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Well guys, I know that I'm getting ready to open a can of worms here, but here goes. I am thinking about trying to get more traction and want opinions. Yea, I know. Opinions are like...... aww we all know. I was thinking about locking up my front axle. Seeing as I have locking hubs, street manners should be no real problem. Anywho, I know there are E-lockers, air lockers, auto locking diffs, limited slip units, the list could go on and on. I was thinking of either a mini-spool or even the dreaded Lincon Locker. (Done quite a few of those for street drags) I know you can get a mini from ebay for anywhere from like 30 bucks on out. I have never run one so I dont know how it would work out. Here in NC, we get very little snow, and when we do, its usually gone pretty quick, so I dont think that factors in much. Have any of y'all done this before?
If snow isn't an issue, then a front locker should be fine. But unless you want to go hydro steering, stay away from a spool up front. Selectable is best, as then you keep your turning radius in 4wd until you need the locker. It will also help save your axle shafts and axle joints to only lock it when needed.
Automatic lockers work ok, and do impact your steering, but not nearly as much as a spool.
Having run them all from Lincoln, Mini-Spools, electric, air, and most limited slips on both ends I finally settled on Powr-Loks front and rear for the usablility, cost and effectiveness. With new ones at half the price of an ARB and often dirt cheap used at wrecking yards, they are a nice option.
As Stuka mentioned, a locked front will cause your axle shafts to spin all the time and that will accelerate wear on not only your axle shafts, but also your U-joints and CV joints (If you have one). Selectable lockers are superb if you can afford them AND when they are working.
I chose the Powr-Loks because I wanted a positive lockup under power and an open diff when turning under light load. So far, I've not regretted my choice.
The differential is very similar to the unlocked quadra-trak viscious coupling but instead of spiral cones working against fluid to provide differentiation, the Powr-Lok uses a spider gear and ramp working against a strong spring. When I place my front tire against a boulder and apply throttle, the diff locks as the resistance increases. If I want the diff to lock say, in a mud hole or in the snow, I add some brakes to lock up then do my thing with the throttle.
A Mini-Spool for the Dana 44 is more like 60-120.00 and while cheaper than a full diff up front will not only break things eventually, but your rig's turning manners in the rocks, dirt, snow, sand and mud will be terrible...especially on any sort of side-hill or steep incline.
I used spools in drag racing too and for that they were superb, but I wouldn't even recommend one in the rear unless your rig is a dedicated and trailered off-road ride. I learned that lesson the hard way trying to tow my CJ on a wet highway with a full spooled FSJ Cherokee and the almost-crash still gives me goosebumps.
For what it's worth; I discovered that running an open diff in the front can act as a Anti-Stuck fuse that helped me avoid getting myself into a situation I couldn't get out of without a winch or another vehicle with a two strap. I wheel solo in 2WD Hi or Lo until I can't go any further, engage the front diff, get myself out, then back to 2WD. This has worked probably 90% of the time with the exceptions being mud holes, rivers/creeks, snow drifts and others where stopping would result in a good solid STUCK. For those, it's 4WD baby!
Jim
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
As far as welded up front diff; I pulled a sneaky back in my younger NO MONEY days with a hybrid of sorts for my wood cutting J-Truck.
I started with the complete open carrier and started laying small stick welder beads at the base of the V between the spider gears. I then ground the welds so the side gear would mesh but with quite a bit of resistance. In essence it was similar to stacking shims on the backside of the spiders but much tighter. When I thought the spiders were tight enough I used a torque wrench set to 100Lbs and turned the pinion with one axle shaft held in place. I kept adding filler welds and grinding/polishing until I had that 100 Lbs breakover on each axle.
My theory was pretty basic. 100Lbs torque at the pinion meant, to my primitive thinking (4.10 gears), that the tire would see roughly 400Lbs torque before the spider gear started to turn. After some cleanup and smoothing grinding I put the truck to work and it was two hard firewood seasons before the spiders got loose enough to require a re-weld.
