"Alice"-'89 Grand Wag build & LS 5.3L swap

[XJChad]

Got the driveshafts back, they cut and balanced a rear shaft I had and made a new cv shaft for the front. Total cost was $400 for both shafts.

[XJChad]

I painted the tcase shifter housing, rattle can Rustoleum. Turned out pretty good IMO.

[XJChad]

I also ordered the Dakota Digital instrument panel, hopefully will start that next week.

[area52]

Any info on the fuel system? How close are the coil packs to the heater core?

thanks for all the info, helps me out alot.

[XJChad]

The coil packs are fairly close, but not touching. The oil dipstick tube barely touches the heater box. It is kind of a PIA to get to that spark plug and wire, and in fact I did it from the underside reaching up. I will try to take some pics tomorrow of the clearances and post them up on here.

I used a Spectra brand pump for the S10 Blazer 4.3L engine. I used Dorman stock replacement nylon fittings on the pump along with Dorman nylon fuel line. I used Dorman nylon to steel brass unions to connect the nylon fuel line to the steel line going into and coming out of the fuel filter. I also used the brass unions to go from the nylon fuel line to the stock GM fuel lines that run up to the fuel rails. When I pulled the donor motor I cut the stock fuel lines down on the frame, this way I had the factory lines for the length of the transmission along with the stock connection to the fuel rail.

The donor motor came from a late '99/'00 GMC pickup, so the fuel regulator is on the fuel injector rail on the engine. I also used Dorman nylon fuel line for the return fuel line back to the tank. I used Heat Shield Products protective sleeve to run the fuel lines through to help protect them from abrasion and heat. I anchored the lines to the frame using rubber covered loop type clamps.

If you go the nylon fuel line route it takes a little practice to get the nylon connections into the nylon fuel lines. The easiest way is to heat the end of the nylon fuel line with hot water. Only heat a section that is the same length as the barbed part of the fitting, or just a little less, otherwise it may kink on you. Heat the fuel line for several seconds in the water to make it soften up a little, lubricate the barbed end of the fitting and force the fitting into the fuel line (this is the tricky part). You only get one shot to heat the end of the fuel line and insert the fitting. If you don't get the fitting fully inserted you will more than likely have to cut off the line and start over.

To make it a little easier I used a steel line flaring tool to lightly clamp the fuel line into. I had the flaring clamp clamped in my vice and would hold the fitting in my hand. I would heat the end of the fuel line in the water, then quickly clamp it, lube the barbed fitting and insert it. After you do one or twice you get the hang of it. ***Do not try to heat the nylon line with a flame, this heats it way too fast and melts the tubing.*** Using hot water and the flaring tool clamp worked best for me.

On most of the swaps I have seen, most people use the Russell fittings and braided steel fuel line, and seems to work great. Using the Dorman nylon line is much cheaper, however I don't know how well it will hold up in the long run. I figured it was worth a shot to try and if I want to change to steel braided fuel line at a later time then I will.

[XJChad]

This is what I have thus far as a parts list and cost on my swap. I also switched over to hydro boost at the same time as the LS swap and I put new door seals, window wipes, and removed the interior, coated it with Eastwood rubberized coating, resealed the seams, and put down a layer of insulation. I still need to get the front seats redone, as well as the headliner and overhead console.

This could have been done a lot cheaper, and I replaced or purchased things that didn't really need to be replaced or changed, but it was one of those "while I'm here I might as well..." type deals. I'm planning on doing another swap on my '82 Cherokee Laredo, and I will definitely do it on a much smaller budget. BUT I plan on daily driving this thing for quite a while and I plan on towing ATV's and camping gear on road trips into the mountains, so I'd rather spend them money now, instead of when it breaks in the middle of a trip.

