if you media blast to remove the rust scale first.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Or just go on ebay and buy a replacement that isnt broken for like 30$ lol.
Ive sold dozens of them. They sell like hot cakes. Sadly i havent found a wagoneer in like a year.. I was ons rool too found like 8 of em in like 2 years was making bank on the parts lol
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
hanger wrote:There was a thread I read a while back about a guy who rebuilt the plastic backing of the arm rest fabricating sheet metal to the plastic. He did a really nice job and I’m guessing had a lot of hours in it. Thought I’d share my fix. I plugged the screw hole on the outside with a papertowel and with the door side facing up filled the plastic side back up with JB WELD and redrilled the holes for the screws. Have about 20 minutes into the complete fix. If the plastic is broken as mine was just JB weld the piss out of it. That’s all.
Thinking of just putting a little bit on, but from what you're saying sounds like the big tube is necessary.
Any great solutions out there the chromed plastic on the front?
I’ve been wondering the same thing. I did remove the plastic wood grain fairly easily, was think maybe chrome spray paint. I wouldn’t normally use that but for an area like that it shouldn’t see to much abuse it might work.
Also as far as filling he holes... I haven’t tried it but I’ve used an epoxy that comes in regular caulking tubes designed for anchoring bolts into concrete, Home Depot and Lowe’s have it in the concrete/mortar section. They have several types, one is not much more viscous than water used for crack repairs but the one for anchor bolts is fairly thick and set pretty quick.
There is a do it yourself chrome product that’s designed for plastic but it’s pricey and requires spray equipment. I’ll try to find a link.
hanger wrote:There was a thread I read a while back about a guy who rebuilt the plastic backing of the arm rest fabricating sheet metal to the plastic. He did a really nice job and I’m guessing had a lot of hours in it. Thought I’d share my fix. I plugged the screw hole on the outside with a papertowel and with the door side facing up filled the plastic side back up with JB WELD and redrilled the holes for the screws. Have about 20 minutes into the complete fix. If the plastic is broken as mine was just JB weld the piss out of it. That’s all.
Thinking of just putting a little bit on, but from what you're saying sounds like the big tube is necessary.
Any great solutions out there the chromed plastic on the front?
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Yes. I used a big tube and plugged the hole on the other side with a paper towel and filled the plastic side (as shown in your pic) with JBWELD. Fill it all up cause you don’t wanna have to do it twice and it’s inexpensive anyway. Amazon has it for $13.00.