valve train ticking noise

[tara]

Hi guys,

new small noise coming from the driver side upper engine. sounds like a light valve train ticking noise. a lifter is collapsing ? Cam lobe flattened ? bent pushrod ? i have to remove the cover to see, but any idea of the more commons valve train ticking noise origin ?

thanks

Tara

[will e]

exhaust leak?

Take a hose and use it as a stethoscope to listen around where the noise is coming from.

[Hspencer]

I had one of those with my 88. I took the valve cover off since the gasket needed replacing anyway, the #3 intake rocker was a little loose. I pulled both intake and exhaust rockers and the intake pushrod was a hair shorter than the exhaust (I’m sure someone with more engine experience than me knows why it was worn more than the others). I replaced both and no more noise. Probably a short term fix but I’ll take it for now.


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[44bz]

Make sure to check the rearmost head bolt when you pull the cover. It’s hollow to allow oil up into the valve train and can clog easily.


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[will e]

Make sure to check the rearmost head bolt when you pull the cover. It’s hollow to allow oil up into the valve train and can clog easily.


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Okay, he has a 327. Had me there for a second. So my exhaust leak idea may not as readily apply as it does to a 360/401.

[tara]

Make sure to check the rearmost head bolt when you pull the cover. It’s hollow to allow oil up into the valve train and can clog easily.


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thanks !!!!

i just saw this post on an AMC forum :

"Probably the most common failure on a 327.

I forget exactly how the passages are drilled, but the oil does come up through or around the rear most bolt in the rocker shafts and then flows through the hollow shafts to lubrication holes under each rocker arm and out through lube holes in the rocker arms, where it splatters around and does it's job.

It is very common for gray sludge to build up in the bolt passage, but even more common for the gray matter to build up in the shafts themselves and completely plug them, requiring complete shaft disassembly. There are plugs in the ends of the shafts that can be removed.

Gray sludge is usually caused by moisture from condensation, meaning lots of cold starts and short runs. Infrequent oil changes don't help. I think the flow up there is somewhat restricted anyway, especially with cold or thick oil (No more 20W50). AMC recommended 30W and 10W30 for a reason.

Unfortunately as I said, wiping the tip of the rocker arm is an extremely common failure in all 250-287-327's, and no new shafts or rockers are being made. NOS (factory reject) and remanufactured will run about $300 a set. If you have a good machinist, he can build up the faces and grind them down. You can also buy up a crap load of old rockers and pick the best ones. "

[tara]

https://vimeo.com/367362448

i removed the rocker covers and had a look at them, cannot hear clearly the noise...
thanks for watching

[44bz]

I would still pull that rearmost rocker bolt on either side and make sure theyre clear. Are any of the push rods loose? I had ticking awhile back and it turned out to be a clogged rear bolt and the ticking cane from the pushrod hogging out the rocker.


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[tara]

I would still pull that rearmost rocker bolt on either side and make sure theyre clear. Are any of the push rods loose? I had ticking awhile back and it turned out to be a clogged rear bolt and the ticking cane from the pushrod hogging out the rocker.


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i removed this rocker bolt, and it was perfectly clean.i noticed too that some pushrods turn easily between fingers and other are very tight

[tara]

i m pretty sure that the noise is almost gone after 2 or 3 minutes ride, but comes back when you stop the car for a while
any suggestions ?

[44bz]

I don’t have any. My 327 started ticking since you posted and I can’t figure out why. I’ve got plenty of oil under both valve covers. Mine only does it now when accelerating and only at certain rpms...


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[tara]

I don’t have any. My 327 started ticking since you posted and I can’t figure out why. I’ve got plenty of oil under both valve covers. Mine only does it now when accelerating and only at certain rpms...


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Mine is the same, i can hear the noise only when accelerating and specially when cold

[tara]

Hi all,

i m making an update : the soft ticking noise is noticeable under acceleration when engine is cold. any suggestion ??? i drives me nuts

[tara]

a very good mechanic guy told me that it is not a valve noise but an exhaust leak noise.
sorry to you all for having loosing your time, have a good WE

[44bz]

a very good mechanic guy told me that it is not a valve noise but an exhaust leak noise.
sorry to you all for having loosing your time, have a good WE

I was starting to think the same thing about mine.


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[tara]

i have located the leak easily. do you think there is any risk to break a bolt when removing the exhaust manifold ? they look so old and rusted...
i notice too that the damper valves are still installed, should be removed ? i don't even know if they work

[44bz]

I would heat them up first before turning them. You could remove the heat riser if not being used - mine doesn’t have it.


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[tara]

you mean remove them with engine hot ?

[44bz]

you mean remove them with engine hot ?

Or heat the bolt with a torch. I’ve had good luck with that.


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[ShagWagon]

PB blaster or penetrating spray a day or two before usually helps. Try to tighten it if it won’t loosen. Get the oil into it anyway possible. And heat but do t catch fire lol.

I usually replace with grade 8 bolts and a crush gasket. Oil the bolts and use a torque wrench To evenly tighten on the bolts. 12lb, then 22lb then your final torque which was 35ft lbs on a 360 for the crush gasket.