Component/Parts Cost $$$
Engine/tranny/xfercase w/comp/harness $900
NP241C trasfercase $225
(Purchased 2: 1st 241C w/32spline input $125. 2nd from CL for $75)
Sold NP 246 xfercase to recover some costs - $300
Radiator Griffin 8-00009-LS $212 Amazon
Radiator bracket mods $60
Electric 2 stage fan w/shroud (Lincoln Mark VIII) $95 ebay
Elect fan relay/wiring harness kit (Hollister Road-Houston TX $70
Dakota Digital Dash ($495 + $20 s/h) 11/29/15 $515.00 BJs Offroad
Align It-timing cover and rear main seal/cover alignment tools (Sac City Corvette) $70

FUEL Parts
’97-’01 S10 Blazer gas tank GM18D $94.98 ebay
Fuel tank straps ST122 $26.98 ebay
Fuel pump- Spectra Premium SP414M $104.97 ebay
Dorman 3/8 nylon fuel line # 800-072 $35.00 Amzn
Dorman 800-082 3/8 nylon fitting at fuel pump $7.00 Amzn
Dorman 800-135 3/8 brass compression union (nylon to steel) $5.00 Amzn
Dorman 800-035 3/8 steel to nylon barb 2-pack $9.00 Amzn
Dorman 800-223 3/8 nylon to steel compression union 5-pack $9.00 Amzn
Dorman 5/16 nylon fuel line # 800-071 $30.00 Amzn
Dorman 5/16 quick connect 800-080 (connect line to fuel pump) $8.00 Amzn
Dorman 800-222 5/16 brass compression union 5-pack $13.00 Amzn
Heatshield Products #203124 fuel line protective heat shield 25ft $16.00 Amzn
Wix 33481-Fuel filter $11.00 Amzn
Spectra air filter reusable cone type 4” tube $26.00 Amzn
4” air intake couplers, straight, & 45 deg $25.00 Amzn/ebay
EGR Manifold plug $15.00 eBay
Oil pan/oil level sensor plug $10.00 eBay

Exhaust Parts
LPP-LaMonte Perf LS shorty headers 11/2/14 $250.00
Magnaflow muffler $100.00 Amzn
Complete exhaust $

Hydro boost parts
Hydro boost-Brake Booster-Cardone 52-7333 $111.96 eBay
Master Cylinder-Cardone 10-2534 $35.94 eBay
Hydro boost in-line filter-Magna Pure 20-0038F $14.45 eBay
1” adapter plate-Sterlingworth16 for ’95 Chevy Astro w/HB $30.00
Bushing 5/8” to 7/16” (Bunting Bearing PN: AA627-4 or B0040GK91A $3.84 +3.29 eBay
“T” fitting 3/8” brass barbed $7.00 eBay
Pressure hose: HB to Gear- Gates/AC Delco 364690 $21.92 Amzn
Pressure hose: Pump to HB- Gates 365950 $14.97 Amzn
Return hose: HB to Reservoir 3/8” $9.00 autozone
Return hose: Gear to cooler 3/8” ” “
Return hose: Cooler to Reservoir 3/8” ” “
HB to MC pushrod, retainer & spring & coil spring(Elliott-Custom Power Brake) $30

Equus Oil/Temp metric Adapters #9848 $9.99 eBay
Upper & lower radiator coolant hoses (cut down & reused GM hoses) $0
Heater hoses already had new hose at shop $0
Misc hose clamps $5.00 Napa

Gaskets/Internal & External Parts replaced:
Oil pan OS30693R $41.76 Amzn
Valve covers VS50504R $13.99 Amzn
Rear main set BS40640 $21.60 Amzn
Intake manifold MS98016T $45.67 Amzn
Lifter valley MS92465 $16.83 Amzn
Timing Cover TCS45993 $35.99 Amzn
Water Pump Gates 45005 $50.66 Amzn
Oil Pump Melling M295 $73.73
Timing set Cloyes C3210 $52.49 Amzn
Rubber freeze plug (EGR) $4.00 Napa
Knock sensor AC 213-3521 $14.00 Amxn
Knock sensor AC 213-3521 $34.71 Amzn
Massive-crank bolt 5/18 $26.94 ebay
Gates T-stat/housing $20.00 Amzn
ACDelco 41-110 Iridium $41.93 ebay
Plug wires AC Delco $48.00 ebay
Injector O-rings Felpro $10.00 Amzn
Throttle body gasket Felpro $5.00 Amzn
5qts cheap 10w30 oil $13.00
Fram oil filter PH3605 $4.00
Head gaskets: Felpro 9191PT (Summit Racing) $31.94 ebay
Head bolts: Felpro ES72173 (Summit Racing) $33.94 ebay
Hydraulic roller lifters: Sealed Power HT-2148 (73revordnal) $88.00 ebay
Valve Stem seals: Felpro SS70945 $21.99 autozone

