We finally got the 69 Gladiator on the road and some of our worst fears maybe coming true. The T-15 is banging going into 2nd gear and there seems to be a growling coming out of either the tranny or the T-case. The used 232 that we installed has a tick and oil consumption is a little high.
My son and I are thinking maybe that we should just bite the bullet and install a 5.7 GM motor mated to a SM465 transmission. We will retain the D20 by using a Novak adapter. Novak also sells the necessary motor mounts. It is nice to keep the old iron running but the GM parts are plentiful and pretty inexpensive and my son should have reliable truck into the future..
Looking for input from those who have done the swap and from those who may have an alternative. My biggest concern is the wiring.
GM transplant
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69gladiator
Topic author - Posts: 233
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 6:10 pm
- Location: stratford,ct
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tgreese
- Posts: 7197
- Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:31 am
- Location: Medford MA USA
Re: GM transplant
Is this the original transmission? Should be a T-14, not a T-15. The J-truck with a six got the T-14 through 1974. Only the V8s got the T-15, before 1975.
Rebuilding the Borg-Warner 3-speeds is not difficult. Neither is rebuilding the Dana 20, but I expect it's the T-1x needs a new front main bearing (noise), and new blocking rings (gear clash).
Does the noise go away when you press the clutch? In all gears? With the transfer case in neutral and running through the gears?
The main issue with rebuilding the T-1x is marking or photographing or taking notes about everything so you put it back together with the right thickness snap rings, the synchro dogs the right way round, all the little stuff back where it should be. There are a lot of little parts, but it all fits together just one way.
You could get a rebuilt T-1x from Herm http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com - he also sells parts, puts together his own rebuild kits from selected quality parts, and is very talkative on the phone, I hear. Novak also sells quality rebuild kits.
Do you know how to double-clutch? Or try matching speeds shifting into second. Seems like 2nd is always the first blocking ring to wear out, due to enthusiastic downshifting for compression braking on the highway. If you match speeds, it should go in smooth even if the blocking rings are totally gone.
Rebuilding the Borg-Warner 3-speeds is not difficult. Neither is rebuilding the Dana 20, but I expect it's the T-1x needs a new front main bearing (noise), and new blocking rings (gear clash).
Does the noise go away when you press the clutch? In all gears? With the transfer case in neutral and running through the gears?
The main issue with rebuilding the T-1x is marking or photographing or taking notes about everything so you put it back together with the right thickness snap rings, the synchro dogs the right way round, all the little stuff back where it should be. There are a lot of little parts, but it all fits together just one way.
You could get a rebuilt T-1x from Herm http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com - he also sells parts, puts together his own rebuild kits from selected quality parts, and is very talkative on the phone, I hear. Novak also sells quality rebuild kits.
Do you know how to double-clutch? Or try matching speeds shifting into second. Seems like 2nd is always the first blocking ring to wear out, due to enthusiastic downshifting for compression braking on the highway. If you match speeds, it should go in smooth even if the blocking rings are totally gone.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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69gladiator
Topic author - Posts: 233
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 6:10 pm
- Location: stratford,ct
Re: GM transplant
My bad it is a T-14. I did try your suggestion with putting the T-case into neutral and shifting the tranny. I found that I couldn't get the t-case into neutral. I crawled under the truck and tapped the shift rod and got the t-case into neutral. I then shifted the tranny through the gears without any problems. The truck was then driven in 4 high and 4 low and the tranny shifted smoothly. The TSM shows that there are some springs in the box that the t-case shifter and shifter rods go into. These spring can break, which will prevent the T-case from shifting. I cant get the t-case into 2 H. Herm, has some of these boxes that are functioning properly for sale.
This post has gone from advise on a GM swap to t-case problem. No matter what we do, the D20 will still be in the picture so I have to figure out whats wrong with it.
This post has gone from advise on a GM swap to t-case problem. No matter what we do, the D20 will still be in the picture so I have to figure out whats wrong with it.