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"It is a unit with the rear defrost switch. Pull both of the end caps off the ends, unplug the wiring from the back (you'll need to remove the AC duct underneath), then one screw holds the switches in from underneath. They pull out from the backside of the dash."
There are actually two screws on the bottom that hold it in place for 73-85 and there were two different switches although they look very similar. From 79-85 there is supposed to be a ground that goes to the switch and there is a ground strap inside of the switch. From 73-78 there is no ground going to the switch because the tailgate window motor was grounded through the body instead of being grounded through the switch. Also, like said above the 86-91 switch was different and the Kaiser era models had a different switch.
Thanks. I’m pretty sure the switch in the tailgate is the problem. It was working to open and close, but I suspect it is not making contact in the neutral position. I think that will render the front switch inoperable.
While I had the tailgate access panel open, I noticed these wires that were not connected. Would they have been for an optional window defogger?
Yes, the single black and single orange wire would plug into the connectors coming off of the window itself. The three blade connector would plug into the defogger timer in the tailgate.
And it is very common for the keyed tailgate switch to go bad. The case will start to warp over the years and it will cause the toggle part of the switch to either get stuck or completely come out of its spot.
I have helped a number of my customers in the install of the BJ's switches and they have all loved them. I haven't personally installed one in one of my own vehicles as of this moment, but I like to fabricate items and be a little different. Going with a switch like the one from BJ's would be a much simpler way to do it and I understand that. A few other things to think about when you are replacing that switch would be checking the in tailgate window channels and the upper window channels. Check the tailgate window lifter bar condition and the seal. The tailgate window inner and outer wipes and tailgate body seal. And since you are having to take everything apart, it is a good time to clean and re-grease your tailgate window regulator and to inspect the tailgate window motor. I am sure I am forgetting something, but when you are changing that switch out, it is definitely the best time to do any required maintenance or preventative maintenance in the tailgate.
As it happens, the problem with the front switch was due to the back switch. Once I removed the back switch, I could see the plastic lever had broken. It would still rock back and forth, but two metal pins had come loose inside and presumably did not make contact when in the neutral position.
Replacing the rear switch did indeed enable the front one to work.
Removing the glass… that was another matter. I couldn’t access one of the screws holding the motor assembly down without completely removing the glass - the gear would cover it in every position unless the glass was in the way. I broke the admittedly brittle external window wipe trying to get it back in. Yuck.