Tranny, Transfercase & Axles
Trans pump seal NTL 4950 6/9 $3.99 ebay
Filter & Gasket Wix $18.00 ebay
Trans cooler lines-reused stock Jeep cooler & GM lines $0-
GM Tcase shifter & linkage $60.00 ebay
Trans mount for 4L60e $14.00 ebay
NP241 rebuild kit (BK241) large bearing (24mm) $80.00 ebay
New Gillys NP241 Case Saver $43.00 ebay
Trans cross member-stock Jeep FSJ $0- modified
Motive Gear 3.73s front & Rear ($145 ea) $290 Rustys
Driveshafts/yokes (front 30 3/16, rear 37 9/16”) $400 Driveshafts Inc
Dana 44 overhaul kit-pinion & carrier bearings, shims, nut & seals $160 Rustys
Locking Hubs-Mile Marker #104 Supreme $55.88 Amzn
Locking Hub Conversion Nut Kit-Mile Marker #95-32720 $24.41 Amzn
Rusty's Off-Road 4" lift

Wiring harness/PCM/Electronics
Wiring harness mod-LS1 Swap Shop-Coweta, OK Oct ‘14 picked up Nov ‘14 $300
ECM/PCM program-LS1 Swap Shop, Coweta, OK Oct ‘14 picked up Nov ‘14 $100

Motor mounts (homemade)
Omnix-Ada 18284.04 2” FSJ spring bushings 2”x2 15/16 long, & $17.03
Motor mount-LSx block plates Wisner Machine Works LLC (¼” slotted plates) $26 ebay
Motor mounts/shock tabs plasmathought1: (4- 2 ½ x2 ½), (4- 1 ¾), (8- 1 ½ x ¼”) $39 ebay

[XJChad]

Here are a few different pics of different angles of the passenger side clearance. The headers are very close to the bottom of the heater box and I plan on using header wrap, but I might make a thin heat metal shield also. I plan on wrapping the driver side header as well as part of the exhaust pipe since it is so close to the brake porportioning valve on the frame.

[ProTouring442]

Wow, that is close. I used DEI "Heat Screen" to protect the A/C evaporator box I installed in my build (goes in the same place as your heater box).

http://www.designengineering.com/catego ... eat-screen

[XJChad]

Ok I will look that up. I really dont want to use a header wrap if I can avoid it. From what I have read the wrap causes the header tubes to weaken and crack. Granted most of the failures I have read about were using a cheap header with thin metal and were running them at high rpm for extended periods of time.

[GaJeep94YJ]

Got any more info on the east woods floor covering?

Was that since to keep the sound down? If not what does it do?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[XJChad]

I purchased it straight from Eastwoods website. It is a rubberized coating that can be sprayed or brushed on. It comes in various sizes, I think I used a quart can and really it could have used another coat or two. The stuff is thinner than what I thought it would be but it still did the job.

Yes, I used it for a few reasons
1). To seal the floor. This Jeep had very little rust anywhere on it. The floor pans were in excellent shape with only a small amount of surface rust, so I sanded and prepped them and coated them with this stuff to help protect and preserve them.
2). To help deaden sound and to help insulate it a little.

I also used Eastwoods seam sealer on all the joints where there was factory sealer, like around the removable hump in the floor and where holes were cut for the shifters and to patch where the fuel tank access for the coffin tank was. This stuff is very thick and is brushed on and works great!

[XJChad]

I've had the Waggy to the point of starting and running for a month or so now, but have been working on all the small stuff, finishing up wiring, getting the driveshafts made and installed, shifter linkages, etc. At the same time as doing the motor swap I also pulled all the interior and have been working on putting it back in as well as replacing all the door seals, window wipes, window channel felt and trying to get the windows and power locks to function properly.

I have all new flex racks and have installed them on the driver side front and rear door windows and cleaned up the switches and connections. The front one works, but hits a few slow spots, the rear one just flat out doesn't have enough umph when it hits a certain spot and has to be helped a little. I am working on the passenger side doors now, and I am debating on trying to find a newer style motor/regulator assembly from a different vehicle and see if they can be adapted to work with the Jeep window.

