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When I bought my truck I was told it has a rebuilt rear end with a locker. It also has locking hubs on the rear. They are huge.......4.25"....... Ford maybe?
Anyways the guy I got off was told by po to drive it with passengers hub unlocked and drivers locked?
I've tried it both ways.....pass locked, drivers unlocked and vise versa. I've tried both locked and both unlocked.
Only difference I can see is with both locked it will howl tires going around corners.
That part that really confuses me is it still being able to drive with both unlocked? That doesn't make sense.........
Any ideas?
Thanks
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
That's what I was thinking. Maybe has a slug in that side.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Yeah the pictures aren't much help, no perspective. The hubs look to short & there are no knuckles under the unit so how could they work?? I really don't know what kind of goofiness that is but it both hubs were in the unlocked position you should not be able to drive it. it would freewheel. maybe if they are functional & I don't believe they are. They maybe for towing??? I don't think their functional.
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
Never seen it done, but read about making a D44 full floating using front D44 spindles, hubs, etc and longer shafts with splines and no flange. It was a way to make flat towing your small jeep easier. Also keeps the wheel on and the brakes working if a shaft breaks.
That's what I was thinking.....unlock for towing but it still drives unlocked.
Would removing rear diff cover tell me anythink? At least I'd know what kinda locker I guess......
And yes.....full floater would make sense but this one isn't.
I wish I knew po and what he was thinking......
Seems to me Warn made a full floater kit that included spindles that bolted on to the backing plate flanges.
I'd pull the hubs and a drum for a look.
Jack up both wheels and you should be able to tell by feel what it's got. Based on your description and the instructions you got my money's on a spool.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
There's a thread on Binder Planet about a Warn kit for Scout 44's. From that I think we may infer that the AMC 20 was not the only kit available; likely there was a Wag kit or maybe the guy adapted a Scout kit or used a Scout axle.
Open it up! Lets see more pics.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Lift each rear tire, unlock it and see if it turns freely. If not, pull the manual lock hub off the front of the hub and check to see why it doesn't release. No need to look at the locker during troubleshooting--unless your curious
rocklaurence wrote:Lift each rear tire, unlock it and see if it turns freely. If not, pull the manual lock hub off the front of the hub and check to see why it doesn't release. No need to look at the locker during troubleshooting--unless your curious
Pulling the cover is to see if it's a locker or a spool.
Jacking up each tires and unlocking them is a good idea to see if the hubs are working.
Personally j would never trust hubs on the rear axle of a truck like that.