I don't recommend this approach unless you are poor and/or want to tinker.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
Thanks guys. I really appreciate the input on this. Like I said earlier, I have done it for a street drag car. Have any of you had experience (good or bad) with Ox Lockers? They seem rather interesting in concept.
racerx12003r1 wrote:Thanks guys. I really appreciate the input on this. Like I said earlier, I have done it for a street drag car. Have any of you had experience (good or bad) with Ox Lockers? They seem rather interesting in concept.
I put Ox's on my in-law's Wrangler 3 years ago or so and they worked very well. Cable routing and adjustment seems to be the biggest reason for people having issues with them locking and unlocking.
Having two extra shifters cluttered up the interior on the YJ, but wouldn't be an issue in an FSJ with all that real estate on the trans hump.
The covers are stout and the big OX stands out
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation
racerx12003r1 wrote:Well guys, I know that I'm getting ready to open a can of worms here, but here goes. I am thinking about trying to get more traction and want opinions. Yea, I know. Opinions are like...... aww we all know. I was thinking about locking up my front axle. Seeing as I have locking hubs, street manners should be no real problem. Anywho, I know there are E-lockers, air lockers, auto locking diffs, limited slip units, the list could go on and on. I was thinking of either a mini-spool or even the dreaded Lincon Locker. (Done quite a few of those for street drags) I know you can get a mini from ebay for anywhere from like 30 bucks on out. I have never run one so I dont know how it would work out. Here in NC, we get very little snow, and when we do, its usually gone pretty quick, so I dont think that factors in much. Have any of y'all done this before?
So, with your hubs unlocked and your t-case in 2-hi, where's the impetus for turning your front driveshaft, front diff, front axle, and front tires? What's the problem with a spool or hard locker?
'73 J4000 'WOOD GO' 360, 2100 MC, T-18, D-20, 60-2 rear, D-44 closed knuckle front with Warn lock-o-Matics, Eaton E-lockers both, Pertronix module, AC, PS, Hydro-boost, AirLift bags front and rear, 33x15 Goodyear MTR's, Pacer 15x8 aluminum Bullet Holes, Summit line lock, 3rd brake light, tilt column from '77 Firebird, 12000 MileMarker on cradle, hitch receiver on both ends
Rod2 wrote:
So, with your hubs unlocked and your t-case in 2-hi, where's the impetus for turning your front driveshaft, front diff, front axle, and front tires? What's the problem with a spool or hard locker?
He won't be able to use 4wd for snow due to poor handling. And off-road he really should have hydro steer.
But in 2wd with hubs unlocked it will be unnoticeable.
Good point about the snow, which he rarely has; but if he has PS in good shape, and goes slowly off road, he can steer OK. I regularly lock my front axle, which essentially makes it a spool, in the Uwharrie forest and slowly negotiate the trails with no bind.
But NEVER in light snow nor ice.
So we're basically on the same page
'73 J4000 'WOOD GO' 360, 2100 MC, T-18, D-20, 60-2 rear, D-44 closed knuckle front with Warn lock-o-Matics, Eaton E-lockers both, Pertronix module, AC, PS, Hydro-boost, AirLift bags front and rear, 33x15 Goodyear MTR's, Pacer 15x8 aluminum Bullet Holes, Summit line lock, 3rd brake light, tilt column from '77 Firebird, 12000 MileMarker on cradle, hitch receiver on both ends
I was thinking about locking up my front axle. Seeing as I have locking hubs, street manners should be no real problem. Anywho, I know there are E-lockers, air lockers, auto locking diffs, limited slip units, the list could go on and on. I was thinking of either a mini-spool or even the dreaded Lincon Locker. (Done quite a few of those for street drags) I know you can get a mini from ebay for anywhere from like 30 bucks on out. I have never run one so I dont know how it would work out. Here in NC, we get very little snow, and when we do, its usually gone pretty quick, so I dont think that factors in much. Have any of y'all done this before? 