I have read a few small/short posts, either on here or IFSJA, about either using late 90's-91 & up motor/regulator, or possibly the set up from a Grand Cherokee. BUT, I have yet to find any posts where someone did it successfully and actually know what year and model the donor parts came out of.?? If anyone has this info I would be very appreciative, otherwise I think I am going to start with trying to find parts from an XJ and ZJ and see if either of them would work. I also looked at motor/regulators online for Dodge Durango's and I think they may possibly work also?? I figure I will start with salvage yard parts or from someone parting one out, just to check fitment and function and then go from there.

Aside from dealing with the windows and seals I did drive the Waggy down the road today and around the area around my shop quite a bit. I even used it to pull my 18 foot trailer around and back it into my shop, which was a pretty cool accomplishment in my book!

I also got the electric fan wired up, which I purchased a relay kit from Hollister Road for $69.00, which was basically a plug and play. His setup uses three relays and a fuse and connects to the fan 1/fan 2 or hi/low trigger wires from the GM harness. From my research on different forums, I found a lot of good reviews about his fan relay kit and decided to go with it, I'm glad I did!

[XJChad]

Getting closer! Dakota digital gauges are in and wired. I still have to set the speedo calibration but that will be a week or 2 out.

At first I really wanted to keep the stock look of the GW cluster, but after putting these in I am really starting to like them.

Still working on the window motors and regulators. Ive got a 1992 XJ in the back of my shop so i pulled the passenger front window motor and regulator out of it.

The plug is the same but I had to pull the pins out of the connector and switch them to get the motor to raise the window when the switch is pressed up.

Ive done some bending on the regulator and screw drive track and i think I just about have it figured out. I ha ent taken pics of that stuff yet, but I will get some when I do the final fit and install.







Here are a few motor pics.

[ShawnQ]

Chad,

Can you give any details on which wires you used from your Jeep engine harness (the bulkhead connector), and how you set them up?

I'm in the process of mating my harness and testing all of it before I move forward. I have the three large red wires that I believe go to battery +. I have the large orange wire that had a 3-way splice and went to manifold heater, carb choke, etc (labeled Emissions). I also have the large yellow wire that was for the ignition and alt. Lastly, I have a green wire that I believe should go straight to the 5.3 starter.

Any input is appreciated. Hope you are still going strong on yours!

[XJChad]

Chad,

Can you give any details on which wires you used from your Jeep engine harness (the bulkhead connector), and how you set them up?

I'm in the process of mating my harness and testing all of it before I move forward. I have the three large red wires that I believe go to battery +. I have the large orange wire that had a 3-way splice and went to manifold heater, carb choke, etc (labeled Emissions). I also have the large yellow wire that was for the ignition and alt. Lastly, I have a green wire that I believe should go straight to the 5.3 starter.

Any input is appreciated. Hope you are still going strong on yours!

Hi Shawn, I saw your post on Facebook but didnt want to reply as I cant remember how I wired mine. I have been on vacation the past few weeks but I am back home now. I will be down at my shop tomorrow working on a few different things and i will take a few pics of the wiring if i can get to it. I have it written down in a folder also and will see what i can send you from that.
It took me several days to sort through all the wiring, using a stock jeep diagram and tester/meter. I also removed the excess wires from my fuse block/bulkhead. I did the wiring while I had the fron clip removed, that way I could sit on the tire and keep everything somewhat in place.
It will probably be easier for me to contact you via Facebook tomorrow, but I will pull up you post and comment there first. I use the tapatalk app on my phone for this forum so I dont get my notifications like I do with FB.

[ShawnQ]

Thanks! You can subscribe to the post/turn on Tapatalk notifications if you want...

I appreciate the help! I'll be at work tomorrow but I'll see it the next day

[GaJeep94YJ]

There's only three wires, red, yellow, red with white stripe.

But I can't remember which was which

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[ShawnQ]

I don't have a red/white...but I'd imagine that is ignition feed

[HeavyMetalThunder_81]

I just want to say that this has to be one of the better (clean) LS swaps I've seen. Nice work.

[XJChad]

I just want to say that this has to be one of the better (clean) LS swaps I've seen. Nice work.

Thanks! It has been slow going throughout this swap/build. I also took on several other projects during the course of this build, so it took even longer. I still have to get the a/c plumbed and working and regear the axles, then i should be set for a while.