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Michel, that is a good article, it explains things nicely. Yeah I need to go through and replace a lot of the vacuum lines as a whole, when I do so I'll figure out the best place to plumb it in, probably a t fitting as you mentioned unless I can figure out a 'cleaner' way to rout it. I am kinda picky on wires/hoses/vacuum lines running all over the place, so I am going to spend the day and mess up well established success. haha
Although 210* is not too hot, it is past the point of peak efficiency, new cars run that hot for emissions reasons. They run thermostats that high for that reason, and with a proper cooling system it should stay at the regulated temperature (Thermostat setting) within a few degrees through thick and thin. With a low load 'high speed' (Basically not idling or low speeds) the engine should run on the thermostat setting, within a few degrees. This is where I am having my issues.
Running down my mental check list of what it could be's:
-Blocked/damaged radiator
-damaged water pump (Impeller damaged)
-Improper air flow through radiator, like Kenne Mentioned, where at a certain speed the air coming into the radiator is more than what is able to evacuate from under the hood. This could be caused by a few things to my understanding: a lack of a path for the air to escape (Like under engine mats and air diffusers), a mechanical fan that is spinning at whatever RPM allowing X amount of air through when >X is trying to go through from the vehicles speed (Usually with mechanical fans and not clutch fans), or restrictive fan shrouds (That cover the whole radiator and have too small of fan openings, many electric fan shrouds have little flaps that will open up at speed but close up when not going fast enough so that the fans pull all their air through the radiator core).
The problem is discovering what/which is the pending issue.
EDIT: I drove the Wagoneer to work today with my vacuum advance unhooked, just for S&G's. Other than getting poor...er fuel mileage it ran nearly the same and got just as hot, about 210* maybe 215*.
Jay
1975 Jeep Wagoneer: 350 SBC, TH400, Q/T, D44's 3.54:1's. Hell Creek 4" lift with BFG KO2 33x10.5s.
1988 Jeep Wrangler: 305 SBC, TBI, 700r4, NP231c with SYE, 9" w/ Detroit and 4.11:1, 5.25" of lift, 31's. Done up as a Jurassic Park Jeep (Her's)
Can't underestimate the value of a good clean radiator...
I passed smog here in Sacramento with the 76 401 Wagoneer but it ran VERY warm (220+) in the 100+ degree heat. I switched everything back to manifold vacuum, reset the base timing and it ran much better, but was still too hot. The radiator didn't leak, but was showing some white corrosion in the tubes so I ordered a new replacement from Eagle Radiator (My friend Ben) up in Diamond Springs.
I made no other changes besides using fresh coolant and immediately the 401 ran at a max of 195F sitting in traffic on I-80 or running 75Mph down Hwy 99 in the heat of the day.
I suspect the old rad was just not very efficient any longer.
Something to ponder anyway.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
Tatsadasayago wrote:Can't underestimate the value of a good clean radiator
X2, and the cheap approach is to clean the system with some Presto--- or other brand chemical for neglected cooling system. I did this on both wagoneers, and the amount of rusty water that is coming out was mindboggling, especially that the 74 has been mine for over 30 years and I only used distilled water, in fact, before I used the chemical flush, when I redid the intake manifold gasket, there was some serious sludge in the back. It took about 50 gallons of garden hose flush to obtain clear water, and yes the average temp dipped from half to 1/4.
Cataldo wrote:Yes good idea on the radiator flush. It looks fairly new but flushing it never hurts
The radiator can be new, but the flush works on all the other parts of the cooling system. I was talking to a retired mechanic today, and he uses some detergent used to clean walls, not TSP, it a non sudding detergent....
Before the days of the EPA, mechanics used oxalic acid, followed by a neutralizing wash, to clean cooling systems. Prestone sold a two-part kit for this. This material is no longer available as radiator flush, but you can still buy the materials and follow the procedure.
"Prestone used to make a cleaner for GM P/N 12346500.
It was also sold under Prestone P/N AS100 Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner
Here is the GM TSB and Instructions #99-06-02-012D (Online or at a GM dealer)
It is not made anymore but these are the components.
9 dry oz of Oxalic Acid (DAP Wood Bleach)
2 dry oz of Sodium Carbonate (Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda)"
Then the TSB instructions follow.
Usual cautions apply. Oxalic acid can be dangerous if mishandled, so read the Wikipedia page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid and its attached MSDS about it. Dispose of the waste water conscientiously. I would gather the rinse water, neutralize it, and pour it down the drain. Don't let it drain on your lawn or garden or drain into the storm drain.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I wondered if the two part flush was still available.
It works well because oxalic acid reduces, in the chemical sense, the rust back to iron. In doing so the rust shrinks since a rust molecule larger than an iron molecule and tends to break loose.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Huh! I like this idea a lot! Just need to figure out a proper disposal plan. I have yet to actually use a flush kit, always just used a water hose and pressure washer.
Jay
1975 Jeep Wagoneer: 350 SBC, TH400, Q/T, D44's 3.54:1's. Hell Creek 4" lift with BFG KO2 33x10.5s.
1988 Jeep Wrangler: 305 SBC, TBI, 700r4, NP231c with SYE, 9" w/ Detroit and 4.11:1, 5.25" of lift, 31's. Done up as a Jurassic Park Jeep (Her's)